#51
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Re: My first
hey chance, just a thought- if you are going to go with hard plastic you might want to try a thin acrylic like Barrett or ez2cy windows. the 3m tape that they use to seal them is some good stuff and depending on design you can more than likely have them made to zip out if you like. ive seen them and they are really nice- a lot of people will use the hard on the forward and soft on the side curtains. (which i know you wont need. ) down here and points south it is pretty important to get that air flowing and ive got the same or less space than you? - she looks sweet. craig
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"Lifes too short to own an ugly boat" |
#52
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Re: My first
I have the lightest smoke gray Chance. Are you going with the Black frame's? I think they make the window's look much better. The silver look's cheaper to me.
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#53
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Re: My first
Yup, black frames it is with clear glass. The templates went out today. I tried to call them today just to firm everything up but the were closed. My bulkhead thickness is around 5/8 or 11/16. I told them to go with 11/16 as I figured slightly bigger was better than being too small. Warthog, how long did it take to get your windows? Installation looks pretty easy, is it?? Thanks
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#54
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Re: My first
Seem's like it was about 6 week's. I can't really remember now.
Oh yes be prepared for the surprize. [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] They packed the window's into a custom crate and shipped them. There was a COD charge on the shipping. |
#55
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Re: My first
Hey guys, I posted this question before but here it is again. I am currently waiting on an estimate for rewiring the whole boat. Keeping in mind that i have all the gauges, rocker switches, and new bilge pump with float what would be a worst case scenario price wise to rewire her. Also keep in mind that the console has to tilt forward. also I asked him to include in the estimate the price to put in the hydrolic lines to the helm and steering cable. So assuming I will need some fancy shmancy hydro lines and throttle linkage so she tilts plus the wiring, how much $$ do you guys figure to do the whole thing stem to stern. Thanks for any ideas.
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#56
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Re: My first
Quote:
Think of the hydraulic lines on something like a backhoe they articulate constantly in a wide range of motion... the lines are fixed before and after and bridge the pivot point with hose. The throttle and shift cables ... Similar circumstance. Plus there are some real good cables available that will allow the bends and turns. I just put a set on the boat that are pretty nice ... but not cheap As for cost ... Someone doing it for you will not be cheap , little done on a boat is cheap. Can't say what it will cost but I've personally already spent several hundred on a couple spools of wire and a breaker panel...much as warthog has suggested. then Add labor if you dont do the wiring... good connectors and good wire, fuse panels, switches, etc etc ... it adds up WAY to fast. |
#57
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Re: My first
thanks scott, in no way am i trying to be cheap, i am just trying to get a ball park as i am still waiting for the estimate. The thing is, not having a ball park ideas is holding up me moving forward with other things that require decent money such as new electronics. Lets just say worst case scenario. are we thinking 2k or 6k?
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#58
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Re: My first
That was my friends boat. Pat Dixon lives
around the corner from me, its good to see her again |
#59
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Re: My first
Quote:
I think your best bet is to get a couple estimates ...For instance I put a new ignition / wiring harness in the boat for the engine. Harness cost $140 and if the marina pulled it through and hooked it up their rate was $85 and hour (min 1 hr) .... I certainly would hope it isn't much more than your lower number ... It all will depend on how much work is done. But again I have no idea what a real number would be ... Geography (NE vs. SE) alone will play a role in the cost factor. |
#60
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Re: My first
thanks scott, i didn't mean to imply that you were calling me cheap. I know you didn't mean that. Thanks for the idea. Just so I can maybe get a figure he is the whole thing. There is no gauges, electronics, rockerswitches, battery switch, helm, or throttle in her right now. I do however have all this stuff. So the work i need done is all old wiring from engine, bilge, lights, fuel tanks, evertying comes out. Then all new goes in, battery cables, all the above switches, helm, throttl, gauges, fish finder, gps, vhf, new wiring everywhere. It should not be that time consuming I would think, as everthing is very accessible. All i need rewired is from batteries to battery switch, breakers, gauges, 3 electronics, fuel tanks, nav lights, 1 overhead light, and trim tabs. If i had even the slightest clue about boat electricity I would try it. But I don't. Thanks for the come back guys
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