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#51
11-15-2005, 04:15 AM
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Re: Bigshrimpin - nice find !!
No Problem Bill!! A stainless rail design like this one (for the transom might be simplest/cheapest way prevent MOB
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#52
11-15-2005, 11:35 AM
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Re: Nick / others- interesting alternative -
What about using one of the hydraulic jack plates with the built in setback...would that allow you to make the transom higher? I know most outboards you can adjust the tilt limiter so as long as you can achieve all of your trim settings you could limit the tilt so that it does not hit the transom and then use the jack plate to raise the motor to provide clearance. Addtionally you have potential performance enhancements avaialbe by using the jack plate.
__________________
Moesly 1969 20 CC & Potter 1978 23 CC (23 in storage awaiting rebuild)
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#53
11-16-2005, 06:50 PM
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Yo Nick - stern options -
did you catch riffraff's 20 SF pix in the photos page, and Trayders in the repairs page?
riffraff's 20 SF appears to have the same "medium wide" stern notch as yours - check how he elevated the seat boxes. I'm kinda groovin on Trayders build up off the existing splashwell - his appeared to also have the "narrow" splashwell. more thoughts !!! and a question - hydraulic steering - looks like, new, it's about a $500 - $600 investment? anyone have some good info on this? I'd have to convert to hydraulic from my current Teleflex, if I were to go with a shorty bracket. thanks Bill
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#54
11-16-2005, 08:19 PM
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Re: Yo Bill - stern options -
I did see them and was waiting for you reply! [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
Trayders and Riffraff's is what we are talking! They look great and depends on your personal taste. I like the way Riffy kept the original top of stern boxes to keep with the classic look of the original floor. Nice touch in my opinion! If you plan to replace or raise the floor like Trayders and others, you can go with any stlyle you prefer and config you prefer. Nice touch also! I do not have experiances with Jackplates. That deserves some thought also, good suggestion for performance and be able to raise transom heigher than 25" for a close to full transom look ... closest to the enclosed transom/full bracket option. I am not a glass man, but to raise the stern boxes on the original footprint should be the less expensive way to go. Agree maybe a little wider than necessary, but that is the same space i do not use today. Then the splashwell, leave it and be happy with the original verticle scuppers(not so bad? especially if mostly trailered?) or cut it out flush with floor and through transom with balltype scuppers. Raise the transom 25" min or more with jackplate option and squeeze/square the transom motor opening to the new stern box height. Hydraulic for $500 sounds like the Baystar system good up to 150 HP? I believe i paid close to $1K for the Seastar system .... i figured that paying it when i repowering would prevent finger pointing and $$ if something went wrong ... plus having the option of repowering over 150HP some day ... probably need a new system by then anyhow [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] Enough rambling ... get to work ... [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] - Nick
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#55
11-17-2005, 01:19 PM
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yeah, lots of good options appearing -
right now I'm really kinda leaning towards Trayders design...
Looked into the bracket thing - 9" setback bracket around $500, another $500 for a hydraulic steering rig - I can't see that I'll ever power this thing with more than 150hp, it just doesn't need it - but do I need to go that route - priorities are more towards a good trailer, a fixed VHF unit, in lieu of just the handheld, still got the original gas tank... but this time, instead of just rebuilding it as is, I want to get a plan worked out for now, and later, and as we both said, while the focus of the discussion is improving seaworthiness of the transom cut-out, neither of us has really had a problem with that - alot of which also includes being a smart boater, and knowing the capabilities of your boat - if ya got a big hole in your stern, don't be backin down in big waves, etc... Floors - the vertical scuppers seem to work fine for me, I can't see messin with that - again, my use will probably always be trailered, with the occasional moored overnight with me on it. I've paid for season slips before - ouch - that's why the downsize to trailerable. Probably will pull off a bunch of the pix we've accumulated here - would love to get more detailed pix of Trayders - and I'm thinkin with some corrugated cardboard, I could do some mocking up of options, over the winter, for the interior of the stern, maybe build up a plywood knockoff of that short bracket, and see what it really gives me for motor tilt/ transom raising measurements, etc... open to any and all thoughts or just take it and fish it the way it is - it is a great boat !!! Bill
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#56
11-17-2005, 01:37 PM
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Re: yeah, lots of good options appearing -
The config on my boat is a one off. There are no original parts. I used Nida-Core sheets and went at it...I too like the original non-skid on riffraffs config and the way he kept the deck throuh the splash well with the drains.
Mine has two drains at the aft corners before the transom boxes and they are routed under the deck though a one way valve and out a bronze seacock/thruhull. see here:  in side the two aft boxes is a pie plate gaining access to the seacocks (total overkill no reason for them) it works well but I would rather have riffraffs design. I am screwed if I need to replace any of my fittings I will need to remove the boxes in the stern [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img] what do they say? hindsight is 20/20
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#57
11-18-2005, 01:38 PM
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Trayder , CSN - et al....
Yeah - God bless that 20-20 hindsight thing !!!
fortuneately, too cold now to do any glassing outside, so got a good winter stretch to think about this, and tackle it in the spring. Things I know - gone is the dictum of "keep it original" I hate where the battery is located, stock, down in the starboard hatch, tucked up against the hull side - a pain in the butt to pull out just for winterization. The thru hull, down draft scuppers work just fine. Don't want to raise the floor - I like a deep boat, good freeboard inside and out, actually wish this was a little deeper (maybe I just need to get a 23 [img]/images/graemlins/crazy.gif[/img]) I got used to, but still don't like, the deep outboard notch, need/ want to cover my butt easy access for maintenance is always key, enable dual battery install, dual bilge pump install increase stowage if possible the baitwell can go - I'm not a live bait fisherman, anyways so, somewhere between the 20 MA, Riffy's rebuild, and yours, are the essential elements of the cure... So Nick - whadda ya waitin on - git to it, mon !! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Bill
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#58
11-18-2005, 01:45 PM
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Re: Trayder , CSN - et al....
Would you guys please stop changing the thread title. It's a pain in the azz trying to figure out which thread your looking at.
Cheers
__________________
http://lecharters.com '76 23 SC CC I/O '86 20 Aquasport 200 '98 15 Boaton Whaler Dauntless There's more but w/e
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#59
11-18-2005, 01:52 PM
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Re: Trayder , CSN - et al....
Ohhh come on Finny - just cuz we got three threads in one here.....
[img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/confused.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img] Bill
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#60
11-18-2005, 01:53 PM
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Re: Trayder , CSN - et al....
Quote:
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Linear Mode
