Here We Go Again - Page 6

strick · #51 10-19-2006, 12:10 AM

andrew- I forgot what they call it but it is rated for outside use. Got it from Lowes around $25 a sheet. One side was finished and smooth and the other had a few knotts in it. I meant to place the finished side up but screwed up when I cut it so I had to flip them over. They will get several layers of glass on top.

Snookered- Thanks. I was planning to core the sides of the hull with the balsa core and 1-2 layers of 1 1/2 ounce cloth over the balsa core then make some thin fiberglass panels from a molding table and laminate that to the Balsa core. However the plan changes day by day.

Tex- Balsa core is for the above water sides of the boat. I have pleanty so I may use it on other things as well.

Ed- I guess they turned off my web site earlier today because I did not pay my domain name. They never sent me a bill in the mail. I changed my e-mail address so i did not get their e-mail also. Did you ever get your rub rail on?

strick

strick · #52 10-23-2006, 10:08 AM

Template's I forgot to show earlier that were used for the forward deck support:

close up of how it will sit:

Getting a line on the 3/8" balsa core:

Elastifoam used for adding the bulk head on the forward deck:

Checking fit:

Re attaching the step up with cabosil:

Once the cabosil dried I took off the plywood blocks and glassed completly over the foam panel.

More elastifoam used to add height to the platform:

cabosiled and then glassed in place:

Balsa core cut to fit and glued in place with light cabosil added to resin:

Balsa core tabbed in place top and bottom with 1708. The rest will covered with 1 1/2 ounce matt.

Trying to dfecide how I want to procede from here.

strick

warthog5 · #53 10-23-2006, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Balsa core tabbed in place top and bottom with 1708. The rest will covered with 1 1/2 ounce matt.

Why not use more 1708 unstead of mat? It will have more strength and close to the same weight.

mat= 13.5oz per sqyd

1708= 23 3/4oz per sqyd

RingLeader · #54 10-23-2006, 06:29 PM

Man, have I been out of the loop. I thought you were working on a house or something. Looks like you've been busy. When you're done, head East and help me a bit. I've got 2 that need finishing...

Looking good Strick. I especially like the coreing in the hull sides. I probably would have opted for a scored klegecell or even NIDA, but the balsa will do. You just have to make sure its sealed and has no penetrations.

Vinylester is nice to work with... aside from the fumes.

1bayouboy · #55 10-23-2006, 07:31 PM

Hey strict....that's your usual outstanding work....
So what is that Elastifoam??? I did search and got to a vet site???

strick · #56 10-24-2006, 12:00 AM

I was thinking the matt would be easier to wet out on the vertical surface plus I have lots of extra matt, however you are right Bobby and I probably will take your advice plus it will stay level because it's the same material.

Ed- Yes I was working on the house took a year and a half to complete. Moved in last April. Congrats on that new practice. Once you are finished getting that all set up you will be looking sweet. I've been trying not to spend a lot of money on materials on this boat thus the balsa instead of the more fancy coring materials. It will be water tight.

The foam coreing that I'm using is actually spelled Elastofoam sorry for the miss spell. It's 5/8 inch thick and very easy to work with needing to be cut only with a knife. It'easy to glass. Core cell is better but more $$$.

Right now I have another problem I tried to do a test fit of the gunnel cap tonight but it seems the boat got a little wider when I was not looking. I'll have to make some slight mods to the cap to get it back in place

strick

1bayouboy · #57 10-24-2006, 10:25 AM

Do you think the sides sagged outward some while you had the cap off??? I'm close to pulling the cap off my Tsunami and will have it off for at least a couple of months....if it could possibly sag outward I'll have to brace or strap it some way. Any chance you could pull the sides in..??
Maybe when you barced the floor supports it pushed the sides out some.

strick · #58 10-24-2006, 11:11 AM

I've been thinking about it some. How this could have happened. When looking at the sides of the hull from the outside there is no buckleing or distortion to the hull. It looks fine. I think just the top part of the hull bowed slightly after the cap was removed. Adding the floor only reinforced this new slightly wider shape. I would reccommend replacing the floor while the cap is still on or doing like i did on another boat when I replaced the whole stringer system I ran some 1x4's cross ways to the sides of the hull at 4 foot intervals and glassed them in place. They were a pain in the rear to work around but they kept the hull the same size when I was finished.

strick

Snookerd · #59 10-24-2006, 11:54 AM

Strick-
What a pain in the back side! What about applying inward pressure on the hull to flex it closer together? Project is looking good.

1bayouboy · #60 10-24-2006, 12:17 PM

Good advice Strict....I was thinking of notching 2x4's and laying them across the hull with the top edge in the notch.
I think I'll look at doing what I can with the cap on...and when I do pull it have a plan for full support of the hull and sides. I pulled the gas tank and was looking at the stringers...I did a few core drillings and there's a lot of open space along with the foam....so I'm considering a repour ala bonefish.