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  #51  
Old 11-13-2012, 07:23 AM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Okay, will do. Thanks again Strick!
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  #52  
Old 11-13-2012, 03:06 PM
PackRat PackRat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordwrench View Post
"capt chuck any chance you know the manufacturer or distributor/store for the ss version you mentioned. After a quick internet search, i only found the plated perko versions and plastic version by th marine which can't be disassembled and cleaned."


https://www.bosunsupplies.com/productdeckhdwr.cfm
thank you!
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  #53  
Old 11-14-2012, 08:19 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Scuppers are all glassed on the bottom. Ill fill em in later than glass the tops. Bottom has 5 layers: mat,woven, mat, woven, mat. The top will me similar and probably more.

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  #54  
Old 11-14-2012, 09:05 PM
Lordwrench Lordwrench is offline
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no sweat,pack rat.
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  #55  
Old 11-24-2012, 05:33 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Update. Stringers raised and glassed. Deck cut and dry fitted. Console under going a major face lift and lyposuction of 6 inches out of the middle.





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  #56  
Old 11-25-2012, 09:21 AM
deerhunter deerhunter is offline
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looking good. be in the water before you know it. i gotta do work on mine come spring. gotta find out where the water getting into the bildge is coming from.
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  #57  
Old 11-25-2012, 11:27 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Location: Cape Cod
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I got a few hours to my self after the inlaws left from thanksgiving today so I did a little work on the console. I don't know if I like the angle where my gps and switches will be but I need to have room on top for a compass and a beer.




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  #58  
Old 11-26-2012, 08:29 PM
Rlbol Rlbol is offline
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Location: Palm Beach FL
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If you are not to far along I would recommend a more shallow angle on the upper part of your console. I have the factory small console on my 23cc. It has a similar steep angle where the gauges and electronics go. It makes it difficult to see the electronics while you are leaning or standing against the leaning post. Basically the gauges are facing your body not your face.
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  #59  
Old 11-29-2012, 09:24 PM
CHANCE1234 CHANCE1234 is offline
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Here's another question for you. In the below picture, the white un-wetted fiberglass area on the stringer is where the steering cable and throttle cables passed through the deck and then through that area to run outboard and then aft. Since my tank was above deck previously, I had all the room under the deck to bend cables to go aft. Now I am planning a new tank that will end right at the aft end of the last piece of plywood under the deck. I plan on putting the console back in the original place. The problem is that my cable run went through the deck at the un- wetted fiberglass spot which was almost the very back of the console. So , I assume that In order for a new tank to work it will have to be notched on the starboard side the entire length so that I may use the old cable run area through the stringer. I hope I explained that well enough. Is my thinking correct? The tank I want is 60x23x10. Or I could use only a 20" wide tank and push it all the way to port thus leaving me some room for cables. That will offset my center of gravity which I could probably compensate for with battery placement. But fuel load obviously changes. What do you all recommend?

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  #60  
Old 11-29-2012, 09:38 PM
Bushwacker Bushwacker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHANCE1234 View Post
. . . That will offset my center of gravity which I could probably compensate for with battery placement. But fuel load obviously changes. What do you all recommend?
Moesly always put the fuel tank right on the CG because, as a pilot with thousands of hours in his logbook, he understood the importance of minimizing changes to the CG. I'd suggest you find out where the below deck tank was located on the later CC's and put yours in the same spot!
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