1970 20ft SF Rebuild

[uncleboo]

When I recored my gunwale caps I used the 1/2" baltek and glassed it all sitting flat. I didn't have any issues reattaching it, followed the contours perfectly. Your cap being larger should remain fairly flexible after recoring, BUT, listen to the ones that have tackled that before.

[Kithogue]

JBASS - we had the same worry. As you have probably seen on lots of the builds, I would definitely recommend supporting the hull with 2x4's horizontally. We had 3 supports on until we finished re-coring the hull sides.

In regards to shear, my brother noticed this before taking the cap off and we drilled in 2x4's on each side running lengthwise from stern to about 7' or 8' forward. This is where we saw the most shape. Where the shape changed a gap was created under the 2x4. Then then put a separate block in to keep the cap flexed to match the shear and screwed all together. If you go through the pictures you can kinda see what i'm talking about. 2x4's were mounted on topside between the 2 aft saw horses. I'm not sure this is necessary i haven't seen anyone else do this. The cap had some flex after re-coring but now that is resting on the hull pretty solid. Hopefully someone chimes in that has done full re-core on a flat cap.

The cap isn't fastened yet. Will fasten with screws and probably tab a couple spots. One problem, STBD side around mid ship, the hull sucked in a little more then we wanted. Solution TBD. Other than that seems to fit nice.

Cheers

[dirtwheelsfl]

Its usually not a problem to get the sheer back into its spot, itll still bend quite a bit. The width is where most issues come in, especially if you build a full transom cap off the boat and dont have the transom width just perfect...

[Kithogue]

Does anyone need these before they go in the trash. They are the hatches to the back jump seats on a 1970 20SF.

[Thepistonhead]

Dang!!!! I had been looking for one for many months and finally got one a few weeks back!

[Kithogue]

Trying to get some things checked off the list before its freezing out.
Forward storage locker and gas tank cavity have been gelcoted. Very nice to see some bare fiberglass get covered up. Gas tank supports have also been glassed in. Laminated some 1/2" coosa we had laying around from when we cored the cap. Backing block for the bow eye has also been glassed in.

[Kithogue]

I got a little ahead of myself this past week messing around preparing a deck template. I have had some setbacks in the bilge (very bubbly glass) on a section of stinger that needs to be reworked. The original layup went well but after realizing that stringer was high I had to grind it down about 3/4". I have now made two attempts at capping the stringer and sealing it off but keep getting a ridiculous amount of large air bubbles ....so i needed a change up from that job.

Started by mounting 3/4" coosa blocks 6" long every 24" inches on the hull sides to catch the deck on the outside. They are not glassed in, just bedded in thickened resin. The blocks are cut a various degrees to match the angle of the hull sides so the deck can rest nicely on top.

Next I planned to make a template of the hull just a Billythekid did. I ripped some 2" strips of Luan (old molds from the cap), threw the chop saw in the boat, heated up the glue gun and started making a spider web. I worked in 4' sections from the stern to the bow making a template. As I would complete a section I would transfer it onto 1/4" ply for a mock deck. It was awesome to the the plywood deck in place.

Then I put the old, slightly modified, console in the boat and started planning hatch placement. Hatches/gutters are cut out of the old casting platform we are hoping to reuse them to save some coin. Also, very pumped on the flat deck, it really opens up a lot of space.

[TMala]

All day IPA nice! haha

[Thepistonhead]

Nice work!!!!

[Scottman]

Brought my new boat back from NJ to RI . It came with jump seat hatch covers, thanks but I won’t need yours.