#51
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Quote:
Use the coosa for the helm area and whatever ya got for the rest. Honeycomb isnt ideal for that cuz you cant just round over the corners. Framing a box is just too much work and over-engineering, and shaping the corners will be a royal pain. Build the box with cored panels, fillet and tape the inside. Most of the time ill try and screw my ziptie mounts into or close to the filleted corner. Keeps all the rigging tucked into the corner and theres plenty of meat to hold the screw… |
#52
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I made the passenger side bulkhead separating the deck area from the cuddy area with 1/2" CC honeycomb and a couple layers of 17 oz. biaxial on each side. It is quite stiff and not having to worry about corners made it relatively easy. Then I made the seat/hatch covers the same way. Lots of edges meant filling the honeycomb with thickened epoxy and then wrapping glass tape around, several layers thick. More work than I expected, but plenty strong again and fit well.
I am planning on making the entire face of the helm where the steering pump, electronics and everything else will be attached to ensure it is plenty strong. Then I was figuring the frame for the rest of the helm box with Coosa. Maybe I can see if I can locate some more Coosa locally. I found the three panels I have used off Craigslist for $660. That's about one panel now with shipping. I like the idea of making my own G10 style glass board. That should be easy enough. I have found the 17 oz. material ends up being 1/32nd of an inch thick each layer. 12 layers won't take long to do. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. Much appreciated. |
#53
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If you still have any scraps of demoed boat(the original side of the deck liner work great) you can stack them and use thickened epoxy to stick them together to make cheap G10.
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#54
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Boats looking good. Your stringers came out nice...almost a shame to cover them up lol
Strick
__________________
"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#55
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Good news on the Coosa front. I checked their website and there is a new distributor down the Cape about an hour from me. Heading down Saturday for a sheet.
I spent some time cleaning up the dash area under the windshield. Man, the oxidation of that gel coat was thick. Practically down to the glass in some spots. It is going to look good levelled, faired and painted along with the rest of the helm area. I am thinking the aluminum frame of the windshield should get cleaned up as well. Polish it or powdercoat it a color, light gray? |
#56
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Thanks. I used Bigshrimpin's idea of raising them using vinyl gutter downspouts. I have been walking on them for months now and they are plenty sturdy.
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#57
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Great news on coosa. I love that stuff. I’d suggest get 2 sheets. It never goes as far as you hope it will. I tried to polish mine. They were too deeply scratched to come out nice. There was no one on my island who does powder coating (my second choice). So I put some aluminum primer and aluminum paint on them. My family thinks they look great and it was cheap! |
#58
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Image to go with my last description.
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#59
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Some photos of my latest work now that winter is here and I won't be out there for a few months. The helm is a clean sheet ready for fairing, painting and components to be installed. Same for the splashwell as the purchased hatch cover is just sitting there. Seating is nice and tall making space for a 5 gallon bucket inside.
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#60
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I am so happy winter is over and I have been able to get back to work. The last week and a half has been spent removing the bottom paint. I used the lye-corn starch method and was able to get 90% of the paint off this way. The rest was good ole sanding.
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