1978 SF restoration, my first one..... - Page 7

wtenglish · #61 09-18-2009, 12:15 AM

Just when you think all of the cellulose is gone you find more.

Fitting the inner liner and top cap. I want to glass the opening of the original storage area so that it is flush with open access to the anchor locker and hatches further back. Trying to figure out where to make the cuts to refit.

Some of the top cap cracks that have been repaired.

After cuts were made. I'm leaving the center strut temporarily for stabilization while I'm working on it.

zach · #62 09-18-2009, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Zach,

I'm planning on buying a flotation bracket from Hermco.

You'll be happy with the bracket.

thehermit · #63 09-22-2009, 08:12 AM

Will,

WOW.....wood fears you

Nice work...you are really doing an awesome job

wtenglish · #64 09-30-2009, 09:28 PM

Thanks. All the post on here provide plenty of motivation!

After cutting the rear hatch opening I needed to reinforce the back. This piece was a semi structural 5/8" board since they didn't have what I had used everywhere else. I'm using 3/4" Coosa Board strips to reinforce it and provide a stop for the center hinged hatch.

These are the equipment pads that I'll glass over to mount the fuel filter, raw water pump, sump pump and two thru hulls for the seacock and transducer. I've simulated working on these and should be able to install and remove without too much trouble.

BigLew · #65 09-30-2009, 11:43 PM

I don't mean to raise any real serious questions but while your mounting pads look terrific, I would question putting your D/S transducer that close to the transom. I seem to remember recomended setbacks of around 18" and a larger offset from the keel. You might want to check it out before you crank up the "portable hole" that's not too portable.

Just my 2 cents.

wtenglish · #66 10-01-2009, 10:16 AM

Thanks BigLew! I'll definitely check the installation recomendations and if it is an issue will probably just go with an externally mounted transducer.

Old'sCool · #67 10-01-2009, 10:37 AM

I hope to never go back to a transom mount transducer. I installed the Airmar tilted element through a similar block and am very, very satisfied. It may lose bottom when backing really hard or catchin' air, but that's it.

wtenglish · #68 10-01-2009, 03:57 PM

reelescape1, are you telling me that yours is mounted as close to the transom as my pads are shown in the picture? Looking at the picture the pad to the left would be for the thru hull transducer.

Old'sCool · #69 10-01-2009, 04:08 PM

I can't see the pics here at work

Pics of mine are on this site somewhere if you want to look or I'll measure for ya. I'm not saying mine is where it "belongs" but it works. Mine had a HS pickup on starboard side so that's where I put the ducer on port. The manufacturer should tell you what they reccomend.

strick · #70 10-02-2009, 02:10 AM

Quote:

After I had removed the rub rail. It didn't take long to figure out that the boat had been restored once before..... The previous restoration had built up the top of the transom with scraps of plywood and what I think is a Cabosil mixture. It appears that during the previous restoration there were inspection holes drilled in the stringers to check the foam and then sealed as shown with drops of some bonding material.

From everything I've seen on your very careful and efficient tear down it looks like this boat was not previously restored...at least to the level of what you and I call restoration. The previous owner may have replaced the rub rail and painted the boat but everything else that I'm seeing under the deck and at the inner transom is factory work.

You are doing a great job and when it's finished you are going to be so happy knowing what is under your feet is solid and sound. Keep up the good work!

strick