Yet Another Transom Job in the Works - ?ions

[oldbluesplayer]

FJ - would rather stick with the marine ply, but for stuff your going to encapsulate in glass, at least the way I envision doing knees, for instance, then exterior ply ought to be satisfactory.

Bill

[Fishjack]

Thanks Bobby - I "thought" visqueen might work..

Bill - I plan on having enough marine ply but I was hoping ext ply would suffice.

Thanks guys..

[warthog5]

That will give you another excuse to come hang out some more in P'cola.

[Fishjack]

OK as mentioned all the wood is OUT - still have some cleaning to do..


Well this project (thanks to you guys) started out as "I'm going to replace the transom" well now it has turned into a little more than that.

Today I pulled out the "self bailing" deck drains - both were in bad shape I plan on going back with the original configuration for now.. Should I use 5200 or 4200 - I know 4200 bonds with metal better??

Anyway - Today I also decided to pull the fuel tank out while I had easy access to check it out - after all it's only about 30 years old and this is what I found.



I managed to slide the old tank out the rear without removing the t-top.. I wish it were as easy as it sounds...



The infamous rubber strip corrosion...


Soooooooooo... I guess it's new tank time - this one is
12H/28W/69L / 100 gallon ..



There is wasted space in front of the tank - I was debating on installing a fresh water tank there OR going with a longer fuel cell for more fuel capacity..

I guess it's time to start re-reading the fuel tank threads..

Tomorrow I will be pulling up the old fuel tank support and HOPEFULLY starting to play with some epoxy resin..

Again - do I need marine ply for the fuel tank base?? Man I wish I could find marine ply here locally. I'm sure it would be best..

I really apprecite the comments and feedback..

I'll try and get some pics of the trash can full of empty beer bottles tomorrow.. THERE STACKING UP..
Jack

[strick]

Fish jack-

The bottom of my fuel tank looked like yours were the rubber was. As for marine ply for the fuel tank support you really dont need if you use high quality plywood it will work just as good. However I would use 1808 biaxial to cover the top side and bottom side epoxied to the plywood. Router the edges facing the bow and stern so you can wrap the fiberglass over the exposed edges and that will last another 30 years. Anoter option is to go with a composite such as cosa and that would be first class. while you have your boat gutted and exposed you may want to check out those battery boxes (flat surfaces on either side just behind the gas tank) they were rotton in my boat. That is one of the only places you will find wood in your seacraft besides your transom and hatch coring. Keep up the great work.

Battery Boxes: http://www.casdvm.com/photos/SeaCraf...ttery%20boxes/

strick

[Capt Chuck]

There is wasted space in front of the tank - I was debating on installing a fresh water tank there OR going with a longer fuel cell for more fuel capacity..

Your 100 gal fuel tank was standard. SeaCraft offered 150 gal option. When I reinstalled a new tank, I installed a 135 gal. I still had room for approx 12 gal fresh water between the front of the tank and the back of the forward deck hold bulkhead. I used a bladder tank with an inspection/access hatch thru the deck hold bulkhead.

It sure comes in handy

[Fishjack]

Thanks Strick -

I went with - due to time frame and availability - the highest grade exterior ply I could find. I am planning on laying biax (1708) on both sides as you suggested.

Where did you find the plastic strips for the tank support? I have been looking around and cannot seem to find any.

I am going to get a larger fuel tank (96L vs. the original 69L) and thinking about moving it further forward for more weight in the front of the boat like others here have done.

I remember seeing your pics while doing my research of the battery boxes.. my batteries are in my center console but I will sill look into the built in boxes. I guess I should just drill some exploratory holes correct?

Thanks again for the advise.

FWIW – my price range so far on a new tank – 96Lx29Wx12H are from $1200.00 to $700.00. The $1200.00 unit is epoxy coated. These prices do not include shipping…

[Fishjack]

Capt Chuck - you replied while I was responding to Strick's post...

I was wanting to install a fresh water tank but was not sure how to secure it or plumb it?? I guess I need to do some research on that as well.

How do you secure a bladder tank.. That sounds like it may be the way to go.

Thanks,
Jack

[Capt Chuck]

How do you secure a bladder tank.. That sounds like it may be the way to go.

Jack

I first glassed in a flat floor section (like the fuel tank floor) The bladder tank has (4) loops, one on each corner. I secured two bottom ones to the floor and two top to the underside of the deck. Now secured the tank is verticle vs lying flat. The bladder tank will conform to the space you have. The fill tube comes up thru deck within the consoles forward seat out the side. The outflow is up thru the deck into the console along with the pump. I used the 13 gal bladder tank for $59

Here is a link to the tank I used

Bladder Tank

[c_e_carter]

Jack,
Where are you getting the tank made? i.e. quotes?
Local..?
Chris..