Here We Go Again - Page 8

Bryan A. · #71 11-01-2006, 10:38 AM

Quote:

The whole boat will be one big hard spot when I'm done with it.

Where's Finster when you need him???

Nice job so far Strick!!!!

strick · #72 11-01-2006, 11:53 AM

I was thinking the same thing. [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img]

strick

strick · #73 11-01-2006, 12:01 PM

Any ideas on how I should fix this mess?

I'm debating if I should take the easy way out and just re-core over the top of the old core and glass over it or if I should rip the old core out and start from scratch.

strick

GradySailfish · #74 11-01-2006, 01:01 PM

Didn't you just recore the topcap? If so getting the core out and "starting from scratch" would be rather difficult and counter productive.

Grid out a bevel in the and try to join the two halves. Maybe glass cross members running horizontally underneath to reinforce the front cap area.

I feel your pain, but your making awesome progress. I finally got the top cap back onto my Master Angler this past weekend. I also glassed it, 5200, and through bolted the top cap to the hull.....it ain't going nowhere!

Will post pics later.

RingLeader · #75 11-02-2006, 12:59 AM

I don't think its necessary to remove the coreing in that top cap to adequately join the sides together. I would scarf in a piece to join the two halfs and then cut a larger piece of some kind of core material that overlaps the joined area by 8" or 10" or so on each side and glass that to place. If you use a piece of coosa or something like that it won't add but 10 lbs or so to the situation up there. Hell 3/4" plywood and a little glass won't add but 20 lbs at the most. Bevel back the glass on the sides of each half on the top side and glass it up real well. It'll be strong as hell.

I just removed all the old masty plywood core material from the fuel tank hatch on my big Mako and in some spots I caused some nice damage geting that core material out... Now if the core in that forward deck is rotten or wet, well take it out and start fresh. Otherwise, I would splint it together from the underside.

warthog5 · #76 11-03-2006, 08:58 AM

What Eddie said will be the easiest way to do it.

I would probelly cut the skin on the underside and the core out about 6in wide and leave the outer skin and install a piece of core in there.

But you may have a problem with that in that where you have the bolt's may be in the way.

As I said the way Eddie said will be the easiest and be just fine. On the added core on the underside be sure to 45deg the sdge's to allow the glass to conform easy and give a factory look that no one but us will know it's not stock.

A added bonus will be a thicker core for hardware mounting.

strick · #77 11-03-2006, 11:25 AM

Ok that sounds like a good plan. I'd also like to make a anchor locker hatch on top of the cap and by glassing it together like you have described I can still do that. There will be a bulkhead under this part of the cap anyway plus it will also get glassed to the hull like I found it so it should be ok. It started raining yesterday so I've moved the boat to the shed. I wont get to work on it till this weekend.

strick

warthog5 · #78 11-03-2006, 07:04 PM

With the anchor hatch in mind, I'd go ahead and buy the hatch.
Then build a parimeter frame on the underside while it's upside down.
Then have a piece of overlap core for and aft of that to span the cut.

Set the hatch so the hinge's are to the side. [Port side]
What this does is get the hatch out of the way when your deploying or retriving line.

I saw this setup first on a Teira and it work's well, as apposed to having the hinges foward or aft.

RingLeader · #79 11-03-2006, 10:05 PM

Quote:

With the anchor hatch in mind, I'd go ahead and buy the hatch.
Then build a parimeter frame on the underside while it's upside down.
Then have a piece of overlap core for and aft of that to span the cut.

Set the hatch so the hinge's are to the side. [Port side]
What this does is get the hatch out of the way when your deploying or retriving line.

I saw this setup first on a Teira and it work's well, as apposed to having the hinges foward or aft.

That and if you recall on Ryan's Intrepid the hinges on the anchor locker are to the rear of the lid. Since there is no slam latch (which I need to install for him one day) every time you come off of a wave in a rough sea the lid opens and slams. I think to the right or left side would help that, but a slam latch is the way to go there as well.

strick · #80 11-03-2006, 11:16 PM

Quote:

With the anchor hatch in mind, I'd go ahead and buy the hatch. Then build a parimeter frame on the underside while it's upside down. Then have a piece of overlap core for and aft of that to span the cut. Set the hatch so the hinge's are to the side.

Thats exactly what I was thinking of doing except I dont have any premade hatches in mind. I dont like the Bomar hatches because they are not very UV resistant and they will chalk over time. If you look at what Hermco did to his 20 http://www.hermco.net/gallery-2.htm It looks like he glassed in the frame off a Bomar hatch then built his own lid? I may do something like that or if you have any other hatches in mind? I can make one from scratch but getting the weather stripping right is a bit of a pain so I'd rather buy one and make a recessed area on the cap for it to sit in.

strick