Dang!! You're a plumbing fool!!! I could work on this for years and not get it to look this good!! :)

You are crankin along dirt... thats some serious fan action you got going on there as well...I like the idea of leaving the tank alone...only places they corrode is where they touch something in my experience...as long as there is good ventilation in the bilge the tank should last forever. What will the tank be resting on ? Nice work as usual.

strick

It finally dropped down to 70 at one point this morning, only had to use 1!

It has some corecell going down the center matching the half round keel and some pvc strips on the corners matching the deadrise. All will be 52 million'ed down. It will have a big access plate on top so i can number 1, fill it and 2, get in there and hose it off if need be. I have a big badass aluminum bomar dog hatch and ring but im not gonna have the depth clearance to use it. I HATE anything plastic on a boat but ill probably end up using one of the armstrong plates because they actually seal. Unless i come across something in a shallow aluminum variety before the time comes, which is coming right up! Got deck core ready to be laid up just about...

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Nice work. Very inspiring...

I aspire to inspire sometimes! This inspiration came to me from a poured epoxy floor...Its a pigmented UV from Raka. Hopefully ill get 5 years before it starts to yellow! Maybe ill do a chain steering wheel like a lowrider hmmm... Ill throw a bilge pump in there if 10 holes isnt enough.

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Tank in for good

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Starting on the deck. 1.5" honeycomb, 11ft between the bulkheads to play with

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Ring for the armstrong hatch over fuel tank

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Livewell...

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and fwd bilge gutter

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[QUOTE=dirtwheelsfl;265966]

Ring for the armstrong hatch over fuel tank

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Wait, what?
I thought about doing that for my sceptre, but wasn't sure I could pull it off.
Maybe some additional install photos when the time comes, por favor?
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ons/icon14.gif

For the PVC mounting blocks and bottom edges, is that something like an Azek? You don't have the cold weather concerns that we have but I worry a little about movement in the winter. Again, probably overthinking but anything different you would suggest especially if I 5200 to bottom of bare tank. Leftover Airex strips?

How much pigment did you need with the RAKA UV resin? Might need to copy that too.

[QUOTE=erebus;265967]
Yea thats gonna take some finagling to get the bottom arm to contact in the right spot. The core is too thick for it to just grab on that, so ill have to rabbit some out and put another flange in the bottom side. No way i was gonna leave it proud of the deck tho! Ill take plenty of pics. The disc for that quickie mold was just a piece of 1/2" starboard i cut on the bandsaw...

Azek is more like starboard i think? Real dense and slick? I used an extruded pvc made for boatbuilding. Same stuff in the transom, its 20# density and has rough faces on it. Same as this... https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/p...l.php?prod=AP3 Anything dense will work tho...


On the pigment i just started putting some in and mixing til it looked cool! Theres like 10 different ones in there. Doesnt take much though...

Just curious, do you use the Raka UV for other phases of your boat building? I just received my order of this with enough to do my transom. We have wild temperature and humidity swings here in LA (Lower Alabama) this time of the year, so I was thinking that this may work pretty good for me.

Not for glasswork, unless it was gonna be exposed and clear coated like a finish cloth over wood or something like that. Its usually their 127 low viscosity with tropical or slow. Alotta times ill use the slow for fillets so it sets up quicker and can glass right over it without pushing it all out. Vertical layups ill put some slow in too so it doesnt all drain out before it gels. U can mix the hardeners to get whatever u want. This time of year will mostly be slow hardener for me.

I will use some of the UV to rebuild the teak anchor locker door though. Then itll be clear coated with awlgrip or similar. Im gonna do a couple “pours” in a shallow tray to glue all the pieces together and leave a nice flat face...

With my limited experience,these are valuable time saving tips to help keep me on the right path. Thanks, and keep us all posted with your progress.

Any questions just ask! Probably used 500 gallons of their stuff over the years

We will see how this armstrong hatch works out. The smaller ones seal great.

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Bottom side is glassed

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Gutter will drain to recessed side scuppers. Theres a 1/2" of crown in it.

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There sure is a lot to learn from your posts Dirt...I'm sure the armstrong deck plate will work fine never had a problem with any of the ones I've used...never did the recessed receiver like you have done... its nice to see you are always going he extra mile :)

strick

How big is the Armstrong hatch? I would like to buy 2 rings like this for my bracket if they were 8 "

That's really slick!

They call it a 10” but the clear opening is 10.5 and the OD on the top is 12”. The “mold” was just a piece of 1/2” starboard cut to a 12” circle on the bandsaw. Put a small roundover on the top and some clay in the corner and lay it up

Test fit. No patterns, just width measurements every ft then every 6" up forward... The crown will get persuaded in with some weight. Outer stringers are 1/2" or so lower than inners, a good 3/4" at hullsides. I hate standing water!

Its only got 1x1700 on top now, the second will cover everything and tab into the hullsides. 85# as it sits right now

If it looks funny its because the vertical lines in the bulkheads arent centerlines, theyre just glue joints...

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No turning back now...

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Very, very nice!! I do like the "bow" you put in the floor, great idea!!

Almost all glassed in. First layer goes 10" up the hullsides, next one starts at top of hullsides and tabs 4" onto deck. Gets my double tab and some glass on the hullsides which were too thin for my liking after grinding. Put some extra strips up top too for some rubrail meat (even though it will be thrubolted). Gonna do 1 more layer of some super tight woven cloth (basically what g10 is made from) over the walking surface and call it good (2x1700 and the woven) ...

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I like the way you one off guys do things...seems like less work then making molds and molding boards....so will you have to fair the whole deck or just High build primer it? Nice work as usual...

strick

Never been much of a mold fan... its like building it twice! End product is only as good as the mold too. Id rather just put the time in fairing after than perfecting a mold. Stuff ends up lighter too doing it one-off in epoxy. Dont have the gelcoat, thirsty mat and core bonding putties adding weight. People always poopoo the price of epoxy, but dont account for using way less of it cuz you dont need to wet out all that chopped strand!

This boat will just get a weave filling wipe, machine sanding then roll some primer on. Industrial finish from rubrail in. Dont want a showboat..

yea I hear you...then theres alligators, voids in the lay up etc.... I had to think twice about that "weave filling wipe" lol

strick

Yep stuff i dont wanna worry about! Production world stuff is kind of a foreign language to me honestly.

Just gonna fill the weave basically lol. Wont be hand blocking every inch of the topsides thats for damn sure! The finish will be pretty flat too, not shiny... Not sure what im gonna use yet.

Front and rear decks glassed on bottom. Top will get done on the boat...

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Dunno what im gonna hide down here besides the washdown pump but i just hate to waste this space...

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Cast Net

I don't mind doing the molds, but man I hate doing the fairing...


I can see benefits of both depending the situation. Some things are better off being done like you have done and some things are nice popped from molds.


Regardless of technique the way yours is coming along it will be top notch and looks really nice though.

You can store short "square grouper"

Leland wins!

If you don't mind my asking, what are the steps between shooting the laser and the finished cut floor?
Just measurements and a good eye?
Do you make a tongue-depressor-glue-stick template?
Just curious.
Your fit and finish is fabulous. http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ons/icon14.gif

Never mind. I found it.
Glue/stick template it is.
:D

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Don't forget us old hippies from the 60's at our next gathering...:cool:

The yellow things...what be they...

Gotcha Ken!

@Strick, thats just masking tape over the freshwater tank fill and vent. Pickups down at the bottom.

For the freaks that like fairing fotos...

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I really like to keep shit as simple as possible, but the anchor locker drains got a bit out of hand. I felt they were too close to the waterline to just bore a hole out the hullside so they got some tubes piped. The drains are dished out a bit and the panel dips in just a bit so it shouldnt hold any water...

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@strick, i decided to plug the dedicated vent for the freshwater tank (that white pipe u see now is just for the washdown hose from pump to spigot) and am gonna do a vented fill cap instead. Keep it simpler...

Bottoms of side decks/coamings glassed, ready to put on da boat.

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Start of the side console.

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