trim tab location
 

Joel will be able to answer best his intent, he's one very, very, intelligent dude.

I am going to guess that the effect will be quicker response and a more dramatic response.
The trim tabs may also be in cleaner water being inboard, where the bow and midship will spread and knock down minor chop.
Also; remember the outer panels are the low speed panels. Locating inboard may help reduce parasitic drag at higher speeds, by raising more of the hull out of the water that much more, hes reducing wetted surface area.

Trim tab location
 

I would think the outer panel would be the preferred location for the trim tabs, particularly if you're using them for lateral (side-to-side) trim control, which is mostly what I use mine for. The outboard location would provide a larger rolling moment for the same force/tab deflection, or conversely, would require less tab deflection (and drag) for a given rolling moment.

Deep V hulls also generate more lift and rise higher out of the water as speed increases. The 1973 Boating magazine test of the 23' Tsunami/Sceptre contains a shot of the hull with the chine completely out of the water at the transom at high speed (over 40 mph). (I can send a .pdf file of that article to anyone who wants it if you'll PM me with an e-mail address.) This means that trim tabs on the outer panel would tend to be mostly out of the water at high speed, reducing drag at a condition where you typically don't need the tabs anyway.

Of course if you're running fast enough that you need tabs to prevent chine walking, that's a whole other issue! Might need to big long tabs like race boats use for that situation. There is also probably a little more aeration in the water at the outer panel at higher speeds which would tend to reduce the lift generated, but the tabs on my boat seem to be very sensitive and effective for lateral trim control at normal 20-30 mph cruising speeds.

just not enough room. Compromise was to have bracket lower for free diving. I looked into the "blade" type tabs, but they required through bolts in area that I have already foam filled. So yes, I will not have as much lateral trim control as I would if there were on the outside panels. I did see another builder here who notched the bracket to allow the actuators to fit on the outside panel, and I think that's a good solution if you really want them on the outside. I don't really see it being a big deal on this boat.

Normally I could have just slid them as far over as they could go, but due to the changing hull panels on a seacraft, you have to have the tab on one hull panel or the other. A more traditional V bottom would have allowed more room for a wider/shallower (like a 18x9) tab.

Looking really good.. Where did you get the trim?

Thanks, shine. I concur it'll be fine. It doesn't take much trim to alter the running angle, regardless of tab placement. I just removed 16" tabs from the center panels of the 21 because it appeared that when trimming bow down they were stirring a lot of water around and away from the prop. I'll probably go with 12x12 on outer panel when I put some back on. -McG

from this place: E-DIGITAL ELECTRONICS

I had never hear of the website before, but I found them doing a google search by part number. The price was low, maybe too low I thought. sometimes the too low price is because they are out of stock. But they arrived just fine, $659 which included the tabs and the nicer back lit switch.

LOL.. thanks for the response but I was wondering where you picked up the trim for the gunnel, great price BTW on the tabs.

I picked up the trim at the marine surplus store in Ft. Pierce. It does not match well, but I plan to get coaming cushions covers around.

Two Coats of Signature Finish and Wham Bam Thank You Mame :p

nice!

copied from my other thread............


motor is on. Its not going to be fast, but I am hoping for about 3.5 mpg with a cruise somewhere just north of 25 mph. We will see. Motor is a 2003 with 360 hours, its the left hand motor from a pair. bought the motor from a dealer in Stuart and they gave me a pretty good deal on hooking up the hydraulics and cables, they did in one afternoon and it would have taken me a week.

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I put in fuel/water separators for each tank, selector valve and prime bulb are accessed through one of the transom boxes.

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bilge is done. Pumps are all mounted and plumbed, so are the drains for the live well, live well overflow, and rear fish box.

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Next up is making up the electrical system. I wanted to farm this out too, but the budget is about tapped so I will be doing it myself. The the last of the non-skid and we are ready for a test run :) Cant put the t-top on until the last - she wont fir back in the warehouse after the top goes on :|

Shine your project is coming together really good, cant wait to see the TTop on. Were did you get your bowrail from? was it custom made? is it SS steel our aluminium?

I tackled the wiring in my 23' also. These guys had great pricing, service, and install lugs correctly on larger cable so you can order to fit. I bought all my stuff from them. http://genuinedealz.com

With that 225, you should easily see a cruise of 25 mph. As for the "cruise" fuel economy, I doubt you will get 3.5 mpg, probably more like 2.5-3.0 mpg.

I think Jim is right on with a 3.0 mpg projection, I only get about 2 mpg loaded. It's the load thay makes these numbers so hard to pin down. Took mine out yesterday for the first time in quite a while, just me and about 100 gal of fuel with a 10 mph wind and smooth water. At 3800 I was burning 11.5 gal/hr @ 30 mph, a very easy plane speed, just for grins I wound it up to 5700 -5800 with the wind and got 48+ mph on the GPS. All those numbers change with more people, coolers, tackle, etc. in the boat....that's the real world you need to look at. Your 225 Yamaha combo should be perfect.

well, I guess we will see soon enough, but my buddies 23 seacraft gets over 2 mph with twin 150 opti's so Im sure it will better than that (light load at 30mph)

I base my 3.5 mpg guestimate/wish on a few different boat reviews of similar boats (hull shape and weight), with a 225 a similar boat was at 4 mpg at 3800 pounds. My boat should be a little lighter than stock SC

Its stainless and it came with the hull, its pretty nice, just cleaned it up with some metal polish before installing

they have good prices. I am fortunate to have a few good sources for that stuff. :)

Will spend a few more hours today busting knuckles - did I mention I hate wiring :o

Yepper...geniunedealz is the "mac daddy". I'm into these guys for at least $800 for various projects and products. I highly recommend.

Took the boat back to the dealer last week, they replaced the oil pressure sensor and changed the oil. They hooked up a manual oil pressure gauge and we took the boat out and ran it hard for an hour or so. Oil pressure was very good, no warnings came on. With 55 gallons of fuel and three guys on board we got it up to 6200 rpm no problem, there was still some throttle left. I will be trying it again this weekend with the t-top and a fishing load.

She is pretty much finished at this point, all that has to be done is the electrics need to be bought and installed, then the wiring has to be cleaned up along with some minor hardware stuff. :)

The first picture is the vent for the forward tank. Its actually a "p-trap"; like a vent, but better in a few ways. It sheds water, even with a direct hose spray, and does not require a loop in the vent line. Not needing a loop was nice, I really did not have room in there for it anyway.

http://boatbuildercentral.com/products.php?cat=22

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finishing up the kiwigrip non-skid. I ran out out of the first gallon right as I was wrapping up the sole, but I still needed some on the swim platform, so I have to get another quart. My original thought was to use sea-deck on the platform, but the budget is tapped for now :)

Below shows how I like to tape off for KG application. A tip I have learned; when removing the tape, try to remove it in the order you put it down (if possible) that way you lift off only the piece your pulling on.

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leaning post cushions on, and the t-top is going on today. It had a nice coating of fiberglass dust that needed to be washed off.

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Shine the boat is looking better & better every time I see it, very nice work, i'm sure your proud. How much paint did you have to use to cover your hull, inside and the exterior? Just comparing with others to get a reference of how much I need to buy.

Cant want to see the TTop on, and in the water.

looking great..I am sold on that Kiwi grip!
Fred

+1 on the Kiwi Grip. I'm seriously considering using it on my 23. How much would you say you used on the gunnel cap and sole? Any other tips you can relay applying the stuff?

thanks guys

I used one gallon to do the whole boat, the little bit on the bracket require me to open a new quart

for the blue on the hull sides and bracket I used about 2 quarts of sterling (plus catalyst), it was the same gallon of paint I used to paint my flats boat 4 years ago :) its goes on thin and you really can get 200+ square feet per gallon when you roll and tip.

got the t-top on, full Eisenglass enclosure too.

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Wow, build me a replica? Haha

:) Well, let me use it for a while, then maybe it will go up for sale.

Ran her for about 60 miles over the weekend, burned 1/3 tank (approximately 18 gallons). Will not know for sure, but I think Im around 3.3 miles per gallon. She definately need more prop, Im getting it all the way to 6000 rpm with 3 guys, one tank full, and some ice/gear on board, and there is still room on the throttle. Will try a 19 next. At 4200 rpm Im at 27 mph, I would like to get the same cruise with a little lower RPM.

Im not sure I will ever use the second 55 gallon tank unless Im going to Bahamas. If I do even re-power with a 300 or twin 150's the extra fuel capacity will be needed. Most trips I plan to use this boat for are going to be under 60 miles round trip.

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shot a few mangroves and got some blood on her !

Whats Max RPM for that motor? 6000? What was your top speed?
I am trying to figure out what I am going to see with my 250 Honda. I was hoping for cruse of low to mid 20's with a top end in the upper 30s to 40.

mechanic said it was 6250 or somethign close, he said it takes down one cylinder at a time when it hits the reline and that its hard to really feel it. I don't like pushing it that hard, so I have not gone much past 6000 for more than a few seconds.

I think your Honda will be a little better. Your crusie will probably be high 20's

By the GPS on my phone I was at 37 right before I got to 6000. I need a new prop, and a GPS, then I can give some good numbers - its pretty loose right now.

wrapping it up now......

Installing GPS/sonar, had to make another hole in the transom for the cable, I had hopes the tube I made for the trim tab cable would be big enough to also fit the tranducer cable, but the plug on the ducer cable was too wide (and you know you can not cut those things).

hole drilled

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hole coated liberally with epoxy

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PVC liner sanded to get good bond

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I cut a mixing stick in half, length wise, to make a "butter knife and use it to coat the inside of the hole. Then I put some on the tube before threading it through, I turn it as I slowly push it through. I put some electrical tape on the end of the pipe so the putty does not get in the tube, then when it all cures I cut the ends back with the multi tool. BTW, the blue tape there is to catch the epoxy so it does not run down the boat.

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filled with life seal

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I went with a Humminbird 998 side image. Found a pretty good price on it, for about as much as most other places were selling the 898. Not cheap, but this whole boat is built around finding fish (specifically bottom fish), so to skimp on the one tool that will make it MUCH easier to find good bottom seemed silly. Hopefully I will have a good handle on how to read it by the time the keys trip in June. You can see from the pictures I made a mount that would allow me to remove the unit but have it in the dash, dash is only 4" deep so it just barely fits and I can still close the glass. Looks a little funky, but its the best compromise for what I wanted (removable but still in the dash)

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Re-wiring the boat: Until this point I have installed everything willynilly to make sure it worked and to see how I liked the layout. Have I mentioned I dislike this part of boat build :? Took everything out and Im now putting it all back, somewhat organized.

Got a new prop: 14.25 x 19 stainless, the one I had on first was for a smaller engine 13.75 x 17. So its a big step up, so we will see what happens.

been using the boat for the last couple months, very happy. Put about 40 hours on the Yamaha and its running well. Took her to the keys for a week earlier this month - perfect boat for down there.

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this week at the spoil island, she loves the boat

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Memorial day in Vero, my buddy's 25 seacraft behind mine.

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What are your cruise speed numbers with the F225? And economy (mpg)?

from my "finding the right prop" thread...

The fuel flow meter needs to be calibrated, last weekend it was telling me 6.5 gph at 26 mph and 3900 rpm, which might be close as I was going with wind and a very light load.

ReBuild
 

Tha is one Nice Ride Love the detail work and very informative build

Great looking SeaCraft Shine! I see your in Vero Bch, I think I passed you early evening near the Barber Bridge on the 1st. I gave you a Thumbs-Up thru the truck window?

Ha! yeah, I remember you :D

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Thanks for posting this! Relocating mine tonight.

It turned out pretty nice, you will need a bigger hole than what I show, I had to make it bigger to get a good fit. I needed about 3" of clearance for the Plexiglas to close. I have another piece of aluminum angle on the back side as a backing plate.

MUCH better than on top of the console !

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boat is for sale. :o

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=24559

Nice project: did you raise the weather deck (floor) for better drainage? If so, how'd you do it? Is that a CSY recessed rail? How did you set up the fuel tankage? Where did you put the batteries? I'm very curious- looks real clean

Shine, In my case, a 79 jackshafted diesel that has been converted to a closed transom bracketed outboard) I have no reference to what existed before and where the cg of the boat should be.

My question is how did you design your boat and where did you find the information to arrive at your calculations?

Lets start a new thread and we can discuss it :)

I will get it going

Shine your boat is gorgeous bro! I just bought a 23 1986, has new transom will be adding a bracket and need to make a mold for the top of the transom like you did, your thread is very helpful!