and here is the plan for the gauge cluster

i have a piece of curly teak picked out and ran it through the flush trim router to make a duplicate of the original (or a least a copy of a copy now).

https://i.postimg.cc/7J8xDpKv/gauge-cluster2.jpg

Any suggestions, please let me know. I intend to put a seacraft emblem at the top over the large (speedo and Tach gauge in middle like factory). I'll probably have MPO make it for me. I'm not positive if these are spaced quite right yet. only thing i can do is print and make some templates on scrap and see how it looks.

I'll post more pics as I get this done hopefully this week schedule permitting.

2 large are speedo and tach
then 2 fuel, volt, tilt, temp, oil
small in bottom middle is check engine light

Bilge pump lights
 

Hey X
FWIW, I have two bilge pumps on my 20’ Seafari with small lights on dash when they are operating either manually or automatically
I like knowing visually when the pump is on.

interesting idea, Terry. i have a high-water bilge alarm. i see some value in what you are describing, though. Main concern will be matching all the stuff i already have on the gauge cluster. i have an on/off/on rocker switch setup with a float switch on the units. I had plan for bilge pumps when i was doing the outboard now it's a question of the biggest (Sterndrive) going in first. I'll put this through the think-a-lator.

here's a matching light. i bought a check engine one for that center hole. now how do i modify the cluster.... Must consult the CNO. Hope she hasn't seen what I spent on UPS and Transom Assembly. Hide Me!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

Bilge Pump Light
 

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...pictureid=2213

Hi X
The light you purchased is the same size as mine. This photo is before I added another light vertically above the other between the two large gauges. Another option might be mount it on the vertical bulkhead.

This photo is about two versions out of date, as you add or detract equipment and gauges it will change:)

Thanks terry. I’m still alive. CNO gave me scoldings but I’m rather unharmed after she saw my purchase… wait until she figures out the shipping charges and how much I spent at boat store and auto shop today!

That vertical piece there. Planning to put a cell phone charging rack and holder on that vertical surface. Bluetooth stereo and hands free screen view and safe place for people to put them.

I’m still playing with my layout. I cut out a template from mdf today in between stuff. I have quite a bit more space than your 20’ I have a slanted gauge cluster and a dash area.

Here’s how it was when I got it.

Teak will be backer for the gauges. And teak for the helm top and then down under the steering wheel. I’m having trouble getting the geometry right.

https://i.postimg.cc/tZ2KZfbc/5841C7...5EFBB3F925.jpg

I don’t like the way this came out so I’ll bust out my scroll saw and use this as a template and cut it out of teak…

https://i.postimg.cc/hXR5zsZP/32A351...24C400CD80.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/mc40jVs9/87528E...894E6600B3.jpg

Do you have a way to monitor oil temp? Given the high power you are trying to achieve, an oil temp gauge might head off some expensive repairs

Howzit, Connor! I hear you. I initially decided to hold off b/c I have the oil on it’s own heat exchanger. And they don’t have an oil temp gauge in my set. Could I repurpose a water or head temp one? Probably.

I bought a new mercury 63832a1 to go on just the oil. It just came in yesterday. Still waiting on the one for power steering.

My goal was to get this running and then fine tune. I’m more on the side of oil pressure and coolant temp gauges as vital. I read somewhere on the LS you’ll stretch your head bolts and mess up your gaskets on an engine overheat before the oil breaks down… don’t ask me where now…

But with your suggestion I could put one on there and add an Hobbs meter and that would take me back to factory gauge setup with 4 on each side…so I’ll likely do that. With the oil filter relocation kit and cooler kit it should be a simple thing to do.

So here’s a mock-up on mdf. I’ll cut it out in template, break in engine and order the other gauges and install in boat eventually.

https://i.postimg.cc/Ffj9dQhp/8A4DD2...5410D849F1.jpg

So here’s a mock-up of the gauge cluster on mdf. Think we’re getting closer here.

https://i.postimg.cc/qzcDsx1x/2949-E...917-D6-BD1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/FY9WDkq5/39-FD1...4733-F5-B6.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/TpvH54JP/94-AA7...7926-FC559.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/jC7F5bN9/A9-A57...-B95-B85-A.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/N2c7FWvq/8FE5FA...C326533EF0.jpg


I’ve got a nice one made out of curly teak already but I’m not cutting out the gauge holes yet.

Next I’ll have to redo the teak dash, cut out switch holes, and wrap it down around the steering wheel.

I would suggest you consider including a manifold vacuum gage in your instrumentation! (Ask Connor about his experience.) It will give you a good indication of both load on your engine as well as its relative health, and you’ll find that its very sensitive. Reason is that if you want decent life on your exhaust valves, you need to understand that max continuous power = 5 inches Hg vacuum. If your engine is strong enough to cruise at 7” or higher, which it probably is, that’s even better.

A little background info . . . I was an engineer with Pratt & Whitney (maker of the old piston aircraft engines during WWII, before they got into the jet engine business.) for about 35 years before retirement. The modern piston aircraft engines like Continental & Lycoming, which are premium engines with expensive features like sodium filled exhaust valves, positive rotators and Stellite valve seats, are designed to cruise at about 75% power, the max continuous power rating. If you run through the thermodynamic calculations, 75% power works out to about 5” manifold vacuum. Most marine engines do not have those premium features, so many of the engineers I worked with that ran inboards all installed vacuum gages and observed a limit of 5” or higher for cruise rpm, and they expected an engine to run for ~2000 hrs or so before a valve job was required.

Thanks for the idea bushwhacker. I’m into planes once upon a time was going to be a pilot. Then got glasses…I ended up in secure logistics for over a decade.

I’m familiar with Lycoming and Pratt and Whitney. I suppose I could rig a vac gauge instead of the Hobbs meter. Wonder if the Terminator x has that in the handheld. There is the KPa. Doesn’t seem like the map KPa conversion to InHG is equivalent to your specs. A gauge may be only option. I’ve never heard of it on I/O but we use them plenty to diagnose engine health.

Got to research this more. Along with my heat exchanger issue. That has me frustrated.