Getting started
 

Hi! As you can see I'm new to this forum. I'll start with a little back ground. I have a 20' CC 1970 something. Mom wasn't sure when dad bought it. It's been totally gutted. All wiring and controls are gone. The transom is rotted. Floor is soft in spots. I've pulled the gas tank and drained it. It seems to be sound but I'll pressure test to be sure. The floor under the tank was soft so I cut a chunk out and the wood was wet but solid. I'm thinking of using composite for the transom but would like your opinion. I've done a lot of checking into seacast and even have a sample. It seems to be a solid product with a solid company. The sample arrived 2 days after I e-mailed them the request. After looking at all the posts on tramsom rebuilds I've decided to go in from the inside. But where do I start the first cut? I'm thinking of starting on the lower vertical front of the bilge access compartments and running up the sides and removing the back 3' of the inner shell. How does that sound? Sorry this is so long but ya gatta start some where. Thanks.

Re: Getting started
 

Some,I can send You a sample of what I used it a High density foam,I havn't splased Her yet but
it' easy to work with & No Rot !
just let Me know.I'll then let Ya know where to order.(I have to find out where, or correct name.
Scream'n reels
feeding@frenzie.com [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Re: Getting started
 

I'd love a sample. And any other help you can give me.

Re: Getting started
 

I noticed that a lot of you have opted to raise your transom to 25'. Can you tell me why and what advantages there are. Also how much wood is there connecting the transom and stringers? Reading through the post I'm under the impression that the stringers are wood free and foam filled. Is that correct? Also what is the max horse power I can safety hang on the the back of my 20' CC? Thanks.

Re: Getting started
 

Let Me know where to send,It'll leave tomorrow.
All it takes is to : Back down Hard on chasing a Marlin;stern to anchoring?;Stopping real fast & letting the Wash get Ya;Following Sea ! Only one of these You'll appreciate That Xtra 5"s.SeaCrafts sit stearn heavy.Add 500#' & she's really low.I run a Merc.150 on My 20'MA had a 200 would'nt go over that.
Scream'n Reels' [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[ September 10, 2003, 10:21 PM: Message edited by: Capt. Brad ]

Re: Getting started
 

I looked into that seacast stuff before I did my boat and decided against it. If I had to do my transom all over again I would use divinycell or one of the other composite materials on the market today instead of marine plywood. I cut all around the transom from the inside approx ½ from the outer hull and approx ½ “ deep peeled off the inside skin and then removed the old plywood. Then started from there with epoxy and new glass. There are lots of threads that talk about this type of work done on boats and lots of pictures on the home page under the different sizes of boats. Sounds like you got a 12 case Budweiser job there good luck
FellowShip [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Re: Getting started
 

Do you think the extra five inches the motor is up would cause the boat to sit even lower in the water and cause more problems with the scuppers?

Re: Getting started
 

Here is a couple of names of the Foam
Divicell/or Divycell - air rex its 24# not 40 as I thought.A company in Hialeah,Fl. has it.polyumac.Most shops in Your area should have or can get.
Scream'n Reels'
"TUG" [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Re: Getting started
 

Welcome to the board. I am re-doing a SC23 Tsunami w/ a buddy who is a pro fiberglass guy. It seems that all the pros like to use plywood to rebuild with. Don't know why, but they all do. They figure - if it is built right and sealed right and maintained - then it will last forever. I tend to agree! I will however, be epoxying all thru-transom holes so the bitch will never rot again ! Can I get an Amen !

As for cutting the transom out. I did this myself and it is a 12-16 hour thing ( I had a bigger area to work on - i/o's ). I used a circular saw in some areas to make some 'entry cuts' and a sawzall w/ a wood blade to do a lot of cutting ( I used the sawzall to go through the wood and you can easily hear or feel when the blade cuts through the wood and taps the inside of the glass - then you stop!). The above tools just help make 'chinks' in the wood -then I used either a wonderbar, a few big screw drivers, and a new, sharp chisel/hammer to remove the wood. Some areas came off easy - in sections - others fought me the whole way. Some sections I was able to take off the (2) pcs of 3/4" ply and in others, on ply at a time.

Take your time. There is no easy way around this. It sucks and then your done! Until you have the next pain in the ass part to do. Do it systematically and ask A LOT of questions.

And in the end - you'll have an awesome boat !

Another tid bit: take it easy and make it an enjoyable project or it can really suck. Always have a cooler of cold beer around - it is great when you bash your hand, cut yourself or are plain ole' freak'n tired !

Good luck !

Alan

Re: Getting started
 

HA ABLE1111
I totally agree with your last statement my boat took a little over a year to complete and now looking back when I started putting time stipulations on my self and when I ran out of beer is when it stopped being fun. If I had to do it all over again I would think 30% more time and 50% more beer would be just about right.
FellowShip [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Re: Getting started
 

I'm gonna ASSume that the other 20% would to be spent with The Wife / Family So You COULD do it AGAIN !!
Scream'n Reels' [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Re: Getting started
 

There are only a few things(Very Few & their outweighed by the Greats) anyone can say a bad thing about seacrafts.One of them is Drainage/Scuppers.You'll find all kinds of post on any fix,complaint,ideas etc.Take a Day to reveiw the archives.Thats what makes this site so "Great" is all the "ADVICE" .I just re-did mine ,just removed the ss scuppers & added the ball scuppers.She doesn't sit in the water,but on a trailer.Hope this helps Her.I always kept them plugged before.
Scream'n Reels'
Your sample is in the Mail/You have e-mail also
"TUG" [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Re: Getting started
 

Well I'm commited now. I just cut the back 2' of the inner liner out. It wasn't all that bad. Now I have access to every thing in the rear of the boat. The transom is pretty much falling out. There are some solid pieces but for the most part its not hard to get out. Check out my pics. http://web.tampabay.rr.com/my20seacraft/ Thanks again for all of the help.

[ September 12, 2003, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: and then some ]

Re: Getting started
 

Do those photo's bring some FOND memories back ,Whew !I like your schematics ! Lighting one pretty neat too.
Have Fun,Make sure You send photo's of those 2 lil' ladies when Your finsihed,Just want to see how much they've grown since Ya started ! Ha Ha!
Hopefully it won't take as long as Me !!
Scream'n Reels' [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Re: Getting started
 

I would raise it the 5". Less water in enter with the higher stern. Plus you can find better deals on 25" engines then you do on 20" engines. I just raised my 20 cc 5" and am going to install a 150. My problem is the motor been sitting in the box for over 2 months now and I cant seem to find the time to hang is and try her.

Re: Getting started
 

Yep.. raise the transom 5" and never look back! Looks like the wood is pretty well rotten, so cleaning all that out shouldn't be too bad. I went back with marine plywood in my project.

Though mine is not a SeaCraft (its a Mako) the process is still the same. Pace yourself, drink lots of Beer, and try to dedicate a few hours every weekend to the wife. My wife hates the Mako and everything that looks like it!

I've been working pretty steady since December, and I figure that I'll finish up sometime nest Spring. For the looks of your schematics, you are a detail oriented person... That is my problem and it deffinitely slows the process down. But the end result is a boat that is better than new.

Best of luck, ask lots of questions here, and get her put back together so you can take those little girls fishing!

Ed Ring
www.classicmako.com

[ September 14, 2003, 12:24 AM: Message edited by: RingLeader ]

Re: Getting started
 

I just finished a similar project. I would definitely raise the transom to 25 inches. I’m currently using a Yamaha 130, and the boat moves along just fine and is great on the gas. You will need to go with hydraulic steering if you raise the transom. I cut out my liner about the same place you did. Remember that the original wood in the transom is 1 3/8 inches thick. If you go with 2 sheets of ¾ plywood, you may have difficulty fitting the liner back in place. Don’t try to lay the glass over the notch. Lay it up straight against the wood, then fill in the top with resin mixed with glass fibers. I used a router to trim the notch flat and square.

The bottom bolts for the motor may very well line up right were the splash well bottoms out back against the transom. Engine height will have to be looked at before drilling the bottom motor mount holes.

I would use plywood for the transom. Everybody I talked to told me to use wood. Even my suppliers steered me away from composites. You’ll need to grind down that inside layer of glass that covered the transom, and cut the stringers back 4-6 inches to be able to glass up the new wood. Less chance for rot if the stringer is closed going back to the transom.

I decided not to do anything about the drains, except to make a solid tube of glass instead of using thru hull fittings. I just don’t see how well the ball valves will work if the water line is already at the top of the drains (?). I will install clamshell vents to the bottom of the hull before next season to create a vacuum while underway.

I’ve been using the boat now for about a month, and it’s been great. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Good luck with your project

Re: Getting started
 

I have a question for "EBEACH" and "and then some"
(everyone else chime in too!!)

Most of the transom repairs I have seen show the entire "cap" removed from the boat and then the inner liner is cut back what ever distance is needed to complete repairs(depending on how bad the rot is!).

and then some---seemed to cut the cap and remove only a small portion instead of removing the entire thing. Giving him access to the front of the transom. Does that decrease the integrity of the cap and the boat????
Would you just glass up and flare the area you cut through???

Has anyone else done this???

Thanks,
Pat

Re: Getting started
 

I cut my cap where your tie off rope goes through the cap when I did my transom. Then a few months later I removed the entire remainder of the cap to re do the lamination in the cap so I guess I did both. When I put the cap back together again I just glassed where the cuts were and enforced it on the inside with extra glass and epoxy the cap doesn’t move and the whole thing is screwed into the inner liner of the hull. I haven’t had any cracks or any problems at all where I cut the cap. When you remove either the whole cap or cut you remove the two storage boxed on both sides of the boat which proves more than enough room to do the transom. The only thing left to remove is the splash well area by doing that you have great access, if you have the older potters you will need to remove the live well as well. http://www.classicseacraft.com/mcgovern23page3.htm
FellowShip [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Re: Getting started
 

Pogden, I had started this reply saying only the 23's have this "cap". I just noticed that you have a master angler.

Looks like it has a cap too. Best to ask a master angler owner, or someone who has looked one over. I think you should ask yourself, is it easier to cut the rear section of the cap off, or remove the whole thing. Do you have wood core that needs to be replaced in parts of the cap?

Is this what your transom looks like?
http://www.classicseacraft.com/furnari20aftyamaha.JPG

"and then some" has a differnt type of hull. Standard 20ft which is a 2 piece boat, no cap.

hope this helps.

Re: Getting started
 

Thanks Fellowship and EBEACH.

I may just cut my cap like you Fellowship. It is in good shape without any soft spots. I think it would be easier.

EBEACH, yes that is the rear of my boat(much cleaner than mine). I'm thinking of getting rid of the storage areas, I don't use them. Maybe I can run them together to make a livewell?
I dread making that first cut.

I need more beer.