Getting started

and then some · #1 09-10-2003, 02:35 AM

Hi! As you can see I'm new to this forum. I'll start with a little back ground. I have a 20' CC 1970 something. Mom wasn't sure when dad bought it. It's been totally gutted. All wiring and controls are gone. The transom is rotted. Floor is soft in spots. I've pulled the gas tank and drained it. It seems to be sound but I'll pressure test to be sure. The floor under the tank was soft so I cut a chunk out and the wood was wet but solid. I'm thinking of using composite for the transom but would like your opinion. I've done a lot of checking into seacast and even have a sample. It seems to be a solid product with a solid company. The sample arrived 2 days after I e-mailed them the request. After looking at all the posts on tramsom rebuilds I've decided to go in from the inside. But where do I start the first cut? I'm thinking of starting on the lower vertical front of the bilge access compartments and running up the sides and removing the back 3' of the inner shell. How does that sound? Sorry this is so long but ya gatta start some where. Thanks.

TUGBOAT · #2 09-10-2003, 05:46 PM

Some,I can send You a sample of what I used it a High density foam,I havn't splased Her yet but
it' easy to work with & No Rot !
just let Me know.I'll then let Ya know where to order.(I have to find out where, or correct name.
Scream'n reels
feeding@frenzie.com [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

and then some · #3 09-10-2003, 08:45 PM

I'd love a sample. And any other help you can give me.

and then some · #4 09-10-2003, 09:05 PM

I noticed that a lot of you have opted to raise your transom to 25'. Can you tell me why and what advantages there are. Also how much wood is there connecting the transom and stringers? Reading through the post I'm under the impression that the stringers are wood free and foam filled. Is that correct? Also what is the max horse power I can safety hang on the the back of my 20' CC? Thanks.

TUGBOAT · #5 09-10-2003, 11:17 PM

Let Me know where to send,It'll leave tomorrow.
All it takes is to : Back down Hard on chasing a Marlin;stern to anchoring?;Stopping real fast & letting the Wash get Ya;Following Sea ! Only one of these You'll appreciate That Xtra 5"s.SeaCrafts sit stearn heavy.Add 500#' & she's really low.I run a Merc.150 on My 20'MA had a 200 would'nt go over that.
Scream'n Reels' [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[ September 10, 2003, 10:21 PM: Message edited by: Capt. Brad ]

FELLOW-SHIP · #6 09-11-2003, 01:51 AM

I looked into that seacast stuff before I did my boat and decided against it. If I had to do my transom all over again I would use divinycell or one of the other composite materials on the market today instead of marine plywood. I cut all around the transom from the inside approx ½ from the outer hull and approx ½ “ deep peeled off the inside skin and then removed the old plywood. Then started from there with epoxy and new glass. There are lots of threads that talk about this type of work done on boats and lots of pictures on the home page under the different sizes of boats. Sounds like you got a 12 case Budweiser job there good luck
FellowShip [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

and then some · #7 09-11-2003, 01:54 AM

Do you think the extra five inches the motor is up would cause the boat to sit even lower in the water and cause more problems with the scuppers?

TUGBOAT · #8 09-11-2003, 02:27 PM

Here is a couple of names of the Foam
Divicell/or Divycell - air rex its 24# not 40 as I thought.A company in Hialeah,Fl. has it.polyumac.Most shops in Your area should have or can get.
Scream'n Reels'
"TUG" [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

abl1111 · #9 09-11-2003, 04:00 PM

Welcome to the board. I am re-doing a SC23 Tsunami w/ a buddy who is a pro fiberglass guy. It seems that all the pros like to use plywood to rebuild with. Don't know why, but they all do. They figure - if it is built right and sealed right and maintained - then it will last forever. I tend to agree! I will however, be epoxying all thru-transom holes so the bitch will never rot again ! Can I get an Amen !

As for cutting the transom out. I did this myself and it is a 12-16 hour thing ( I had a bigger area to work on - i/o's ). I used a circular saw in some areas to make some 'entry cuts' and a sawzall w/ a wood blade to do a lot of cutting ( I used the sawzall to go through the wood and you can easily hear or feel when the blade cuts through the wood and taps the inside of the glass - then you stop!). The above tools just help make 'chinks' in the wood -then I used either a wonderbar, a few big screw drivers, and a new, sharp chisel/hammer to remove the wood. Some areas came off easy - in sections - others fought me the whole way. Some sections I was able to take off the (2) pcs of 3/4" ply and in others, on ply at a time.

Take your time. There is no easy way around this. It sucks and then your done! Until you have the next pain in the ass part to do. Do it systematically and ask A LOT of questions.

And in the end - you'll have an awesome boat !

Another tid bit: take it easy and make it an enjoyable project or it can really suck. Always have a cooler of cold beer around - it is great when you bash your hand, cut yourself or are plain ole' freak'n tired !

Good luck !

Alan

FELLOW-SHIP · #10 09-11-2003, 05:19 PM

HA ABLE1111
I totally agree with your last statement my boat took a little over a year to complete and now looking back when I started putting time stipulations on my self and when I ran out of beer is when it stopped being fun. If I had to do it all over again I would think 30% more time and 50% more beer would be just about right.
FellowShip [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]