hyd. steering help
 

I broke the bolt that connects the hyd. steering to the motor steering arm.It sounded like it was in a bind when I tilted the engine up,there was a loud pop. Should both sides of the mounting brackets move freely or is one of them mounted firmly.See pics.I had to take the brackets off to get to the broken off bolt.Any suggestions as to how to remove the broken off bolt.I removed the hyd. assembly so that I might be able to drill it out. The bracket you see still attached will not freely rotate. [image]http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/104_1159.jpg[/image] [image]http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/104_1157.jpg[/image] [image]http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...8/104_1160.jpg[/image]

Re: hyd. steering help
 

heat, and lots off it, got all sorts of thinks to worry about with it though, be carefull.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

The black cast pieces should rotate freely but not loose. I believe Sea Star has good instructions on WWW.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

I put the torch to it and within 45 seconds the inner part started to melt,I did not realize it was not metal like the outer piece,see photo [image]http://http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...104_1159-1.jpg[/image]

Re: hyd. steering help
 

After the torching , the inner part rotates freely but the metal arm is still very hard to move.Is this arm threaded on? The corresponding arm on the other side slid right off the shaft.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

The "stud" goes through the engine tube and is supposed to be loose (and greased). The bushing you melted, black cast alum., and stud should all be free to pivot when motor is tilted, but not so much to be sloppy. The starboard side should have a knurled (OD), threaded (ID) ring w/set screw to adjust the slop AFTER the lock nuts are tightened. Check their website for a drawing. Typically crud gets between all the stuff and you know the rest. A good soaking and understanding how it's built will help.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

I just managed to break loose the arm , you were right it took lots and lots of extreme heat. I'm going to use some crocus cloth to polish up the shaft before i remount the arm.What should I grease the shaft with before mounting . After this lesson learned I will grease/lubricate this joint periodically from now on.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

Marine type grease. You can see the grease fittings in your pic.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

Use Kroil to loosen that broken off bolt. Let it soak in overnight and then apply some heat to the tiller arm, which should be steel, so a propane torch won't hurt it (but keep it away from motor cowl!). Best penetrating oil I've ever seen! Pratt & Whitney used to use it on seized bolts that saw 1200-1400F, temperatures that no anti-seize compound will survive. A friend of mine that has a side business overhauling turbochargers also uses it and swears by it. Good hardware stores carry it, but you can also order it direct or from Eastwood, the outfit that sells car restoration stuff.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

okay guys I have just finished trying to get the shaft out of the tilt tube.I've gotten everything off both ends of the shaft soaked it and heated it .I put the lock nuts on both ends and hammered away with a 4# hammer that we use on the tractor occasionally , Nothing moves , only crushing the lok nut ends.Local Suzuki dealer says I need to replace the tilt tube , but obviously the shaft has to come out first.$64.00 for the tilt tube and none on the East coast,he located some in CA.$ 80.00/hr. for them to try and remove it and no idea as to how successfull the attempt might be.Any suggestions other than biting the bullet and saying FIX IT!!

Re: hyd. steering help
 

depending on how mechanically inclind you are, first of all, the zirc fitting greases only the pivot point, has nothing to do with the steering arm or tube, do you need to replace the tube? Take a wire tube brush and clean out the tube, if you need to replace the tube, cut it half in the middle, us a cut off wheel, cut a section out then bang it out from the inside out, when putting it all back together use yamaha marine grease, on the aluminum elbos to to the stainless rod use Tef Gel, going to need alot of heat, just keep the transom protected, wet rag, keep the heat centralized, use a acetalyn torch, not a can, be carefull, heat the bracket, not the tube or rod.Also use a good freeing lubricant like blaster or something, orrrrr open up the check book!!!!

Re: hyd. steering help
 

from the pictures the tube doesn't look to bad.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

All of that was to remove the tube, to remove the rod from the tube, heat the tube, alot!!!!! Bang it back and forth, eventually it will move, lots of hot, hot heat!!!!!and pentrating lubricant, even when it is hot, carefull of flame ups.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

I'm trying to remove the rod from the tube currently.

Re: hyd. steering help
 

what about removing the grease fittings and spraying in a penetrant. I was a little cautious about heating the as I was not sure what it was made from .

Re: hyd. steering help
 

I believe the tube is pressed in to the motor section of the bracket, so you have to heat what it's pressed into. Heating the tube itself will only make it tighter! That tube also carries the weight of the motor, so supporting the weight of the motor to take the load off the tube should also make it easier to remove. . . also try to find some Kroil, it could make a difference!

Re: hyd. steering help
 

The job is made a lot easier if you pull the motor. I have done several and they are no fun. :D

Re: hyd. steering help
 

okay an update. I know I will catch some grief but here goes.I could never get the stainless shaft that passes thru the tilt tube to break free,heat, beating with a large hammer and eventually a sledge hammer to no avail,so I ended up putting the attachment arms back on and leaving enough slack so that they rotate freely when the engine is tilted.I,ve run the boat and it works find and there is no binding when tilting the motor,The way I figure , it has been operating fine when it was in a bind and making the popping sound when tilted , and now with this setup I can move either side with my bear hands and there is no slop or play that I can detect.I know it will not meet the purists standards but it works for me .Total cost to repair with saw blades, bolts,washers and lubricants/penetrants,and 3 drill bits $18.00 .