hyd. steering help

BillPutney · #1 10-21-2008, 09:11 PM

I broke the bolt that connects the hyd. steering to the motor steering arm.It sounded like it was in a bind when I tilted the engine up,there was a loud pop. Should both sides of the mounting brackets move freely or is one of them mounted firmly.See pics.I had to take the brackets off to get to the broken off bolt.Any suggestions as to how to remove the broken off bolt.I removed the hyd. assembly so that I might be able to drill it out. The bracket you see still attached will not freely rotate. [image]

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Caymanboy · #2 10-21-2008, 10:30 PM

heat, and lots off it, got all sorts of thinks to worry about with it though, be carefull.

Old'sCool · #3 10-22-2008, 12:34 AM

The black cast pieces should rotate freely but not loose. I believe Sea Star has good instructions on WWW.

BillPutney · #4 10-22-2008, 07:26 PM

I put the torch to it and within 45 seconds the inner part started to melt,I did not realize it was not metal like the outer piece,see photo [image]http://

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BillPutney · #5 10-22-2008, 07:44 PM

After the torching , the inner part rotates freely but the metal arm is still very hard to move.Is this arm threaded on? The corresponding arm on the other side slid right off the shaft.

Old'sCool · #6 10-23-2008, 09:10 AM

Quote:

I put the torch to it and within 45 seconds the inner part started to melt,I did not realize it was not metal like the outer piece,see photo [image]http://

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The "stud" goes through the engine tube and is supposed to be loose (and greased). The bushing you melted, black cast alum., and stud should all be free to pivot when motor is tilted, but not so much to be sloppy. The starboard side should have a knurled (OD), threaded (ID) ring w/set screw to adjust the slop AFTER the lock nuts are tightened. Check their website for a drawing. Typically crud gets between all the stuff and you know the rest. A good soaking and understanding how it's built will help.

BillPutney · #7 10-23-2008, 07:57 PM

I just managed to break loose the arm , you were right it took lots and lots of extreme heat. I'm going to use some crocus cloth to polish up the shaft before i remount the arm.What should I grease the shaft with before mounting . After this lesson learned I will grease/lubricate this joint periodically from now on.

Old'sCool · #8 10-24-2008, 10:25 AM

Marine type grease. You can see the grease fittings in your pic.

Bushwacker · #9 10-24-2008, 01:24 PM

Use Kroil to loosen that broken off bolt. Let it soak in overnight and then apply some heat to the tiller arm, which should be steel, so a propane torch won't hurt it (but keep it away from motor cowl!). Best penetrating oil I've ever seen! Pratt & Whitney used to use it on seized bolts that saw 1200-1400F, temperatures that no anti-seize compound will survive. A friend of mine that has a side business overhauling turbochargers also uses it and swears by it. Good hardware stores carry it, but you can also order it direct or from Eastwood, the outfit that sells car restoration stuff.

BillPutney · #10 10-24-2008, 07:53 PM

okay guys I have just finished trying to get the shaft out of the tilt tube.I've gotten everything off both ends of the shaft soaked it and heated it .I put the lock nuts on both ends and hammered away with a 4# hammer that we use on the tractor occasionally , Nothing moves , only crushing the lok nut ends.Local Suzuki dealer says I need to replace the tilt tube , but obviously the shaft has to come out first.$64.00 for the tilt tube and none on the East coast,he located some in CA.$ 80.00/hr. for them to try and remove it and no idea as to how successfull the attempt might be.Any suggestions other than biting the bullet and saying FIX IT!!