coal tar epoxy vs interlux 2000e
 

which one should i use to coat my new gas tank. any difference in the prep work if there is any at all?

i use interprotect 2000e - nothing else

you need 2 colors - grey and white
this assures a full coverage - you want that coating approx 10mil thick - use a matchbook cover as a guide


prep:

clean with acetone - scuff sand,chemically etch prime,them coat it..

nothing will properly adhere to aluminum,without a chemical etch prime

What about Linus?

Sorry Line X.

why ?

seriously,why ?

epoxy products are waterproof - meaning,the aluminum is completley isolated from any moisture - read that as corrosion

now,i've seen and read of some backyard guys actually believing,if they fill the pinholes in a corroded tank,with marine tex,and then,wrap that corroded tank with fiberglass matting - using a polyester resin - common sense would tell us,this is a real bad idea,yes ?

i've seen a fuel tank coated with rhino liner - that coating failed,and failed miseribly...

sometimes,it's best not to try and reinvent the wheel - it's round and it rolls...

Line X is not Rhino crap. That`s why. Open your mind.

A very well respected builder uses something else.

And then we can talk about MMC.

The best thing about this site is the folks who care,
GFS

my mind is very open - allways willing to try new things - however,there's certain things i won't experiment with - one of them is fuel tank coatings,and the installation procedure i follow...i stick with what works,and what's accpetable to me,after all,if there's a problem with it - i gotta stand behind it...

just because a "well respected builder" uses it,doesn't make it a good idea,or the preferred method - i've seen plenty of "well respected builders" do some really stupid things - proline is a good example,i replaced a transom in an older proline - the core was CDX plywood stapled together,and pieced,stringers were the same material - not good huh ?

grady white is another - their cockpit deck hatches are supported by the fuel tanks - against codes - is that a good idea ? is that a good method ? their scuppers are under the waterline - depending on the load in the boat - no positive shut off - again,ABYC codes state that's wrong -is that a good method ?

get the point here ?

guys that are "in the buisness",like ol' don herman,and myself - see things in a different way than guys who are doing pojects in their backyards - don't read any disrespect into that,if you guys make a mistake,no big deal,you're gonna do it again,a follow a better procedure - "in the buisness",it's a little different - get the point ?

yep,i care - i hate to see people make a dumb move,i give "the voice of experience" - i try and save you a step - the "step" being,making a bad decision,that's gonna cause a problem down the line...

there's a great movie - pulp fiction - great line "a sewer rat may taste like pumpkin pie,i wouldn't know,'cause i would never eat the filthy motha *@#*er"

i'm open minded,but not that open minded...

Nice.

Colors on display. Richard. You Suck. Go away please.

GFS

how do you "chemically etch prime" it first? is there a product i can buy that does this? recommendations?

i dont care really about costs i want the best so it lasts. my wallet is the one thats says "BAD MOTHAF&CKER"

i use west system etch - there's a few others on the market...

hows it work.... kinda just roll it on? wash it off?

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?pid=12214 this the product?

that's it !

thanks fellas!

no problem

I just hopped on this thread but I'm dying to know is line-x not waterproof. And if you were to encapsulate this tank after being etched/primed and coated in line-x what would fail? If the line-x is a pure polyurea and can't absorb moisture I would see no problem. My guess is the rhino that fell off was a hybrid and may not have been prepped properly. I have personally sprayed aluminum tanks since 1999 and have yet to see a failure on a well prepped tank. Not all line-x is a pure polyurea so you would have to find a dealer near you that does a lot of light industrial work. There are over 100 different types of line-x products finding an applicator that applies the proper coating for the application is what you need. Line-x xs-350 is the product to look for. If you have any questions let me know. Pricing for a 100 gallon tank $275-$350 depending on dealer and what material they have in their lines. Changing over each way is about $75 of product loss. So if your interested you might have to wait a week or two. Good luck

"pricing for a 100gallon tank $275-$350 depending on the dealer"




using interprotect 2000e


interprotect 2000e barrier coat - retails for approx $90/gallon

gonna need approx 2 qts - 1 grey/one white

etch prime -approx $20 retail

this is what's required,materials wise,for that job...

Pulp Fiction.

Quotable.

Ospho. Its an acid based product so be careful about what you get it on.

Most procedures I have seen also add washing with detergent as the first step to remove tooling oil from when the aluminum is rolled. Also there are many different etching chemicals you could use. I personally have a gallon of Alumiprep that cost a fortune which I bought to prep an aluminum mud boat. If you can, try to find something locally because if you end up having to pay hazardous materials fees to ship the stuff it costs $$$ that could be better used elsewhere. The stuff goes a long way since they are often concentrated and require adding water so get a small container of it if you can and any old spray bottle to go with it. Make sure you rinse the stuff off well enough because it is acid.

update: Just noticed that somebody had posted a link to the West version at JD. The price looks quite a bit more reasonable than what I paid although it is for a much smaller portion. I wonder about their shipping.

page 4 of my 23' rebuild thread show in detail how to do this (coal tar)...

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...t=shine&page=4

http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_115.jpg

then later page 6 in the thread I show etching, priming an aluminum bracket.

Below is copied from my webiste....


Starting to prep the bracket for paint. I will make a separate post on the details of priming aluminum, but there are the basics so far. Acid wash, treat with alodine, prime with epoxy chromate primer, prime with epoxy high build, fair with epoxy fairing, primer some more, then paint with sterling top coat. Its a lot more work than just a powder coat job, but its should last a lot longer too - plus I wanted to paint it with the same paint/color as the boat. This was sort of fun, I have not used the chromate primer before. Pretty straight forward, but the etching,treating,chromate has to be done in one session. After the acid wash, while still wet, the treatment goes on, then the aluminum it dried and immediately primed to seal it up. I was able to get three thin coats on each side of the bracket in one afternoon - the chromate primer dries fast! The Sterling application guide covers this in detail. This is the same procedure for paint aircraft.

http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_475.jpg
acid wash
http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_480.jpg
http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_479.jpg
alodine treatment being sprayed on, then we brushed it around
http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_483.jpg
epoxy chromate primer. Immediately put a coat on both sides of bracket to seal off the air, then over the next 5 hours put 2 more coats on the top and bottom
http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_488.jpg

bracket is faired and ready for final primer. After the chromate epoxy primer, Sterling recommends building up a good thickness of epoxy high build primer before any sanding/fairing, this makes sure the barrier coat of chromate stays in tact.
So, I followed the instructions and rolled a few coats of Sterling highbuild primer on the whole bracket. After curing and a light sanding, I applied some Quick Fair to the welds and other places that were rough. After sanding QF, I put on another couple coats of sterling high build epoxy primer. The bracket is now ready for a final sand before paint.

please excuse the image quality on this batch of pictures, i made a one digit error when resizing them :oops:

http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_514.jpg
http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_512.jpg
http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_510.jpg


After fairing, and more primer, then comes topcoat.....


http://gallery.bateau2.com/albums/us..._shine_605.jpg