Trailer Advice
 

So I am trying to get my trailer ready for the Seacraft meet at Crystal River, and my leaf springs are in bad shape. So the question is, its a double axle trailer with leaf springs that are connected in the middle and I measured from bolt to bolt and they are like right at 21.5 from the middle of the bolt to the middle of the bolt.

So now I am trying to find the springs locally to replace them myself to save money, and I found these I figure with two sets of them that would be a maximum of 4,ooo lbs, which should be fine with a 20' Seacraft and a 115 motor I would think. Looking for advice, thanks.

Tom

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...y?cm_vc=-10005

Don't forget fuel and gear weight, as well as the weight of the trailer itself. Close maybe?
Actually,the weight of the axles, wheels and tires wouldn't count(on ground)so I suppose so.

http://www.tiedown.com/
check out these guys ... also hit ebay and amazon... you might be surprised at the prices ...just keep an eye on shipping cost


==== edit on tiedown.... they are wholesale only it appears now... hit the other 2...

Check out these guys......

http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/

I noticed on that site, that the springs were rated as individual ratings. On some other sites, the springs were rated for the axle rating (combined).

Don's suggestion is who I use. Great prices.

I use a local guy...and he has told me that if you are dipping in saltwater, no amount of rinsing will get you more than a few years on the springs. I use my trailer 2x a year and after 5 years new springs.

Terry speaks the truth. It's not difficult to change springs and associated hardware...with the boat off the trailer..., a few 4 1/2" cut off wheels, large hammer, some money, impact wrench and off you go! I think I've done it about 8 to 10 times on various trailers.

I upgraded my springs the last time from 1750# to 2000#, made a big difference in the trailer's stability. I think it was a $5 difference per spring. Oh yeah, remember to specify the 9/16" bolts! I've seen people use 1/2" bolts with a nylon spacer, no good in my opinion.

I rechecked my measurements and they are currently 21.5 inches but I assume as they have gotten wore out they have expanded out, so I am guessing that I still need the 20' ones. Thanks for the reminder on the bolt size. I am going to see if I can find some that will work locally, if not I will try Amazon/ebay as you guys suggested.

Thanks
Tom

Tom, here's another outfit I've used that has a good selection of parts.

One thing you might consider that might add a bit of life to the springs is spraying them with some LPS3 to penetrate between the leaves and then spray them with automotive undercoating before you install them. I did that to my 1985 EZ Loader roller trailer and I'm still running the original springs! I have inadvertantly dunked the springs a couple of times, although I don't normally have to dunk it. I've also repeated the LPS3 spray a couple of times.

BTW I emailed you a list I came up with of the weights of typical boat gear that might give you some idea of total boat weight.
Denny

This is what I do, every 4-5 years I just buy new ones. Change the bearings when I swap the springs and no worries. You can work your self to death trying to save them but I just replace and don't worry. Simple to do and don't cost too much. The 20 inch 3 leaf are only $16 each. The 5 leaf galvanized were around $32 each. The galv. hubs are only $18 each. They have way more in stock in our local store than on their web site.

springs

http://www.agrisupply.com/trailer-sp...e-eye/p/25444/

hubs:

http://www.agrisupply.com/galvanized...r-hub/p/59368/


We have a ag supply here that has similar springs. They carry ones like you mentioned in 3 leaf and in five. My trailer had the 3 leaf and I went to the 5 leaf. I have pulled my 20 (on there now) and my 23 with out motors on the same trailer. One thing I did do the second time around was to get the galvanized dipped ones instead of the regular black ones. They seem to last a little longer. They didn't have them the first trailer I did but do now in stock. They also started stocking the galvanized hubs too. I swapped the hubs and springs last time together and will do so again in a few years. Took the old ones and saved for spares and always keep a new set of bearings and a tube of grease in my truck when pulling it just in case. I quit having bearing problems once I started carrying spares. Go figure.

You are so right Frizz!!! Got a deal on a spare tire bracket for my trailer, which I never had before, just threw a spare in the back of the truck. Then to add more credence to Murphy's Law I put in a back up spare in the bed of the truck to go with the one on the trailer bracket for my trip to the Keys last month, you know...just in case. Sure as heck had my first flat in at least 20 years....never fails.

An ALUMINUM single axle trailer for my 20MA with a 375 lb outboard and a t-top is something like 3700 lb. I think a tandem axle steel trailer would be 4000 with your empty boat on it. Add gear and you are heavier. I had mine across the scales on Memorial Day.

I wish I had a single aluminum trailer with Torsion axles.

So, if I were to switch the 5 leaf springs those are 25 inches eye to eye so that is an increase of 10 inches how do I make that work, do I buy a smaller Y equalizer?

Most of the time I went to longer springs I have had to cut off the front and rear hangers and re-weld them further apart. You may could use a narrow equalizer and change shackles to make up small differences but 5" will require remounting the mounting points. The 5 leaf springs I got were only 23" or 23.5" if I remember right and I was able to make them work.

You get one of these tandem sliders to match the length of your springs, either 20" or 25 1/4" springs.
,
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Boa...gs_p_1413.html

Plus don't get hung up on the number of leafs in the spring. For example the 1750# 25 1/4" spring has four leafs or three, the 2000# has three and the 2500# has four. Buy the capacity you need. A 14" "C" rated tire has a 1760# capacity and if you match that to the 1750# springs you are at a tandem trailer with a 7000# capacity. More than enough for your boat with added safety built in, that was how my original trailer was for my 23'er. Good luck!

I am surprised they don't sell torsion axles. I got tired of the spring game and will never look back now that I have the right sized torsion axles.

They do, special order. There are six different "start angles" to pick from and five weight capacities from 2000# to 8000#. A 3500# galvanized kit with hubs is around $400+. A friend of mine just installed three of the 22.5 degree 3500#ers on his trailer with Kodiak SS brakes, serious money.

I'm with ya Moose, I don't see them on their web site. I have one of their catalogs and they're in there. Even though your trailer has to sit level with multiple torsion axles I'd put them on next time if I had the extra money. I had them on the last trailer I had built for my flats boat and they will spoil you!!!

ok one more measurement and pictures maybe this will help with the advice.

I measured the total distance between the front eye hole bracket and the final eye hole bracket which is 50 inches.

I do not want to have to remove the brackets and re-weld them.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8238/2...2434def4_c.jpg20160719_175158 by TomParisOBC, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8719/2...6ba1195d_c.jpg20160719_175203 by TomParisOBC, on Flickr

and a view of the other side

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8628/2...0499bb80_c.jpg20160719_175210 by TomParisOBC, on Flickr

Try expediter.com.
Large selection and great prices.

I`m with KMoose.
I went torsion 2 years ago and they are sooo smoooth.
I shot them with undercoating.

I like the torsion axles as well, but it sounds like you want to keep it simple. Here's one more.https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Sus...SP-169275.html
It looks like the rest of the hardware, except for a u-bolt or two are ok. I would add to launch the boat if you have some place to dock will make job way easier if you had not considered it.
Looks like there are spacers missing on rear axle.

roller trailer...

roller trailers,no need to get the trailer wet - backwheels will only touch the water...


torsion axles have problems too...

Sometimes my head gets really flat.
They are far smarter than I.
Trailer.
1974.
Hmmm.

Full rollers last a long time.
They really tried to help me understand this simple concept.

Dang Tom, those springs look pretty good to me!!! I usually wait to replace when the rust falls off in really big chunks!! :)

Well. terry thought so too. We'll I'll just buy a spare tire and hub.

Put a few wire ties around em and call it good. Actually, it should be a fairly easy trip for you along the coast. I might just be overly cautious after years ago, breaking down at 2am in Miami or almost loosing a wheel on the channel 2 bridge.

Well at least the Channel 2 bridge is flat! Would have been no fun losing a wheel on the Channel 5 bridge!!! :)

Ditto on the torsion axels!!!

Trailer Tip
 

Tom-
I'd say the most likely trailer failure on the road would be a tire or wheel bearing. I also carry a spare hub as you mentioned. And it will probably get you home. However, a new seal can quickly leak due to corrosion on the trailer spindle. Google Bearing Buddy Spindle Repair Kit to see a stainless steel ring to repair a corroded spindle- however because of its larger outer diameter it uses s special Seal from Bearing Buddy.
Another tip- with your tandem axle trailer, roll one wheel up on a thick piece of wood to remove the bad wheel.

If you don't want to move the mounts on each end you will not be able to run a larger spring pack. You might be able to gain some on each side but not much. the shackles will give a little but you don't want them to be jamming into the center bracket. Torsion axels are the best way to go if yo want to cough up the money for them. You would have to mount pads to the bottom of the channel to bolt them up on. the edge of the channel may work but it would be better with a landing pad to give them a wider resting place. I have 3 different magic tilt trailer about the same as the one you have. All galvanized dipped after welded solid. One has the slider that Don V mentioned which makes the axel position adjustable. Yours is straight welded and is non adjustable. The only way you can go wider is to cut the brackets on each end off and re-weld them or buy two new ones and add them past the ones you have now. You really don't want to do that even if you wanted to weld them up because this would spread your axel to axel center line and then your wheels will not be centered into your fenders. Best thing is to buy the same size springs you have now. You can get them in galvanized in the correct matching length you just will have to shop around to find them. One other thing you can do to add capacity is to add leafs to the new ones. You can take single leafs and stack them to the three that are on the pack you buy. if you do the 3 leafs and realize you need more just add the extra leafs in the original set. You may need a longer center bolt but you can change it out to a longer one. Yours really don't look that bad. And looking at them you only have 2 arched leafs. The bottom one looks like just an helper spacing it up. If here is no arch to it a new true 3 leaf spring with 3 full arched springs would be slightly better. I have a trailer right now with one spring that has an eye broke off and I pulled it over and hour like that with a seafari 20 on it after purchase. I plan on changing out all 4 when I get a chance. You decide to chance yours out, the middle leaf may be in nice enough shape to slap some black paint on it and add it to the new ones for some extra weight. The top one with the eyes are the ones that fail, just look good around the back side of the eye and make sure it looks good there. If they fail that's where the normally break. On the road bearings are the main thing to fail but instead of changing just them its better to do the hub set. With hub and bearing kit prices so cheep it is easier to swap them out vs changing the races out. You would need a press or would have to beating them out and back in. Just better to get the hub with the races already installed. Keep your old ones for spares.

Here you go, this is the deal here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Boat-Trail...-/260899109522

(4) springs for under $100. They are 20" 3 leaf 1750lbs rated.

Your axels are only 3500 lbs axels so going with heaver springs than 1750 would stiffen it up but you are still limited by the rest of the axel with 5 lug hubs and smaller straight axel spindles. Most 3500 lbs axels are straight spindles with two 1 1/16" or two 1" bearings. The 5000 lbs axels will have the tapered spindles with a smaller 1 1/16" outer and a 1 3/16" inner plus the hubs will be 6 lug also.

Trailer Hub Grease Packing Tip
 

Here is a tip I ran across the last time I rebuilt my trailer hubs. After inserting the grease packed inboard bearing and inboard seal into the hub, with your finger pack the annular area between the seal and bearing with grease, before putting the hub onto the spindle.
Your boating education will improve & there is a always something to learn or do better! Plus lot's of opinions like roller versus bunk trailers.

Talking about tips and such, one thing I learned the hard way a long time ago. When running the bearing buddies or automatic grease hub caps you never want to pump them full of grease all the way. I normally now just fully pack the inside of the hub voids with grease when installing and then pump the cap only about half way. The springs let the plunger travel an inch or so. This will give the grease a place to go when it gets hot and expands. The first few ended up on the road after the pressure blew them off. Then I added divits to keep them on tighter and they blew the rear seals out. It wrapped the back side of the wheels so full of grease that the trailer wheels vibrated going down the road from being out of balance. Not to mention slung grease everywhere.

A LOT of good info for you Tom, have you noticed how good we can spend your money!!! :)

I may have got them mixed up. I was about to go over the high rise bridge. Wound up taking the wheel off, going across that bridge with three wheels and finding a boat ramp at the other end. Launched boat, went to where I was staying and my buddy drove the trailer. Fun fun