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Extreme makeover 72 seafari 25 aloha edition
Aloha!
So I'm helping my friend get his boat back on water. He calls it ours (he's the money, I'm the muscle). It's a 72 seafari 25. Originally twin I/o's converted to an outboard. I've been inspired by Strick and Blue_Heron on here. don't expect to be in the same league budget or craftsmanship. But with the boards knowledge. I'm gonna do some stuff to it. Saltwater fishing/cruiser boat. In it's current config. It's made the trip from big island to Maui which is really saying something as the channel means "strong blowing winds". Needs: Trailer Transom Outboard bracket Helm Painting Hardtop Electrical Fuel Fiberglassing Interior It's been sitting 3 years. Got the motor started. Now onto body work. https://i.postimg.cc/Typ40qKf/147-CD...298-F97-B0.jpg |
Nice project. 25 seafari in Hawaii . . . did you get this from bigfluke?
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Don't think so. We are on Big Island, Hilo area. Big Fluke in Hawaii too?
----------- So let's start at the beginning. My buddy (hereafter we) purchased this boat. We went out to tow it home. Yes, that is a steel boxed rail frame trailer used exclusively in saltwater here. It has seen better days. The PO had to weld a gusset b/c it had so many holes it didn't throw a shadow. The grease caps are missing and it took a whole tube of grease to repackage the zinc fittings for the short but off road and down a mountain journey to our boatyard (my backyard). The surge brakes are bone dry and ft he cap was immovable. The hitch is so rusty that we weren't even sure it locked in place but we successfully made the trip. We are trying to get a local brothah to weld us an aluminum one. In meanwhile, new actuator, winch, strap, and brakes are on way. https://i.postimg.cc/phBcX07Q/814634...A91-B7-D19.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/4mP2TFtX/CE91EC...B31C0DF67A.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/HJqB2GG9/C95D17...557AEEB89B.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/ZBNDtbPQ/EEEDF5...BE6740AED1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/y3TzPd0L/ED8CEA...B505B2AD4E.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xchS3WmD/E92344...97C9926F22.jpg After taking a look at the boat. That is a truck bed tool box on right that has a foam seat on top. And a DIY wood box on left with a foam seat on top. Both had their own ecosystems going from the foam used. Ingenious but time for some upgrades. https://i.postimg.cc/HVsLNDjr/318546...987E9A4DD1.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/2qvjWC9K/FA9E6F...A7D2C68468.jpg We decided to prioritize engine repair, fuel system, and electrical system. Engine Wouldn't start and no spark. 3 year old gas. Stink of the fuel tanks was enough to make me puke...literally. This is the hose drain plug Suzuki installed. This is a picture of dried salt that has been sitting in here for years. Took a while but it is cleaned out now. Still need to clean injectors, replace all rubber hoses and on and on the story goes. But hey, she's running! Motor dried salt https://i.postimg.cc/qth1yJF7/E284F4...E16C049641.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/KKQLdrxb/6B9C9A...1E7EF821D6.jpg You might call this a redneck repair. We call this island Effeciency. Or you know you puna when... Motor and bracket https://i.postimg.cc/hfVgbnHp/B09543...0093E6D4A6.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/XBdM8KDp/C6D82C...0925CED77E.jpg It actually worked quite well according to PO. My friend and I decided we weren't gonna try it out. We are replacing with a Hermco style double with swim from a local builder. During the course of investigation, we found rotten transom and partially rotten rib (battery boxes are) due to swamp pictured below. I have been inspired by Blue_Heron and I will grind down fiberglass install foam and glass it in to try to funnel this out.... Transom first, rib second... More updates to come. We built a gantry crane and an engine stand. The engine has been removed. The outboard bracket has been removed. The DIY rigging sleeve has been removed. On to cutting back the deck and transom removal. Trying not to remove the cap if I can help it. Wish me luck... |
Too bad you're not close by, there's a "metal scavenger" guy who comes through the neighborhood about every week or so. He will actually cut the trailer up and haul it away to sell as scrap, which would be nice and convenient for you and your trailer :)
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BIG project, my sympathy, but the first time you take it out in rough water, you will know for sure it was worth it.
There is so much room under the deck, you will be able to do most anything you need to do without pulling the cap ( skinny and flexible helps). Pull the fuel tanks, cut an access hole between the bunks and you should be golden. Be sure to reinforce the forward section of the hull, Potter made a mistake when he omitted the water ballast tank and did not add some reinforcement to take care of the reinforcing that was omitted. Welcome to CSC and good luck with a great project |
Ty cd. I'm not sure we'd attempt this stuff without this board. Great info and people here.
--------- So we built a gantry crane and engine stand. The crane will serve multiple purposes: Engine removal Trailer removal Boat safety during sanding And many other vehicle repairs. https://i.postimg.cc/1nQmcbL5/679FA7...5FC847049D.jpg The engine stand works great. Decided to bolt it back down. Was just a little too wobbly otherwise. But it's holding up the 340lb beast great. If you want the plans just pm me. https://i.postimg.cc/R6XRLxNc/AFD0BB...BD5123452E.jpg The swim deck and bracket are removed. Now have 24 holes to patch. Removed the tub section to access transom. Wish I would have just cut the cap now.... Transom has some weird bolts in back of it in top edge (may not be pictures. Below is the rot and precious repairs) but they don't go through the fiberglass maybe lag bolts. Will check this out later. Any ideas appreciated. You can see previous repairs are areas of leakage and time to just git'r done. https://i.postimg.cc/34XM8Rf3/888A44...B42D513140.jpg Unwrapped this rigging tape. I'm not familiar with it but looks like saltwater has really done a number on some cables here. They'll be replaced. We have a new rigging sleeve on order. Gonna look around CSC for good ways to route this under deck in tub so it's not visible and more protected. If anybody has ideas, please share. Been siphoning gas for a while. Planning to get the tanks out for a cleaning. check under deck and bulkheads for reinforcement and this drainage idea of using foam and fiberglass to eliminate the swamp. Gonna be relocating the batteries forward to counter balance the outboard... Eventually will get around to removing this hardtop but I'm focusing on getting this transom done and unrigging everything. Lots and lots of labeling/deconstruction. All in all a really good day. |
Help Needed Please
Help needed please....
Anyone know what the stringers are made of on a 72? Wood, foam, hollow? I've found termites in the transom, so I'm doing major investigation, now. |
Should be foam filled hollow glass
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Sorry for the delay, lots going on in life and research. Gas tanks are removed they were wrapped in fiberglass. I'll have to pressure test and see why that was done.
https://i.postimg.cc/34XM8Rf3/888A44...B42D513140.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Mnpz9yPV/26F1FA...EDE99FCA97.jpg We found the transom was rotten in our deconstruction. Massive water damage and inadequate glass work. The keyholes were glasses with a coating of 1708 and then had multiple holes drilled in them. In addition, we found termites in the upper portion of the transom (picture below): It's taken hours and hours to remove this thing. 1. Remove fiberglass covering plywood in roughly 2' squares for ease of removal. (In retrospect I wish I had put a circular saw set to depth of 1 7/8 on a 2 1/4 deep wood piece) to make this so much easier on #1 &3) 2. Rotten wood was very easy to remove. 3. Began cutting around edges and making cuts for wood to break on. Burned through lots of oscillating blades here. 4. Various chisels, pry bars, sanding to get out the various plys. 5. I finally got enough leverage to take out some serious chunks after finding the staples and removing. 6. Pic below is roughly 1/4" wood. Below that is a ply skin soaked with the resin and below that is the CSM fibers. I have located some meranti marine grade plywood. Only 1 provider on my side of island. Now have 3-3/4" 4x8 sheets just waiting to go in. To do finish removal. Grind down delaminating (or disbonded) fiberglass at bottom of transom. Hull Repair work: https://i.postimg.cc/mtPj02by/8FBDAF...6B02F994F7.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/LgXD4mjR/69AFFE...B5C4DCD2EF.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/ThYCJJFS/748A42...B96A3D02F4.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/V5DZxVXm/B3F0EF...51E39D8EFD.jpg Patch inboard holes properly 1. will layup 2 layers of 1.5 oz CSM and a layer of 18oz roving inside of tub (may do this 2x for strength? Or any suggestions on a unidirectional cloth? 2. Grind down exterior around 3" out and layup 1708 from outside in overlapping from big to small 6 or more plys.... 3. Pva, cure, fair and sand. 4. Make cardboard template for plywood 5. Start prepping plywood (glue and glass) 6. Glass it in. 7. Move on to other things (electrical, fuel, hardtop, painting, helm controls, cabin, for starters...) Ps have I told you how much I love this boat? Suggestions on cutting back stringers? Filling them with float foam? Will end up with several coats of fiberglass (3 fill internal hull) (3on transom) (3 backside of transom) If I'm messing up please give me a suggestion. Thanks! |
so here's some more stuff:
after I completed this part of it, I went more after the engine. I was concerned about it's state and what we would have to do if I couldn't get it running. Long story short I never want to tear a 20 yr old saltwater outboard apart again... ps: here's some of my treasures after surgery. my stones were 10-12mm I had several in each kidney. one surgery the dr said when I hit it with a laser it exploded and you have shrapnel everywhere in there that you will have to pass. http://i63.tinypic.com/35aom8j.jpg http://i66.tinypic.com/21orokg.jpg yes, this is a bent flywheel on a 96 Suzuki dt200. got it off and have a new one for it, now. http://i67.tinypic.com/2m0dqo.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/xnal4m.jpg http://i63.tinypic.com/287lu21.jpg so here's the massive outboard teardown. got a new lower unit, new seals, new wristpins, cylinder rings, cir clips, injectors, gaskets, and more. just about a total tear down and complete rebuild |
Sorry you had such a rough time! Glad to see you working on the boat again.
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And I thought mine was a lot of work! Hats off to you for sticking with a big job! Looking forward to seeing some pics of your first trip offshore.
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Float material advice
I’ll try to add some pics later...
Between the aft bulkhead and mid bulkhead, there was a large amount of float foam under the fuel tanks. I’m doubting this was factory. There was no seeming way for water to drain to any bilge pumps. This soaked foam and water were held up against the wooden bulkheads and caused them to rot. I’ve removed this foam and am replacing the bulkheads. Positive buoyancy makes sense to me. But not having proper drainage makes no sense. So advise me please 1. Would you suggest installing drain tubes fore to aft and float foam around them Or 2. leave area open and put pool noodles and a bilge pump or two in there? Bulkheads will be made out of thermolite (like coosa board). Ty and hope all had a happy and safe 4th! |
Leave the bilge open to breathe. No foam and for godsakes No Pool Noodles. They would rot before you brushed your teeth the next morning. Where in the hell did you get that idea? Spidercrab? Why do you think Potter had vents in all models for over 12 years........
Keep the moisture out Think about it ! |
Sounds like mine, foam under the fuel tanks and cabin, poor drainage. Same issue with the bulkheads, foam + water + wood bulkheads = ROT, I hate foam. My foam was factory. At least forward, it looked like Potter tried to replace the lateral reinforcement that Moesley would have had to include, with foam. Seemed to work ok on many boats; mine took the best part of 40 years to fail.
I removed all the foam in the process of replacing bulkheads(with holes for air circulation) and added a couple of full height bulkheads under the cabin and some low ones under the fuel tanks. Much stronger now and didn't add much net weight. If you decide to not replace the foam, be sure and add some reinforcing bulkheads and extend the forward stringers to the forwardmost bulkhead. Be careful of making hard spots; don't ask me how I know this. |
got the pool noodles idea from here:
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...t=pool+noodles I wanted to get flotation and drainage... ty cdavis: I'll have to think through what to do here on this one. Adding bulkheads and lateral support makes sense if the foam is gone. Getting it out from under the cabin is going to be a real pain. I'd like the extra floatation as i'm going way out there. my side of the island has 4-8ft all the time. the leeward side is like bath water. I have plans to cross the Alenuiha'ha channel (or I'll-end-you-ha-ha channel), it means roughly strong winds crashing in Hawaiian. the boat did that in the past and I hope to keep it going in the future. |
If the foam under the cabin is intact, not cracked and getting shifted out of place, you are probably fine. I'd watch it though. Look for stress cracks in the chines below the foam and near where the bulkheads are.
There are some real good threads(with lots of pics) about working in this boat, mine, Strick's and Blue_heron particularly. Cut a hole in the deck in the cabin and there is room to work under the deck(helps to be skinny as me). The search function should bring'em up. |
So I finally got the aft bulkhead templated and began filleting in.
https://ibb.co/wsk2qZv I’ve removed the bulkhead under the cockpit severe rotting again... bottom third was just gone. Mush https://ibb.co/9r9rymS After the bulkhead came out, was able to remove foam easily. Forward bulkhead is rotted clear through too. https://ibb.co/QYr2jNg I’ll need to sort out drainage soon. Fore to aft. Planning to install bilge in forward area. Will Extend stringers as suggested, and lay down some fresh glass and gelcoat. And add some cross braces that will support tanks and tie the sides together. |
How long had that boat been sitting?
Try to use it with bulkheads like that and it should have shimmied like a hula dancer. |
Quite awhile. The previous owner just got in over his head I think. The outboard had an overheating issue. Then water and termite damage. It just got away. He was nearly in tears the day we hauled it off.
On another note. It’s registered as a 72 on my paperwork. This model predates hid’s. I found this data on the sticker on the helm. Any ideas on decoding it? Model: 25 CTO (maybe CIO). Serial: 25037. The serial seems self explanatory. No hid on transom and haven’t found it elsewhere. Any suggestions appreciated |
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Yes, exactly except mine is in center of helm...
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Mine has the same label. Its is a 1972, serial no 25034, model no 25 CTO. Fla registration shows FLZE5594A572-25034. Not sure when the state came up with that number.
Notice the weight for engines/gas and passengers. They needed so much weight for those two 165 1/0s most of the boats came with that there wasn't much left over for passengers. Mine, with a single 350 easily carries more weight in passengers and gear. The total is still within the sum of those two numbers. |
So weather has not cooperated to do fiberglassing. It’s been upper 80’s and low 90’s with rain on the right temp days....
Was able to: 1. remove foreword bulkhead and cut it’s replacement out. 2. Grind down the stringers. a. Dagger had a 4” board maybe a 2x4 once upon a time for the shelf support will never know b/c it was mush. b. Grind down adjacent stringers- there was a piece of wood and a fiberglass shelf installed (looks like non oem to me) 3. Tabbing looks good under deck but may reinforce when I do bulkheads 4. Cutout new dagger “risers” out of thermolite (read coosa board) no coosa suppliers on my island but it’s the same idea foam and fiberglass board. 5. Began sanding the deck down... just ruined my 3rd orbital sander on this project... going to buy 2 more Monday. Very proud of my 10 y/o son who’s been out there with me sanding and helping me cut and make bulkheads. 6. Pressure tested the fuel tanks- no leaks. Not pictured I cut a 3” piece of hdpe in half and will make channel ways for water on the hull... once I figure how to cut them out. I have a drum sander attachment for a drill/Dremel tool. Now where is it?! https://i.postimg.cc/62bbDdTR/28-F7-...E1-C27-FE5.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/VrkHG7sm/930-B1...642971-FFF.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/7CVWNvkK/CA0-FD...5-D79774-D.jpg It’s been a hot/itchy week. |
Time for another update. Plus side of corona is I have more time to work on it.
All bulkheads swapped out and installed Limber holes cut in. Rear cap was reattached (cut off for transom) Rear decks re-installed Bow rail removed Windshield, port lights etc removed Sanded Surfaces to 320 grit. -on my 5th orbital sander - still have to take boat off trailer and sand bottom. Here’s pics of the teak work. Yes natural teak and varnish are not good mixes. Key is sealing the wood to keep oil in and water out. Either one can and will make varnish crack. Yes, someone cut one of the racks. I don’t have the pieces and I don’t have time to rebuild it at the moment. One day I plan too. Had to strip all the paint off of them. Used jabsco, Watco refinisher, putty knife, 0000 steel wool, and sand paper. Did wonders on the racks and the door. Wish I had better pics of that before and after. https://i.postimg.cc/xqf8GdsB/468-E8...913-DB7-B7.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/w1mjxRvR/BC5020...69-E621967.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/w7PBdQ6d/C3-BFF...D85039-D46.jpg Sanded to 320 3-5 coats of teak oil 3-5 coats of amber (waxed) shellac. 800 grit between coats. I love the amber on teak. Shellac is alcohol based and dries very fast. If you get runs, use shellac or denatured alcohol to level off. 5-6 coats Pettit flagship varnish- used 800 grit between coats. 2000 on last coats and still need to buff with compound and buffer. https://i.postimg.cc/JyQmtNW0/9497-B...EB840-A274.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/phq2cD04/9-F568...C6-E074-AE.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/5jK4wSQF/C14-B0...5195348-EF.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/xXM9VrxK/F03156...-AF0-C22-E.jpg More to come. I’ve been fairing and sanding and fairing and sanding. Should have decks and hatches done soon Will take off the trailer and paint soon... |
Windows are on the agenda.
Removed all glass from front and is in good shape with some cleaning. All 4 plexiglass pieces are 4 different thicknesses. I’ve read factory is 3/16” and I’ve read 1/4”. Ironically, not one piece is 3/16” that I removed. .152, .220, .243, .258 3/16” is .1875. So I’m at a complete loss. Also I called American marine. The rep couldn’t tell me how much to use but did send me samples. To-139 looks to be right thing. For portlights, triangular plexiglass pieces, and front windshield glass). The cable channel on back of windshield is something else. I’ll update once I find it again. Downside is they told me it is $5/ft. Any other sources? Any actual lengths to buy? Looks like 17-20’ for both portlights, 17-20’ for each triangular plexiglass and haven’t added up the four pieces for windshield but looks like a lot... That’s $300 before the 4 pieces and that would make it $500ish I’m guessing. Suggestions? Anybody tried black silicone instead? Just saying... |
Awesome job on the teak!
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Thank you, sir. Very kind of you.
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Got your phone call sorry for not responding...been busy...I don’t know how thick the glass was on my 25 Safari because it’s been so long ago that I sold it...you’re going to want to use the American marine inserts as they are the original manufacturers for seacraft. I used tempered glass on all my windows but Plexiglass should work...good luck!
Strick |
Thanks strick. I understand your schedule after getting your vmail. God bless man.
I’m not positive but my research indicates originally it was glass on front (mine still has original) and plexiglass on side triangles and portlights. I just can’t figure out thickness like I mentioned. I’ve heard 3/16” and 1/4” was original. And my boat has no 3/16” on it (the 4 pieces of plexiglass are all different). American marine sent me samples. Tp-139 looks to be right from my searches and the sample. That stuff at $5/ft is rough on the wallet. Any ideas on total length needed? I read somewhere else here 17-20’ for portlights My measurements look like 17-20’ for triangular windshields I haven’t measured 4 piece front, yet but guessing will be 30-40’ |
Made some more progress today.
How to take this beast off the trailer. Step 1 get boat stands. IIRC it’s 2 mb-2’s and 2 sb-3’s from brownell boatstand.com Step 2 get lots and I mean lots of cribbing it’s about 3-4 4x6x8’s Step 3 build one huge gantry crane. It’s 2x4x8’s on bottom. 4x4x10’s for uprights. 2x8x10’s glued, nailed and through bolted for top cross member. 2x4’s cross braces on legs. 2-2x4’s nailed together to make cross braces on top. I used 1/2” x 8” galvanized bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts. Need a huge come-along and a big ratchet strap (redundancy more than capacity) https://i.postimg.cc/p9H7V485/602-B8...661379-BFE.jpg Here it is! https://i.postimg.cc/QBJzFmk4/523-B3...B05-F36-F4.jpg Cribbing is installed but not pictured. And let the bottom sanding begin! Maybe I’ll switch to paint stripper this stuff is dusty and nasty. https://i.postimg.cc/gn1QQn2D/CC4977...-BD67-F1-C.jpg |
I now understand what Strick meant by unique views of your boat.
The bottom paint has been stripped and sanded off. The whole bottom and topside has been sanded to 150 grit. Next we have some old repairs to redo and some small scrapes and dings to clean up. Here it is before getting it all off: https://i.postimg.cc/6ykTg77X/74-A9-...BC50-EEB22.jpg Here’s after 2 coats of stripper. Still lots left. https://i.postimg.cc/N595d8jD/CB276-...9-A51081-E.jpg Channeling my inner strick. I couldn’t help wondering if my life insurance would cover this. https://i.postimg.cc/CdKZqpyW/4003-C...DAB7204805.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/y3Wk4cXV/602222...5-A3-FD9-F.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/FdT7BDSW/5-BB86...EE0-A8-DBA.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/94V0Xvtg/ABF929...4-B1127978.jpg Next week priming, weather permitting! |
Perfect boat for where you live...what stripper are you using? My MA has bottom paint to remove
strick |
Hull is primed! I can’t wait to splash this thing but it’s supposed to rain for 2 weeks. No idea if I’ll get painting done in meanwhile.
I ran into a guy at the dock who has a sceptre. We had a fun conversation. I used jasco premium. It’s water based but still caustic. There’s got to be better options but I have very limited options On the island (or very expensive and long wait times.) https://www.homedepot.com/p/Jasco-1-...R500/308267695 I put it on Really thick with the biggest brush I could find. 4 or 5inch. Left it in the sun to work about 30mins-1hour. Then pressure washed it with highest nozzle I had (3300 psi?). No issues with blistering later or other weirdness. First application took off this weird brownish wax-like substance. Then the second application took it down to bottom 2 layers. I used 2-3 gallons. It was faster but still had to get the orbital out. We both know what that’s like. |
https://i.postimg.cc/7GCdxFVW/2-A601...AE8-AD77-A.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/sBHbCjpW/126347...729905-CA9.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/2qSgtbBm/139-E2...02-E435393.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/hXrHMbvp/3044-A...-BB4-E6-B7.jpg Took 2 gallons of primer to shoot whole hull. Still haven’t primed cap and cockpit but that’s coming. One coat of glossy paint on the bottom. Going to let it dry and cure. Spot sand a couple of runs...and scuff rest with scotch brite and add second coat. My plan is to do the bottom with 2-3 coats depending on my supplies and how it looks. Then mask that off with plastic and paint the top band (largo blue by interlux). Once that’s done I’ll mask the sides off and prime and paint the cap and cockpit. All suggestions welcomed. |
Coming along nicely! Enjoying watching your plan coming together
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Perfect Thanks! I'm now where near that point yet but it looks like it worked good for you. Thats gonna be a real nice ride when it's done. They kinda resemble a missile in there stripped down state lol
strick |
I can’t wait. Be careful and wear ppe. That stuff may be water based but it’ll still burn your skin and irritate your eyes. I figured I might as well get something that dilutes with water but still had irritation.
They do look awesome. My friends keep saying how beautiful it is... I think they just want to go fishing. 😃 The primer and the bottom paint are nearly the same color but different sheens. Will hopefully put some blue on tomorrow or Friday. Paint just dried and sky opened up with rain. Phew. |
So here’s the first coat of blue on. I love the blue. The gray, ah. Maybe white would’ve been better. Not sure. My son and wife love it, so...
I am color blind so whatever. https://i.postimg.cc/GHmnrwvb/9E0E59...E0E044FC8F.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Hj21fscS/44AFAE...1EDC02B114.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/F1mQWJRd/1BFC7B...9D2B89551A.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/Fk957wqg/B92547...0A671C4561.jpg Scuff with scotch brite pad tomorrow and 2nd coat. |
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