coal tar epoxy vs interlux 2000e
 

which one should i use to coat my new gas tank. any difference in the prep work if there is any at all?

i use interprotect 2000e - nothing else

you need 2 colors - grey and white
this assures a full coverage - you want that coating approx 10mil thick - use a matchbook cover as a guide


prep:

clean with acetone - scuff sand,chemically etch prime,them coat it..

nothing will properly adhere to aluminum,without a chemical etch prime

What about Linus?

Sorry Line X.

why ?

seriously,why ?

epoxy products are waterproof - meaning,the aluminum is completley isolated from any moisture - read that as corrosion

now,i've seen and read of some backyard guys actually believing,if they fill the pinholes in a corroded tank,with marine tex,and then,wrap that corroded tank with fiberglass matting - using a polyester resin - common sense would tell us,this is a real bad idea,yes ?

i've seen a fuel tank coated with rhino liner - that coating failed,and failed miseribly...

sometimes,it's best not to try and reinvent the wheel - it's round and it rolls...

Line X is not Rhino crap. That`s why. Open your mind.

A very well respected builder uses something else.

And then we can talk about MMC.

The best thing about this site is the folks who care,
GFS

my mind is very open - allways willing to try new things - however,there's certain things i won't experiment with - one of them is fuel tank coatings,and the installation procedure i follow...i stick with what works,and what's accpetable to me,after all,if there's a problem with it - i gotta stand behind it...

just because a "well respected builder" uses it,doesn't make it a good idea,or the preferred method - i've seen plenty of "well respected builders" do some really stupid things - proline is a good example,i replaced a transom in an older proline - the core was CDX plywood stapled together,and pieced,stringers were the same material - not good huh ?

grady white is another - their cockpit deck hatches are supported by the fuel tanks - against codes - is that a good idea ? is that a good method ? their scuppers are under the waterline - depending on the load in the boat - no positive shut off - again,ABYC codes state that's wrong -is that a good method ?

get the point here ?

guys that are "in the buisness",like ol' don herman,and myself - see things in a different way than guys who are doing pojects in their backyards - don't read any disrespect into that,if you guys make a mistake,no big deal,you're gonna do it again,a follow a better procedure - "in the buisness",it's a little different - get the point ?

yep,i care - i hate to see people make a dumb move,i give "the voice of experience" - i try and save you a step - the "step" being,making a bad decision,that's gonna cause a problem down the line...

there's a great movie - pulp fiction - great line "a sewer rat may taste like pumpkin pie,i wouldn't know,'cause i would never eat the filthy motha *@#*er"

i'm open minded,but not that open minded...

Nice.

Colors on display. Richard. You Suck. Go away please.

GFS

how do you "chemically etch prime" it first? is there a product i can buy that does this? recommendations?

i dont care really about costs i want the best so it lasts. my wallet is the one thats says "BAD MOTHAF&CKER"

i use west system etch - there's a few others on the market...