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  #1  
Old 06-17-2012, 07:02 AM
jgrisham jgrisham is offline
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Default 1973 Tsunami to Center Console Conversion

Ok so I picked up a 23 Tsunami/Scepter for short money and I am looking to convert her to a center console, pretty much the same way this boat was done except without the livewell. http://s728.photobucket.com/albums/w...view=slideshow


So for my first few questions: Does this fuel tank look like stainless to anyone else? Whats the chances that the "314" written on top of the tank is in fact the grade of steel used?

It looks like provisions may have been made to allow for "breathing" around the tank to prevent corrosion.

I am on a very tight budget and would rather not fork out 1k for a tank but at the same time, I don't want to die in a fiery explosion. Which of you forum members would risk keeping this tank? Thanks
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  #2  
Old 06-17-2012, 07:16 AM
DonV DonV is offline
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The welds in the second picture, along with the fill elbow makes me want to say yes.
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  #3  
Old 06-17-2012, 07:18 AM
DonV DonV is offline
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Actually I meant to say it's a vent elbow, my mistake.
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  #4  
Old 06-17-2012, 08:00 AM
pelican pelican is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgrisham View Post
Ok so I picked up a 23 Tsunami/Scepter for short money and I am looking to convert her to a center console, pretty much the same way this boat was done except without the livewell. http://s728.photobucket.com/albums/w...view=slideshow


So for my first few questions: Does this fuel tank look like stainless to anyone else? Whats the chances that the "314" written on top of the tank is in fact the grade of steel used?

It looks like provisions may have been made to allow for "breathing" around the tank to prevent corrosion.

I am on a very tight budget and would rather not fork out 1k for a tank but at the same time, I don't want to die in a fiery explosion. Which of you forum members would risk keeping this tank? Thanks
stainless steel is a poor choice for a fuel tank- stainless is prone to failure at welds,along with it being prone to crevice corrosion...
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  #5  
Old 06-17-2012, 10:28 AM
jgrisham jgrisham is offline
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Boats gonna be put to the test so I'm trying to think ahead a little.

Will a .25" Moeller Cross linked poly tank hold up to the abuse of daily pounding offshore?
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  #6  
Old 06-17-2012, 08:16 PM
kneedeep kneedeep is offline
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Location: fl panhandle
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welcome aboard. where you fishing out of? show us some pictures of the boat as she sits now. what's your plans for power. just remember to take on 1 part of the project at a time,complete that then move on to the next.
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  #7  
Old 06-17-2012, 10:38 PM
jgrisham jgrisham is offline
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Hi Kneedeep, I'm on Cape Cod. The pics don't look like much, but I must say I am extremely impressed with the solidness of the deck, and the general condition of the gelcoat.

The only real structural issue I have found is with one of the engine bed/mounts. It seems like the mount is delaminated, i'm guessing it got water in a bolthole and freeze/thaw cycle did it in. Should be an easy fix.

Probably gonna throw a gm small block and use the I/O the PO had rebuilt.

BTW your project gave me the grapes to tackle it, thank you.

If you don't mind me picking your brain I have quite a few questions to ask about how to make things go smoothly.
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  #8  
Old 06-18-2012, 01:16 AM
McGillicuddy McGillicuddy is offline
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The 73 Tsunami was damn near perfect. Hate to see one get carved up, but hey, it's your boat. Any chance I could get the balance of the cap, bulkhead and windshield from you? For cheap?

Good luck with your project. Knee Deep did a heck of a job! I'm sure he'll be a tremendous resource
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  #9  
Old 06-18-2012, 08:46 AM
jgrisham jgrisham is offline
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Mcgillicuddy, if, i'm correct you are on the west coast? Might not be cost effective to ship 3k miles.lol If you are close by PM me and you can come check out what I have. I am trying to toss out as much as possible so it doesn't create to much of a pile as I work. Point being don't waste time getting back to me.
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  #10  
Old 06-18-2012, 03:59 PM
jgrisham jgrisham is offline
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Cabin, bulkhead, and windshield are off. I unbolted the center section of the windshield, slid it out, and cut the cabin in half. It was too heavy for me to manhandle in one piece.

For those who may attempt this, a valuable tip is to screw a piece of 1x6 to the circular saw base, this raises the saw guide enough get the blade a little closer to the curve thus saving more usable rail. It also lets you guide the saw from a better location.

I used an old carbide blade, cut through like it was nothing, with very little dust compared to a grinder/mason blade.
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