23 tsunami anchor bulkhead removal

[abl1111]

Found a soft spot where my starboard, forward rail stanchion mounts on the forward deck. It's a small, 10-12" semi circle from the stanchion base. The repair from the bottom is tough / tight due to the anchor locker bulkhead. Thinking that going from bottom would be easier if the bulkhead were removed.

Does this sound like a better idea than a surface repair ?

If not, ok -

But, if so, I think I know how to go about the removal and replacement. Are there any hidden challenges ?

[jorgeinmiami]

The challenge is that the bad area may be bigger than you think. Hope thats not the case.
But ask me how I know

[kmoose]

Originally Posted by abl1111

Found a soft spot where my starboard, forward rail stanchion mounts on the forward deck. It's a small, 10-12" semi circle from the stanchion base. The repair from the bottom is tough / tight due to the anchor locker bulkhead. Thinking that going from bottom would be easier if the bulkhead were removed.

Does this sound like a better idea than a surface repair ?

If not, ok -

But, if so, I think I know how to go about the removal and replacement. Are there any hidden challenges ?

Split it vertically right down the center and save for template. Replace the same way.

[abl1111]

The bow feels very solid. Looking underneath, the wood under the glass is all bright - but, near this stanchion base, you can see the darkness of rotted, mildewed wood in a 3-4" area. So, I know the wood a few more inches in each directions will be wet.

If I could cut the bulkhead as Moose mentioned ( the way I envisioned it too ), then remove the bulkhead - do the repair, then, make a new bulkhead, in (2) pcs, then re-install, using wedges to hold the two pcs in place - epoxy them, re-laminate with faux teak - I think this would be easier than going through the top.

If it weren't cosmetic, going through the trip would be much easier.

So, assuming I do it from underneath - while there, is there anything I could/should do to fortify the area ?

[kmoose]

Originally Posted by abl1111

The bow feels very solid. Looking underneath, the wood under the glass is all bright - but, near this stanchion base, you can see the darkness of rotted, mildewed wood in a 3-4" area. So, I know the wood a few more inches in each directions will be wet.

If I could cut the bulkhead as Moose mentioned ( the way I envisioned it too ), then remove the bulkhead - do the repair, then, make a new bulkhead, in (2) pcs, then re-install, using wedges to hold the two pcs in place - epoxy them, re-laminate with faux teak - I think this would be easier than going through the top.

If it weren't cosmetic, going through the trip would be much easier.

So, assuming I do it from underneath - while there, is there anything I could/should do to fortify the area ?

Just go way beyond the compromised core and replace with som Coosa and patch glass it in. It will be plenty strong.

[abl1111]

I've re-thought this and think that going through the top would be best as working from underneath, against gravity - sux! and, the wet area could be more than I think ( it usually is ).

So, has anyone done a core repair on the foredeck of a Tsunami / Sceptre ?

My approach, as with most core repair - ID extent of wet core with drilling, cut off skin, dig out old, re-core, glass, fair and either gelcoat or awl grip ( I prefer gelcoat but my color matching skills are poor )

Question - what's the rough layup of the glass that's underlying the core ? Is it rigid enough to withstand weight when I weigh down the glassed in core to set ?

[abl1111]

Any resto guys still out there ?

[FLexpat]

I THINK it is very similar to the cockpit deck layup with a layer of mat and a layer of roving a little under 1/10" thick as the bottom skin (underneath the 3/8" balsa/plywood core)- it has been a really long time since I was into that area though and I did not take pics (plus I have killed a lot of brain cells since then). I would expect the lower skin to easily be able to support the weight of a new core and glasswork while you fix it. I think the core stops about 1-2" from the edge of the cap and the lower and upper layer of glass come together for that outer 'rim'.

[abl1111]

Ok Sounds good.

Thx