|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
New Member, New Seacraft 18, lot's of problems!!!!
New member here, just picked up my first seacraft. Obviously by my name I'm not new to classic boats with nice lines.
some mako boat porn, new transom raised, new floor (yea yea, i know it's CS.com) Anyways, this poor thing followed me home the other day, I was browsing around online and this one cried out for help. The first pictures are how I received the boat, hadn't done a thing. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Re: New Member, New Seacraft 18
Obviously the transom was cut WAY to close to the edges, but really on these old boats nothing surprises me anymore.
I'd like to redo it with coosa board. One thing that concerns me is that there is only 1 layer of roven on the inside skin, so I'd like to beef that up. Also, I'd like to redo the floor with some nida-core and eliminate the rear livewell. Bet you can't guess where the soft spot on the deck is? |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Re: New Member, New Seacraft 18
My plan of attack was to just pop the liner out and go that route, but working solo failed miserably at that today
So now I'm back to the drawing board, looking for some advice on a way to go about this. My next idea was to cut the rear of the cap off, like if i were to do the transom from the inside, so i could add some glass to the front side and tie some knees in (raising the transom for a 25" shaft). Then glass a layer on the rear side to level it, coosa, build up the rear skin, etc. After that, start pulling the rest of the floor up, etc... (another day) pic showing possible cut line to minimize fairing. So what thinks the hive |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Re: New Member, New Seacraft 18
Mike, just some thoughts, I would try to leave the inside alone, I don't think there is enough room to add knees or gussets. Another thought would be to do away with the lower level of the splashwell/have the deck the same height all the way back.
I think a lot of guys have done the transom from the outside-in without doing much to the inside glass. I'm sure someone will give some better details/tips. I will be doing the same thing some time in the future. Looking forward to seeing your progress. Welcome to the sight and nice looking Mako. |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Re: New Member, New Seacraft 18
Quote:
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Re: New Member, New Seacraft 18
OK, cleaned up the back side of the skin, gave the grinder a nice work out
There was a few chunks of intact wood hiding in the corners. Looks like it was held together with staples? motor mount holes will be getting filled, but I wonder how bad this transom was before someone decided to start fixing it? |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Re: New Member, New Seacraft 18
"My plan of attack was to just pop the liner out and go that route, but working solo failed miserably at that today"
More Deep thoughts... If your intent on pulling the liner if you cut out the bait well and tank well, it will give you a visual of the "potter putty" bedding it down and more pry points. I don't think it would be worth the effort, I would just cut out the floor and replace. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Re: New Member, New Seacraft 18
Quote:
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Re: New Member, New Seacraft 18
Yeah, don't underestimate that Potter putty stuff. After cutting the whole inner liner out the back and leaving half of the baitwell, I attached a hoist to the baitwell bottom half and picked the whole boat off the trailer by the baitwell with nothing holding it except that putty stuff. With the whole boat hanging in the air from nothing but the baitwell bottom, I eventually pried it off with a crowbar.
|
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Re: New Member, New Seacraft 18
Ive always wondered at the integrity of these tansom jobs performed from the outside. Is it as strong ? The guy who did mine tansom said to never cut the transom skin off.
__________________
Seacraft's for life !!! |
|
|