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  #1  
Old 06-19-2017, 05:29 PM
NickGarrott NickGarrott is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2017
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I hope you guys don't mind, I am not a Seacraft owner. Simply a C-Hawk owner. This seems to be the premier forum for rebuilding boats, and my googling brings me back here time and again. I figured it was time to join. I'm putting a new transom in my C-hawk 245 right now. 2 layers of 3/4 Coosa 26, and 4 layers of 1700 planned. Using Raka epoxy.

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  #2  
Old 06-19-2017, 09:31 PM
SailorChlud SailorChlud is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2017
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Seems like a powerful endorsement of the boat building knowledge of the forum members. Confirms that Seacraft owners are one friendly, talented bunch!
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  #3  
Old 06-20-2017, 07:29 AM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Ocala, Florida
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Welcome aboard!
Good selection on the Bluewater Coosa. The same was just installed in my rebuild and I know how much that stuff costs. The good news is that it's worth every penny.
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  #4  
Old 06-20-2017, 12:05 PM
Beaver Beaver is offline
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Posts: 260
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That's a nice looking boat. Welcome to CSC. Bet its going to feel good to get it back on the water.

Rob
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  #5  
Old 06-20-2017, 12:31 PM
NickGarrott NickGarrott is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2017
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Thanks guys, I cut her apart last monday, so I am making good time. Any suggestions on the best way to reattach the stringers? I was thinking cut them at an angle and scarf a piece of coosa to them. Then two pieces of coosa against each side, sistered to the current stringer to provide additional strength.
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  #6  
Old 06-20-2017, 03:56 PM
wattaway2 wattaway2 is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Ft.Lauderdale,Fl.
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sounds like a good plan on the stringers looks like your doing a great job
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  #7  
Old 06-20-2017, 04:25 PM
kmoose kmoose is offline
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Location: Ocala, Florida
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickGarrott View Post
Thanks guys, I cut her apart last monday, so I am making good time. Any suggestions on the best way to reattach the stringers? I was thinking cut them at an angle and scarf a piece of coosa to them. Then two pieces of coosa against each side, sistered to the current stringer to provide additional strength.
I'd build knees from the bottom of where the deck would be and tie them right to the stringers. An for hells sake cover up that pretty motor with at least a garbage bag before DonV comes and takes it!
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  #8  
Old 06-20-2017, 04:59 PM
TomParis TomParis is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2015
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Welcome aboard, beautiful boat and nice job there
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  #9  
Old 06-20-2017, 09:18 PM
DonV DonV is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Apollo Beach or Islamorada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmoose View Post
I'd build knees from the bottom of where the deck would be and tie them right to the stringers. An for hells sake cover up that pretty motor with at least a garbage bag before DonV comes and takes it!
Just got back to my room from the Arlington Cemetery visit and what do I see?? A 300 hp Zuke free for the taking???
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  #10  
Old 06-20-2017, 05:17 PM
NickGarrott NickGarrott is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Posts: 12
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Thanks guys. Motor is covered now. Maybe I don't understand what a transom knee does. Mine go from above the deck, and are glassed into the stringers. My stringers are full height from the bottom of the deck to the bottom of the hull. If my knees ended at floor height it would just be a bigger stringer. Also, I got ahead of myself worrying about knees and stringers. More importantly how many layers of 1700 bi-axial should I use for the inner skin, and how much should each piece overlap? The previous inner transom skin was about a 1/4", made of woven and mat. I assume 4 or 5 layers of 1700 will be much stronger, but thinner.
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