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  #11  
Old 10-31-2018, 05:37 PM
uncleboo uncleboo is offline
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I glassed and faired mine as well.
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  #12  
Old 10-31-2018, 05:39 PM
uncleboo uncleboo is offline
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http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1541021934
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  #13  
Old 10-31-2018, 10:26 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtwheelsfl View Post
Glass it, dont put that crap back on
That is where ingress of fresh water ruins transoms.
5200 is a friend here and not many other places.
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  #14  
Old 11-01-2018, 11:53 AM
Capt Terry Capt Terry is offline
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Default Avoiding Transom Aluminum Trim

Thx Uncleboo, GFS and Chris for your comments on eliminating the aluminum trim on my transom cutout during my transom resto. There were some CSC suggestions on how I could make some fiberglass sheets to raise the transom 2’’. After seeing the "leave the trim off suggestions" I thought about temporarily forming the height increase with plywood or something, pouring the Seacast, removing the plywood and then wrapping the top and sides of the exposed Seacast with 1708 to get the bullnose appearance that Dirtwheels and Uncleboo have on theirs. Comments? Thx again guys.
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  #15  
Old 11-01-2018, 12:29 PM
DonV DonV is offline
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Terry , I found aluminum flashing worked really good for a barrier with the Arjay. After the Arjay cured the flashing pulled away no problem and the finish was very smooth. If you use wood to make the form add the flashing and it will save you some work.
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  #16  
Old 11-01-2018, 04:33 PM
Capt Terry Capt Terry is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DonV View Post
Terry , I found aluminum flashing worked really good for a barrier with the Arjay. After the Arjay cured the flashing pulled away no problem and the finish was very smooth.
Thx Don, the flashing is a good idea. Are you suggesting my entire 2” high dam above the current transom could just be Seacast without fiberglass over it? The engine mount bolts would be lower and not in that zone.
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  #17  
Old 11-01-2018, 07:22 PM
DonV DonV is offline
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No Sir, when you pull everything apart I would still put at least two layers of 1708 over the "raw" Arjay/Seacast. I would go more to the "lets overbuild this thing" side of the project. If you build your mold 1/8" less thickness of the final inside/outside measurement then you can add the 1708 and fairing to even everything out. Let's say your inside transom thickness is 1 1/2" and outside of the fiberglass transom is around 1 3/4" thick, you want to make you pour 1 1/2" and make up the difference to the 1 3/4" with glass. Make sense?
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  #18  
Old 11-01-2018, 08:04 PM
Capt Terry Capt Terry is offline
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Yes DonV, makes sense and whst I originally expected. Wanted to make sure. Hoping to remove engine in the next couple weeks. Just thinking through the gameplan. Thx.
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  #19  
Old 11-02-2018, 10:25 AM
DonV DonV is offline
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Yeah Terry, kinda one of those measure twice, or in my case four times and cut once!! Go in with a well thought out game plan and you'll be good!!
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  #20  
Old 11-02-2018, 02:38 PM
SailorChlud SailorChlud is offline
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I also agree on the removal of the aluminum trim for the notch. The glassed top looks fine, and then there are fewer holes into the transom. That's what the fiberglass guy did on my Seafari when he raised the transom for me.
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