Upcoming Transom Redo

[Capt Terry]

Not too surprisingly I discovered moisture in a baggy left in the sun with wood chips from drilling small holes in my 42 year old Seafari transom. Then while bouncing on the AV plate I measured about 3/8” deflection of the transom near the engine, between the upper and lower engine bolts. Flatness checks horizontally across the transom confirmed distortion and particularly compression of the transom at the bolts for the ETEC. Therefore with a few months of winter coming, I am planning on a transom redo.

As there are no cracks in the aft sheet of the transom and the boat is cosmetically pretty nice and doesn’t need a repaint yet, I will probably use a Seacast pour as done by Skippertee and others. The 20” transom with the Seamark splashwell tub made by Don Herman has served me pretty well. But with heavier (than the old days) guests sitting too far aft, the waterline is slightly above the splashwell drain hole allowing in a little water to coming over the transom at times. I could raise it to 25”-27”. However, due to misalignment of the mechanical steering cable that would drive me to hydraulic steering and complicate the Seacast repair a bit. Probably more later, but a couple questions right now. I have until April to contemplate and complete this effort.

1- Has anyone used the Seacast method and simultaneously raised their transom? How? I have some ideas, but surely there are some good tips among the CSCers.
2- With the raised transom was the splashwell drain hole and splashwell floor raised as well?
3- I am suspecting that those who raised their transom are happy with their decision. Were there any surprises?
Thanks all

[DonV]

Hey Terry, I did mine with Arjay and to this day I wish I had went to 31" on my transom. in hindsight it would have been easy to do. While I had the transom skin off I would have made sheets of fiberglass with five, six layers or so of 1708 cut it to fit in the old transom beveled the edges and glassed in in place. All you are looking for is a taller mold to pour in to. You are going to fair and sand anyway, which as we know is fun!! I found non-stick aluminum foil is the way to go when making a sheet of fiberglass, lay the foil non-stick side up, flat on plywood, pre-cut your 1708 and keep wetting and stacking until 3/16 to 1/4" thick.

[Capt Terry]

Thx. Don
A good tip about making fiberglass sheets. Will save it!

[FLexpat]

When I am doing small sheets and I want them smooth or pre gelcoated, I start with a 2'x4' sheet of dry erase board from Home Depot for $10.
Wax it or spray PVA.
Spray gelcoat on it, let dry for a few hours (not several days!!!!! - I learned that lesson)
Lay up glass, put peelply on back (great bonding surface & no blush w epoxy, allows full cure w polyester or VE) and let harden
Pops right off and glass smooth (unless the wax or PVA is too thick/uneven)

[kmoose]

Old sliding glass doors work great for making sheet glass.

[Capt Terry]

Thanks Moose, Mitch and DonV for your suggestions-
Right now I am leaning towards increasing the transom from 20” to 22” Why 22” and not 25”? In my 42 years of use, with a Hermco splashwell, and particularly only lake-usage now, the 20” has served me quite well. I only anchor from the bow and keep the stern towards the beach. I have about 2” of clearance now from the ETEC to the transom. A 22” transom with the splashwell drain plug installed, would provide more margin when the heavies are sitting in the stern at anchor. With 22” I can also keep my mechanical steering and avoid a 5” ETEC driveshaft extension.
The next step is building or locating an engine stand for the 418# ETEC.

[DonV]

Hey Terry

Get a couple of 2x6s and 2x4s with some nice HF casters, two 1/2" bolts with washers and nuts and you can make a stand in 45 minutes. Use 3" wood screws, easy to take apart when done. I've made four or five for motors up to 600#, no issues.

[uncleboo]

Originally Posted by Capt Terry

Thanks Moose, Mitch and DonV for your suggestions-
Right now I am leaning towards increasing the transom from 20” to 22” Why 22” and not 25”? In my 42 years of use, with a Hermco splashwell, and particularly only lake-usage now, the 20” has served me quite well. I only anchor from the bow and keep the stern towards the beach. I have about 2” of clearance now from the ETEC to the transom. A 22” transom with the splashwell drain plug installed, would provide more margin when the heavies are sitting in the stern at anchor. With 22” I can also keep my mechanical steering and avoid a 5” ETEC driveshaft extension.
The next step is building or locating an engine stand for the 418# ETEC.

When I was replacing my transom, I planned on raising it 2-1/2". When I cut the core, I left an extra inch at the top with intentions of trimming it down to 2-1/2". Didn't get trimmed so I have 3-1/2" more than before. All is fine except the hydraulic steering fittings will hit if I try to raise it all the way. I have another inch to raise the new motor, (old one took a fatal crap), and that should correct that issue. You'll like having the extra height whatever you end up with.

[Capt Terry]

My ‘76 Seafari has extruded aluminum trim on the transom cut out. Has anyone found a similar replacement?

[dirtwheelsfl]

Originally Posted by Capt Terry

My ‘76 Seafari has extruded aluminum trim on the transom cut out. Has anyone found a similar replacement?

Glass it, dont put that crap back on