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this is my rig:
it was completley rewired,by me,approx 10yrs ago i'm running 3 batteries - charged via an alternator isolator 1 battery is dedicated to the engine,another is dedicated to the 12v system and the last battery is a dedicated spare - all are on selector switches - the boat has 3 bilge pumps - all on a seperate power source - boat's also equipped with a high bilge water alarm. the 12v system is breaker protected - all wiring is ancor marine grade "tinned" wiring - all connections are heat shrink sealed battery switches are run in the #1 position auto switches - for bilge pumps are "fed" power from behind the switches - only connections at the batteries,are cables only - this is how your electrical system should be - i use either lock nuts,or nuts and lock washers on the battery terminals... the alternator isolator - it's used on either inboards or stern drives - the output wire from the alternator is removed from the starter - a replacement wire is ran,through an ancor "maxi fuse",then that wire is ran to the console,to the isolator - the isolator allows all 3 batteries to recharge,and remain electrically seperated,from each other...this is a "bulletproof" system... that breaker panel,it's mounted on the bulkhead - aft,in the console - all the wiring runs through "rigging tubes" 1/0 ancor cables feed power and ground to the engine,there's a seperate ground cable,running to the engine,for the 12v system battery,all 3 batteries are "jumped" ground cable as well - via 1/0 ancor cable - it's a little "overkill",but,i'm a big fan of over kill... questions ? one of the best products out for holding harness's up,is made by ancor - it's got a hole in the center for a screw- and it's cut,on both sides - this allows a zip tie to be slid through it.those cheap adhesive pieces will not hold up the pictures will not come through.... i will take repalcement pictures when i get to the shop today - sorry guys...
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