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#1
11-10-2011, 01:22 PM
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I am running an ACR isolator/combiner. It (supposedly) auto switches. They're also sold together. http://bluesea.com/products/7650
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#2
11-10-2011, 03:38 PM
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I also have the same ACR as mentioned above, plus I have the same Guest onboard charger for my two main batteries that Reelescape has. My problem which happened this past weekend is the guage only was reading 12 volts....we know what that means!! Soooo, I just ordered a new alternator for my engine, should be here in a day or two. Anyway assuming your batteries have been tested and are good, the 16 volt reading as mentioned might be the voltage regulator. In most cases the alternator and regulator are in the same housing. My two cents worth....take your time looking for a new alternator, in my case they ran from $500+ down to $96. I was going to go back with a Delco just like what I had and pay the extra $75 until I took it off and saw it was made in Korea.....now all l I care about is the best deal. I'm a poor bastard.
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#3
11-11-2011, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
__________________
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594
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#4
11-12-2011, 11:43 AM
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this is my rig:
it was completley rewired,by me,approx 10yrs ago i'm running 3 batteries - charged via an alternator isolator 1 battery is dedicated to the engine,another is dedicated to the 12v system and the last battery is a dedicated spare - all are on selector switches - the boat has 3 bilge pumps - all on a seperate power source - boat's also equipped with a high bilge water alarm. the 12v system is breaker protected - all wiring is ancor marine grade "tinned" wiring - all connections are heat shrink sealed battery switches are run in the #1 position auto switches - for bilge pumps are "fed" power from behind the switches - only connections at the batteries,are cables only - this is how your electrical system should be - i use either lock nuts,or nuts and lock washers on the battery terminals... the alternator isolator - it's used on either inboards or stern drives - the output wire from the alternator is removed from the starter - a replacement wire is ran,through an ancor "maxi fuse",then that wire is ran to the console,to the isolator - the isolator allows all 3 batteries to recharge,and remain electrically seperated,from each other...this is a "bulletproof" system... that breaker panel,it's mounted on the bulkhead - aft,in the console - all the wiring runs through "rigging tubes" 1/0 ancor cables feed power and ground to the engine,there's a seperate ground cable,running to the engine,for the 12v system battery,all 3 batteries are "jumped" ground cable as well - via 1/0 ancor cable - it's a little "overkill",but,i'm a big fan of over kill... questions ? one of the best products out for holding harness's up,is made by ancor - it's got a hole in the center for a screw- and it's cut,on both sides - this allows a zip tie to be slid through it.those cheap adhesive pieces will not hold up the pictures will not come through.... i will take repalcement pictures when i get to the shop today - sorry guys...
__________________
do not let common sense get in your way
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#6
11-14-2011, 02:09 PM
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Quote:
If you look close at the later (in the build) pictures it has a couple labels on it. It is just a universal black plastic box with big breakers for the auto bilge pumps and a 3rd for the power wire going to the Ttop. I need to make a diagram to explain it a little better because you are the 4th guy to ask me about it.
__________________
Patrick from WAY out on cape cod. 1973 23foot Center console, Birdsall Ttop, Hermco Bracket... in progress
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