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#1
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Bonefish: That is a great looking transom...what size Seacraft is it? Are you installing a bracket + outboard engine? What size? -- Thanks for info, aaf
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#2
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I'm real pleased with how the transom has come out. The boat is 23'. We plan to install the bracket soon, although I still haven't decided on the motor.
Here's the bracket ready to go. ![]() |
#3
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The bracket is finally in place. One of the many things to wrap up before the floor goes back in.
![]() ![]() Baitwell plumbing finished. ![]() Bilge pump "cartridges" were fabricated so that the pumps can be changed out very easily. They are attached to the back side of the inner transom wall. ![]() ![]() Battery boxes are finished. Macerator pump for forward fish box in place on top of fresh water holding tank. Fresh water fill and vent hoses are attached. ![]() ![]() The cap is finished up and ready to go back on. ![]() The cap is completely glassed in place. Much more stiff. ![]() |
#4
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Hey Bonefish...that boat is looking amazing. How big is that fuel tank and where did you get it??? (PM me) Those foward battery boxes are very nice too. The more you post the more I think I'll be modifying my Tsunami....
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#5
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Incredible! awesome job.
imagine how much it would cost for production manufacturers to pay this much attention to detail.... |
#6
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I molded a pair of fiberglass tubes like that for my Mako21 a few months before Katrina, but I haven't touched the boat since then. I also molded a pair for my Mako26 about 8 months ago, and I plan on installing them in about 2 months.
I'm glad to see someone put the same kind of plan into action. However, I never thought of having any of the drain lines exit through those scuppers. Ingenious. ![]() Basically, I wrap the mold in thin plastic. That way I don't have to spend time waxing the thing and the part comes off alot easier. It doesn't have to be perfect anyhow. I use 1.5oz mat for the flange and 6 oz cloth to wrap the actual tube. There are about 5 wraps of the 6 oz cloth. I used the 1.5oz mat to tie the flange onto the tube in the glassing process. ![]() I have some cleaning up to do, but these are all set to go into the boat when that part of the project comes up. ![]() ![]() |
#7
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Those drain tubes turned out GREAT!! What kind of plastic did you use and how did you adhere it to the mold?
__________________
If it isn't deer season I'd rather be in a SEACRAFT |
#8
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The floor was made outside of the boat using a pattern, seen here leaning up to the left. The underside has been glassed.
![]() The top side of the foam core won't be glassed until in place. Cutouts were made for fuel tank and battery box access, as well as for the control and wire chases. ![]() Floor bonded in place. ![]() I plan to access the battery boxes, macerator pump, and tranducer through a seat in front of the console (the hole through the floor of the lower battery box in the picture is for the transducer tank). Access to the fuel tank and the control/wire chases will be in the console itself. ![]() |
#9
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i have 1 word for that >>>> WOW....
I'M GREEN WITH ENVY WHERE IS THE GLASS WORK BEING DONE AND APROXIMATE COST ? JUST BALLPARK.
__________________
80 23 SCEPTRE TWIN 135 MERC OPTIS 75 20 Master Angler 115 Mariner Tower of Power RUSTY PARKER http://i92.photobucket.com/albums/l2...eyemailtag.jpg |
#10
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Looks good. I hope that your are able to through bolt the console with nuts and fender washers, if not then the screws will pull out of the floor due to the foam core not having any holding power. What a lot of the boat manufactures are doing is glassing in plywood or an aluminum plate in these areas.
__________________
Steve B 1978 23ft SeaCraft Seavette 502HP ZZ502 Mercruiser TRS Drive-Sold-UGH! 1998 28ft Carolina Classic 7.4 Volvo Penta Duo Prop |
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