Dont throw out those high dollar High Pressure fuel pumps yet

[Old'sCool]

I would probably perform a decarb for ring/land carbon removal and then re-check compression.

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by Old'sCool

I would probably perform a decarb for ring/land carbon removal and then re-check compression.

I plan on running a can of seafoam 16oz with 3/4 gal of gas (100 octane ethanol-free fuel is all I run) threw the motor in 3 - 15 min sessions

I may even get the spray type and tilt the motor up and spray it threw the spark plug holes while rotating by hand and let the rings soak too

[eggsuckindog]

Dude you wore me out with your post and I couldn't finish it - I unfortunately am an expert in 2.5 EFI troubleshooting - you can IM me or just call me me 813 369 3256 - I can prolly tell you exactly why it won't run or what to check

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by eggsuckindog

Dude you wore me out with your post and I couldn't finish it - I unfortunately am an expert in 2.5 EFI troubleshooting - you can IM me or just call me me 813 369 3256 - I can prolly tell you exactly why it won't run or what to check

Thanks for the offer and I will keep your number if I have any future problems but I got it running just fine now, The high pressure pump was stuck from sitting with old gas in it. I was just posting what I did to un-stick the pump and get it back useable. I know many people who have issues come spring after their motors sat all winter and they have to replace the $700 vst fuel pump. I just was trying to help others that had pump problems save the big $ if they want to try to get their pumps back going vs replacing them.

The 2.5 runs great and I found a second motor as well. The plan is to pull them apart and hop them up a bit. I want to do a 7 pedal front end, high compression heads, some porting in the exhaust chest, porting in the intake, rod slots, lighten the fly wheel, bump the ports up to promax specs, maybe a svs system and a few other special things. I already got burcato acu's so I can adjust the fuel curve and set a higher rev limit. Hope to get 500+ hp out of the pair.

[eggsuckindog]

That pump is available from Bosch for $200 - google Mr Fuel Pump - go over to Scream & Fly there is an excellent engine builder quite close to for all your Mod's

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by eggsuckindog

That pump is available from Bosch for $200 - google Mr Fuel Pump - go over to Scream & Fly there is an excellent engine builder quite close to for all your Mod's

Wow $200??? The cheapest one I could find was around $500. That's why I spent the time getting the oem one cleaned and unstuck so I could use it. It works good but I am planning to go to a VST delete and run my return lines back to the tank. Then I can run higher fuel pressure with a new regulator.

Who are you referring to that is close to me? I plan on letting Tommy Dunn do the work if that is who you are talking about. He as built some fast 2.5's that has won several world championships. Bruce Tripp's boat has proved him as a great builder

[eggsuckindog]

Dunn is excellent so your covered - a buddy of mine lives up there but I think he uses somebody else - don't remember the guys name but Wayne's screen name over there is THAT'S RIGHT you could ask him as he runs a 260. Lots of knowledge over there

yep $200 same exact pump I wasn't paying 400+ either - tip - this guy has a brand new one that came off mine when it blew up - Manny 347 998 3400 he has tons of parts but I know he has my new fuel pump or anything else you need

[Bigshrimpin]

Originally Posted by flyingfrizzle

Thanks for the offer and I will keep your number if I have any future problems but I got it running just fine now, The high pressure pump was stuck from sitting with old gas in it. I was just posting what I did to un-stick the pump and get it back useable. I know many people who have issues come spring after their motors sat all winter and they have to replace the $700 vst fuel pump. I just was trying to help others that had pump problems save the big $ if they want to try to get their pumps back going vs replacing them.

The 2.5 runs great and I found a second motor as well. The plan is to pull them apart and hop them up a bit. I want to do a 7 pedal front end, high compression heads, some porting in the exhaust chest, porting in the intake, rod slots, lighten the fly wheel, bump the ports up to promax specs, maybe a svs system and a few other special things. I already got burcato acu's so I can adjust the fuel curve and set a higher rev limit. Hope to get 500+ hp out of the pair.

FF - From what I've read if you stay under 7000rpm then you are better off with the 4 petal front. I just sold a 7 petal 2.5L front 1/2 last week on ebay. I'll keep my eyes out for another one. 2.5L 7 petal fronts are tough to find cause they were only on the 1991/2 2.5 with the bottom guided rods, a 240 sportjet, promax, or racing stuff. Can't wait to see the end result . . . that boat will fly. Thanks for the info on the hi pressure pump. You might want to pull the head on the 110psi side and just take a look. Worst you'll lose is a few bucks for a new head gasket.

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by Bigshrimpin

FF - From what I've read if you stay under 7000rpm then you are better off with the 4 petal front. I just sold a 7 petal 2.5L front 1/2 last week on ebay. I'll keep my eyes out for another one. 2.5L 7 petal fronts are tough to find cause they were only on the 1991/2 2.5 with the bottom guided rods, a 240 sportjet, promax, or racing stuff. Can't wait to see the end result . . . that boat will fly. Thanks for the info on the hi pressure pump. You might want to pull the head on the 110psi side and just take a look. Worst you'll lose is a few bucks for a new head gasket.

I have read that too about the 5 petal vs the 7 petal, I might just go mild with these 2 bocks/motors I have now and use them on the 25 seafari instead of the race boat. Stick with the 5 petal fronts on them and wait to find a nice pair of Promax motors to go all out on for the go fast hull. I really don't want to turn over 7000 rpm with the motors I have now due the side pined pistons. If I can find some promax or 280/260 nic blocks I might try to get some forged top pined wizard pistons for them so I can turn it up to 8000-9000. The motors I have now I will probably just use the verex pistons in them and try to keep them more reliable if I have to bore and replace the factory ones.


Far as the lower compression in the one hole, I was to curious and after I did the decarb it read the same and got no better so about 2 weeks ago I did pull the heads on that motor and looked at the bore. All the holes looked like new but that one. It had some light streaks up and down the wall that were very faint and light around 5 o clock and 7 o clock. They were visible to the eye but you could not feel them by touch. Most of the time you can catch your nail in them but if you were a bind man you would not know they were there. All the other holes have nice hone marks and you can see the hone marks in the lower one too still. I think I am going to pull that one and hone it back out and change the rings on all of the pistons to new. If there is any marks on the piston I will change the one or maybe all over to the verex coated ones.

[eggsuckindog]

Scream & Fly would be the place to about the reeds blocks - btw use Chris Carson Marine reeds if you pull it done that far