Getting started

[TUGBOAT]

I'm gonna ASSume that the other 20% would to be spent with The Wife / Family So You COULD do it AGAIN !!
Scream'n Reels' [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[TUGBOAT]

There are only a few things(Very Few & their outweighed by the Greats) anyone can say a bad thing about seacrafts.One of them is Drainage/Scuppers.You'll find all kinds of post on any fix,complaint,ideas etc.Take a Day to reveiw the archives.Thats what makes this site so "Great" is all the "ADVICE" .I just re-did mine ,just removed the ss scuppers & added the ball scuppers.She doesn't sit in the water,but on a trailer.Hope this helps Her.I always kept them plugged before.
Scream'n Reels'
Your sample is in the Mail/You have e-mail also
"TUG" [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[and then some]

Well I'm commited now. I just cut the back 2' of the inner liner out. It wasn't all that bad. Now I have access to every thing in the rear of the boat. The transom is pretty much falling out. There are some solid pieces but for the most part its not hard to get out. Check out my pics. http://web.tampabay.rr.com/my20seacraft/ Thanks again for all of the help.

[ September 12, 2003, 04:38 PM: Message edited by: and then some ]

[TUGBOAT]

Do those photo's bring some FOND memories back ,Whew !I like your schematics ! Lighting one pretty neat too.
Have Fun,Make sure You send photo's of those 2 lil' ladies when Your finsihed,Just want to see how much they've grown since Ya started ! Ha Ha!
Hopefully it won't take as long as Me !!
Scream'n Reels' [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[barnacle]

I would raise it the 5". Less water in enter with the higher stern. Plus you can find better deals on 25" engines then you do on 20" engines. I just raised my 20 cc 5" and am going to install a 150. My problem is the motor been sitting in the box for over 2 months now and I cant seem to find the time to hang is and try her.

[RingLeader]

Yep.. raise the transom 5" and never look back! Looks like the wood is pretty well rotten, so cleaning all that out shouldn't be too bad. I went back with marine plywood in my project.

Though mine is not a SeaCraft (its a Mako) the process is still the same. Pace yourself, drink lots of Beer, and try to dedicate a few hours every weekend to the wife. My wife hates the Mako and everything that looks like it!

I've been working pretty steady since December, and I figure that I'll finish up sometime nest Spring. For the looks of your schematics, you are a detail oriented person... That is my problem and it deffinitely slows the process down. But the end result is a boat that is better than new.

Best of luck, ask lots of questions here, and get her put back together so you can take those little girls fishing!

Ed Ring
www.classicmako.com

[ September 14, 2003, 12:24 AM: Message edited by: RingLeader ]

[EBEACH]

I just finished a similar project. I would definitely raise the transom to 25 inches. I’m currently using a Yamaha 130, and the boat moves along just fine and is great on the gas. You will need to go with hydraulic steering if you raise the transom. I cut out my liner about the same place you did. Remember that the original wood in the transom is 1 3/8 inches thick. If you go with 2 sheets of ¾ plywood, you may have difficulty fitting the liner back in place. Don’t try to lay the glass over the notch. Lay it up straight against the wood, then fill in the top with resin mixed with glass fibers. I used a router to trim the notch flat and square.

The bottom bolts for the motor may very well line up right were the splash well bottoms out back against the transom. Engine height will have to be looked at before drilling the bottom motor mount holes.

I would use plywood for the transom. Everybody I talked to told me to use wood. Even my suppliers steered me away from composites. You’ll need to grind down that inside layer of glass that covered the transom, and cut the stringers back 4-6 inches to be able to glass up the new wood. Less chance for rot if the stringer is closed going back to the transom.

I decided not to do anything about the drains, except to make a solid tube of glass instead of using thru hull fittings. I just don’t see how well the ball valves will work if the water line is already at the top of the drains (?). I will install clamshell vents to the bottom of the hull before next season to create a vacuum while underway.

I’ve been using the boat now for about a month, and it’s been great. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img]

Good luck with your project

[pogden]

I have a question for "EBEACH" and "and then some"
(everyone else chime in too!!)

Most of the transom repairs I have seen show the entire "cap" removed from the boat and then the inner liner is cut back what ever distance is needed to complete repairs(depending on how bad the rot is!).

and then some---seemed to cut the cap and remove only a small portion instead of removing the entire thing. Giving him access to the front of the transom. Does that decrease the integrity of the cap and the boat????
Would you just glass up and flare the area you cut through???

Has anyone else done this???

Thanks,
Pat

[FELLOW-SHIP]

I cut my cap where your tie off rope goes through the cap when I did my transom. Then a few months later I removed the entire remainder of the cap to re do the lamination in the cap so I guess I did both. When I put the cap back together again I just glassed where the cuts were and enforced it on the inside with extra glass and epoxy the cap doesn’t move and the whole thing is screwed into the inner liner of the hull. I haven’t had any cracks or any problems at all where I cut the cap. When you remove either the whole cap or cut you remove the two storage boxed on both sides of the boat which proves more than enough room to do the transom. The only thing left to remove is the splash well area by doing that you have great access, if you have the older potters you will need to remove the live well as well. http://www.classicseacraft.com/mcgovern23page3.htm
FellowShip [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[EBEACH]

Pogden, I had started this reply saying only the 23's have this "cap". I just noticed that you have a master angler.

Looks like it has a cap too. Best to ask a master angler owner, or someone who has looked one over. I think you should ask yourself, is it easier to cut the rear section of the cap off, or remove the whole thing. Do you have wood core that needs to be replaced in parts of the cap?

Is this what your transom looks like?


"and then some" has a differnt type of hull. Standard 20ft which is a 2 piece boat, no cap.

hope this helps.