.

[Fr. Frank]

There is a relief screw on the side of the transom clamp which will allow the raising and lowering of the motor. It only works as a "hold" in position, however, if there is hydraulic fluid in the system.

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Lordwrench

The model is J175EXERA btw

Some worry that overnight washes too much oil from internals. BRP agreed.

I used the omc 2+4 spray can which attaches to the schraeder valve on the fast start solenoid. Red cap.

I then did the seafoam mix or Dunk method. Directions on the can.

The wall of smoke was 30 ft high and 20 ft wide. I did it at a local ski lake ramp and a Sheriff
on a flats boat came screaming up thinking a warehouse was on fire. He was really mad.
I told him I called the FD.

Maybe just stuck rings. Do you have a bore camera?

[gofastsandman]

I wouldn't run her until you do a decarb and another compression check.
Could be easy or boom.

[Bushwacker]

My old 115 used 5/16" fuel lines, but I think you need 3/8" fuel lines on anything bigger than a V-4 to make sure you don't starve it for fuel @ WOT! I'd change all those lines to 3/8", and while you're at it, check all the fittings to make sure holes in them are full size. The shop I used to deal with on my old motor once found a 90 degree fitting coming out of a fuel tank that had undersized holes in it! It was responsible for a blown powerhead!

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Lordwrench

Trim is purring like a kitten now,nice to have all major systems a go.Thanks again to all here for the help! Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the OMC gauge package ? It looks to have a power and ground feed wire coming from the OMC throttle harness which then appears to daisy chain around to the back of each gauge? The fuel gauge is the only one I need, it seems dead and pegged low. The tach works but seems a little jumpy, I would really like confidence in it. The volt meter pegs to full high when the key is on. Motor trim gauge is inop so far.

First I am going to direct wire the fuel gauge just to get it working, but for the rest of it, it seems a distribution block would be the way to go and distribute clean power and ground to each gauge. All of this will be not too long term, I will probably be converting it all to Merc monitor, so for now,I just want to get the fuel gauge and tach at least mildly dependable.Any info appreciated,thanks!


B

3/8 fuel line? This is a must. My 96 is a bit different in that this was the first year for the system check tach.

I want as many gauges as possible. Temp should read 140-150. Above 160 or so and capt corrosion comes calling. Volt should be 13.4-14 or so. Manual is at work. Trim is fed signal by the black plastic arm on the swivel bracket. They get stuck open as the shaft gets tight and the spring weakens. Find a friend or child with small hands to replace the spring and clean up the shaft.

Not sure if the gauge packs were all daisy chained for ease of production or for electrical reasons. Electrical gremlins laugh at me. Clean all grounds and hot connections. Bad grounds can cause tach jumping or lead to low side regulator blow out.

Remove the pink wire from the fuel gauge and see what happens.

When you turn the key on does a horn sound?

Cheers,
GFS

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Lordwrench

No horn sound, no pink wire.orange wire from fuel sender to ground, striped wire from fuel sender to "S", purple wire to "I" and black to "G".The gauges also have back light wiring. The sending unit wires look recent or at least in good shape considering the rest of the wiring.The gauge daisy chain wires were all t-tapped and scotch-lok'd into,between the gauges, so the insualtion has breaks,missing sections and corrodded wires underneath.Fuel level is just where I am starting, I need to figure the tank capacity, but the rest of the gauges I would like to recover as well.The feed wires, from the OMC harness, there appears to be 3, are purple black and another color I can't decipher yet.The purple and black feed the daisy chains that were then tapped into and insulation corrupted.I suspect poor ground circuit is prolly the culprit all around,I agree. right now, no horns or sounds of any kind, oil is pre-mixed manually with tank removed. Thanks as always for the guidance!

B

Is there a horn under the console or in the binnie? I believe the pre system check warnings were different numbers of beeps corresponding to hot, low oil, no oil, and fuel vacuum. really important to have those functions. You pre mix, but the hot and fuel function is real handy. Get a factory manual. I always call BRP support when I have questions. The prompt says they will only help folks with 98 - up products, but they always help me and most of them have the exact motahs we have.