Sanding the flair?

[Desperado]

Ben

I know I had a soft pad for mine at one point. Check with your local tool shop that carries porter cable tools and see if they have anything. Probably a specialty shop, I don't think Home Depot would carry it. If that doesn't pan out check with an automotive paint shop and tell them what you're looking for. They should be able to help you out with an aftermarket pad.

I remember the one I had didn't hold up very well but it got abused.

Does the Seafari have the cuddy up front? Is it big enough to get inside and take a nap? I've never seen one of those up close. Just wondering how it is layed out.

[PressureDrop]

Yes. the seafari has the cuddy, it has the usual 6'6'' head room and then an anchor locker. it could sleep 2 in a pinch, since were all guys (me, dad and brother) we have a freshwater tank mounted on the floor of the cuddy instead of a potty. its in supprisinly good shape for a 70' except it has a blister problem, i think it was mabye sunk once, eeekkk. ill post pics when i get em on the computer. any ideas on how to get a windlass off that has been epoxyed and/or 5200'ed on?

Ben

P.s. - do you have a seacraft?!?! lets hear about it!

[Scott]

Hey Ben

I too have that sander and mine came with a 5" pad I think backed with neoprene so to avoid digging into your work if you were not flat against it....I'll look to see if this is true and if you need I will look up the place I bought it off the internet (They sell the 5 and 6" replacement discs for that sander).

The other suggestion that Desperado had about the fairing board is also a great way to get the hull smooth. Like he said get real thin ¼” plywood about 2" wide and as long as you want 12-18" and put a hand hold on either end. 3M sells sand paper at that width in rolls (think west marine has it in their catalog). Then as you look at the hull think of it as the face of a clock and point one end of your fairing board at say 2 the other follows at 8. (your moving in the direction of 2 and 8) Stay on that plane as you work left to right and then switch to 10 and 4 ....this makes your "x" pattern. Get a can of spray paint and lightly spray the hull to get it "Dirty" as if the boat had gotten oversprayed (use a different color from your hull so you can easily see it and don’t spray it on heavy…. just “speckle” the hull with the paint). This way as you sand you can tell where you've sanded and if you have high/low points in the surface of the hull...when the opposing color is gone you should be real close to "fair". I've used it and it works nice ....but it is a lot of work!!!This should work great for the flair in the bow of the boat

Desparado……I hope I’m not putting you on the spot with this question and do not intend to do that….but….I was on your site and I saw the 1972 23 for sale…..curious…you make a comment about “fixing the complaints of the original design….” please share with us what you’ve done and what those complaints were. I have an idea of what your speaking of …..just curious if I’m on the right track. I would really love to see more pictures of that boat!!!!
[img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

[Desperado]

Scott

Thanks for explaining the sanding board. I knew that there was a better way to draw the picture I just couldn't figure it out.

As far as the "complaints", I was referring generally to the transom, scuppers, and livewell. The stern in a nutshell. The boat is still pretty rough right now as it's on hold due to other projects. It is upside down awaiting some repairs to the bottom. What has been done is the structure. We cut the floor out, removed the box stringers and installed a grid system (four stringers and transversals every 2'). We will incorporate an integrated bracket and a closed transom with livewell above the deck.

We probably won't be able get back on that boat until after the summer and the other boats are completed.

[Scott]

Desperado

Thanks for the come back! That’s exactly what I was hoping to hear..(well you know what I mean)..Transom, scuppers and livewell.....All being discussed here at length at one time or another.

I was just curious and was hoping there wasn’t another "area of opportunity" that had been overlooked!!! [img]images/icons/shocked.gif[/img]

Glad I could be of help to "put it in other words" Hopefully it cleared it up alittle for Ben [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

[Desperado]

Ben

Tell us more about your windlass problem.

There is a product available that will loosen 5200. I don't remember the name but it definitely works. I'll look it up and get the name but you can get it at West Marine.

[PressureDrop]

Scott - thanks, that made it very clear!

Desperado - the windlass wont budge, i can see the 5200 come out of the seams but im thinking it might have been epoxyed on cuase its not moving and damn inch, any thing that can undo epoxy?!