bunk vs. roller trailers

Matt1121 · #1 10-02-2002, 03:48 PM

Hi gents-

I have a Load Rite bunk trailer under my 23 right now. However, up here in northern Massachusetts with the big tidal changes 8ft +....winching a 23 up on bunks (even with those plastic..teflon pads added to the bunks) is a real pain, especially at low tide.

If I switch over to a good quality roller trailer....say one with 48 rollers or more...due I risk damaging the hull? The boat is currently stored on the trailer year-round but does got a lot of use...almost every weekend during the season, weather permitting.

AlexT · #2 10-02-2002, 03:59 PM

One thing to try before spending that kind of money is keeping a gallon of cheap dishwashing soap in your truck and squirting it on the bunks before you winch up. Haven't done it myself, but have heard that it makes an incredible difference in terms of decreased friction, even with teflon.

squidrig · #3 10-02-2002, 04:49 PM

What about throwing a Rule Winch on there. Cheaper than a new trailer something like $300. I've been able to get in and out with my 23 on a float on trailer everytime, even with tides so low other where waiting for it to come in. Just a thought.

FELLOW-SHIP · #4 10-02-2002, 05:20 PM

I DON’T KNOW ABOUT THE PROBLEMS YOU MIGHT HAVE UP NORTH WITH YOUR TIDES AND HOW FAR YOU CAN BACK YOUR TRAILER INTO THE WATER. I USE A BUNK TRAILER DOWN HERE I JUST SUBMERGE MY TRAILER DOWN TO THE CENTER OF THE WHEEL FENDERS AND DRIVE IT RIGHT ONTO THE TRAILER. I USUALLY GET WITH IN 3’ OF THE WINCH THAT WAY. THEN I HAVE MY BROTHER ATTACH THE WINCH TO THE I BOLT AND PUT THE MOTOR IN GEAR WHILE HE CRANKS THE REST OF THE BOAT ONTO THE TRAILER. HE USES ONLY ONE ARM NO BIG DEAL TO CRANK I DO MOST OF THE WORK WITH THE ENGINE. BEEN DOING THAT METHOD FOR 15 YEARS DOWN HERE AND WORKS EVERY TIME. I WASH THE TRAILER WITH FRESH WATER WHEN I GET HOME AND SPRAY THE BRAKES WITH WB-40.
FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

Matt1121 · #5 10-03-2002, 02:08 PM

Thanks for the feedback . I will look into adding an electric winch. Power loading is not an option.....they dont allow it on my ramp. Nor can I back my trailer down any further....the ramp is so steep that if I back way down, the end of the bunks are 3 feet under water and the transom just sways freely in the wind & current.

John R · #6 10-03-2002, 03:37 PM

Fellowship, the ramps up here are pretty steep as is the current of a tide that moves 8+ feet. Plus as Matt says, a lot of ramps up here are prohibitting powering on a trialer...

Matt - what shape is the trailer you have now? What about those roller/bunks? Anyone see or use those yet?

AlexT · #7 10-03-2002, 07:14 PM

Matt, another thought is to add guide-ons. Should keep your stern lined up so that you can pull out, even if you start out with the stern still afloat.

Matt1121 · #8 10-04-2002, 10:40 AM

My trailer is in pretty good shape now. I replaced the lights & wiring, fenders, tires, seals, bearings, and the previous owner replaced the bunks, springs and winch. The only problem is that the trailer wasn't designed for a 23'....the previous owner in Florida modified it by adding huge pressure treated bunks that hang off the rear of the trailer frame by a few feet. As a result, there is way too much weight on the tongue now so I need to move the axles forward to get it adjusted correctly. I have the nice "guide ons" in my garage but there isnt space on the rear of the frame until I move the axles forward.

As you can see, there comes a point when you feel like you should just sell it and buy a new trailer that was designed for the boat. I've actually spoken to a few custom trailer manufacturers over the border in Canada (got to love that exchange rate) and they can build me an all welded, roller/bunk trailer (or just a roller trailer) for around $2700-3,000. The only problem is some don't use galvanized axles or galvanized hardware (ubolts, nuts, bolts) which seems kinda silly to me. That stuff would last 6 months in the saltwater before it had to be replaced.

Who knows what I will do...I am going to wait to here back from one other custom trailer builder in Canada. If he can use all galvy hardware..I'll probably have him build me a bunk/roller trailer. If not, I'll get one of those RULE trailer winches that one of your recommended, move the axles forward, and pray for the best.

Marc Googer · #9 10-04-2002, 08:34 PM

That stinks about the mo power loading! Why will they not premit power loading? I would never consider loading a 18'+ boat any other way than driving on. I load like Fellow-Ship and just drive on(my 25' Sea Vee, all my past boats, all my frinds, and everone I worked on as a mechanic) till the last foot or 2 and then hook on the winch. I then winch with engine power for the last foot. Around my part of SC(we have 6' tides) you might see 1 out of 50 boat owner winching on and they are the ones who just got the boat [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img] . There is no way I would ever trade an vertical bunk trailer for a roller trailer, just to much maintince and chance of hull damage. I guess if you have to winch the roller would be the way to go.

Sorry about the rant.
Marc Googer

Briguy · #10 10-06-2002, 09:42 AM

A few more observations. Even if you are not allowed to "power on" your trailer, what prevents you from driving the boat on the trailer and letting momentum carry you forward. Another thought, on my bunk trailer I added 2 rollers for keel support. It REALLY helps when winching. Finally, why winch the boat up the last foot on the ramp? Hook it, drive up the ramp to a level surface and then crank in the final 12 inches. Good luck!