Hard Top

[strick]

Thanks for the comments. Both the Electronics box mold and the hard top mold were made with some 1/2 inch fiberboard. The hard top mold also has formica glued to the fiberboard. I beveled all corners and turns with microbubbles mixed with epoxy. I then coated the inside of the e-box mold with epoxy. As you can see from the pics I had to destroy e-box mold to get the unfinished product out. Probably because I did not use a releasing agent. I just put 3 coats of wax and buffed each coat. The sides freed ok but the corners and bottom would not work loose so I finally decided to just take apart the mold. Also I only put one coat of primer (Duratec EZ white Sanding Primer)on it which is why it looks blotchy. I'll sand and put on more primer later. I've been using epoxy 5/1 ratio that I've been getting from Fiberglass Hawaii. I like working with the 1708 biaxial except that it eats up the resin. On the hard top I ended up with a seam in the formica down the middle so I microbubbled over it and still was not happy with the seam so I decided to put a good coat of epoxy over the whole thing. I waxed the whole thing 3 times and buffed between each coat. Tomorrow I'm going to pop it off [img]images/icons/confused.gif[/img] hopfully. For the bottom of the hard top I'm going to sand/microbubble and then put two good coats of the white sanding primer over it. I've rolled or brushed everything. No spraying. For large layups like on the hard top just pour on the epoxy and spread with a large flat trowel. I learned from Trayder on this site about how to make the flat molding table. I've made a couple flat panels for practice and waxing without a releasing agent works well here.

abl111- I would make molds instead of layering over something. Yes it is a bitch but you will be happier in the end if done right.

EBEACH what does MDF stand for? I used 3/8 inch core cell for the core material. It's probably going to cost $500.00 when it's finished.

I really wanted a hard top like the one in the yellowfin pic however I could not find anyone that made anything like it. Price quotes I got for new hard tops are in the 1500-2000 range. Unfortunately we do not have a Marine liquidators in N. California or I probably would have just bought a hard top from them [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img] I'll post more pics when it's close to completion.

Strick

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Ha Strick
You are doing a great job on that boat of yours. Guys like you make me almost wish I was starting over again because of all the extra things and insights that are going into your boats. That boat looks like it will last 100 yrs after you are done.
FellowShip [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

[Ed]

Strick-

the top and electronic box look great. Excellent job. The only guy around here (Boston area) that makes a top comprabable to the one on that Yellowfin is Redman Marine Manufacturing in SACO, Maine (redmanmarinemanufacturing.com). His pipe work is unbelievable and he also integrates the e-box into the t-top. Prices start at $3700...ouch.

Try using PVA as a mold release agent if the mold release wax isn't working.

Great job!

-Ed-

[abl1111]

How do you post those pix that way ?

[Trayder]

strick-

Very nice work. what are your plans for the underside. Fill and fair, or are you doing the top in 2 pieces?

You have done more to that boat in 1 month than most of of have done to ours in 1 year!! [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

[abl1111]

Forgot to ask; you said that for the e-box, you used 1/2" fiber board. Did you use formica here too ? If not, how did you get the gelcoat/fiberglass to not stick to the fiber board ?

[John R]

Nice work Strick - but you are giving me too many ideas!

Ed - here is the site: http://www.redmanmarinefabricators.com/