Plywood core in hatches

[FELLOW-SHIP]

HA SCOTT
IF YOU TAKE ONE OF THOSE SQUARES AND PUT IT NEXT TO A PIECE OF ½ PLYWOOD YOU WILL SEE THE DIFFERENCE NOT ONLY IN THICKNESS BUT COUNT THE LAYERS OF THE WOOD LAMINATION OF BOTH PIECES IF I CAN REMEMBER CORRECTLY THERE IS ONE ADDITIONAL LAYER OF WOOD LAMINATION IN THE ½ PLYWOOD I DIDN’T MIND BUILDING UP THE DECK A LITTLE I WANTED A BULLET PROOF BOAT AND ½ “ DOES NOT GIVE EVEN WITH 2 OR 3 BEER DRINKING GUYS ALL STANDING SIDE BY SIDE.
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[hermco]

Scott,
I don't know the original thickness but it probably would not apply with todays measurements.Use what will work the best for the job at hand.I would use AC ply and the drilled hole trick will work fine as long as you weight the wood down good.Using a notched trowel to apply the putty will help also.

[Scott]

Thanks guys

I'll keep you informed of the result....

[Scott]

Need some help/guidance....

The 53" x 31" sheet of plywood to recore the fuel hatch......I put holes in it to allow the Fairing/bonding compound to ooze through and coated with resin.....

The 1/2" plywood has a slight cup or bow in it now (I even placed cinder blocks on it to stop it from cupping too much)....

Do I dare use this in the deck??? I'm concerned that it will cause the skin to either cup or have a crown in it ( depending on how I put the plywood in the skin...cup up or cup down ) I dont want to risk losing the skin...

[FELLOW-SHIP]

HA SCOTT
IT SOUNDS LIKE A JUDGMENT CALL ON YOUR PART ON THIS ONE. I JUNKED MY OLD SKIN’S THEY LOOKED TO BAD AND WASN’T WORTH SAVING. I HAVE HAD SOME CUPPING AS WELL BOTH ON THAT PIECE MINE IS ABOUT 8 ‘ LONG AND SAME AS YOURS WIDE AS WELL AS ONE BIG PIECE THAT COVERS ALL THE DECK FROM THE END OF THAT PIECE YOU ARE WORKING ON TO THE SPLASH WELL AREA. BOTH HAD SOME CUPPING. I USED TWO 2” X 2” 8 ‘ LONG FUR LAMINATED PIECES ON BOTH SIDES OF THE DECK ABOVE THE GAS TANK AND THEN 2 PIECES 31” IN THE FRONT AND BACK THAT PROVIDES A MUCH FIRMER LIP FOR ME TO DRILL AND SCREW 2” SCREWS TO SUPPORT AND HOLD DOWN MY NEW DECK. I TOOK THOSE 2” X 2” AND EPOXY, SCREWED AND THEN GLASSED THEM TO THE STRINGERS (BOTH SIDES) ABOVE THE GAS TANK I BUILT THEM UP TO BE EVEN WITH THE LITTLE LIP THAT WAS ON MY ORIGINAL DECK. I ALSO MAID TWO BULK HEADS IN FRONT AND BEHIND THE GAS TANK AND EPOXY, SCREWED AND GLASSED THE 31” 2” X 2” TO IT. WHAT I DID IS MAKE A BOX ABOVE THE GAS TANK FOR ADDED STRENGTH TO SUPPORT THAT DECK. I HOPE YOU ARE FOLLOWING ME I KNOW A PICTURE WOULD BE BETTER BUT I DON’T HAVE ONE TO SEND YOU RIGHT NOW. I HAVE BEEN BUILDING THIS BOAT BETTER THAN ORIGINAL AND IN THIS WAY THAT DECK IT REALLY VERY FIRM.
FELLOW-SHIP [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img]

[capesams]

SCOTT:

CUP up...all things sag in time. IT's the way the clowns store it at the yard these days. there to lazy to put a third sticker in the middle, so the whole pile sags in the middle they just don't care because there not the ones useing it. [img]images/icons/mad.gif[/img] P>S don't use ply with 3 layers it's crap. most good ply today is made with exterior glue anyway. the more layers, the stronger the ply.REG. underlayment used in homes today is the same as the marine ply, how do i know this .. a good friend spent his life makeing plywood. And i've spent a life time useing it. Hope this helps.................steve

[hermco]

Use the cut square method of adding a plywood core and you eliminate the problem of trying to use a solid sheet of warped or cupped ply.Or better yet use a foam core and you will be able to give the boat to your grand kids and they will give it to theirs. [img]images/icons/smile.gif[/img]
d.h.

[ April 25, 2002, 09:10 PM: Message edited by: HermCo ]