Thru hull scuppers ... How did ya fix em

SECF3114M73J · #1 03-02-2003, 11:52 PM

I've replaced my scuppers twice.A freind of mine who also owns a 23 ft'er is a plumber.He has a flaring tool made out of threaded rod, the piece that does the flaring is bell shaped. The tricky thing is that the hull where the bottom of the scupper is,is like a wedge, so the tube is not squarely seated. For brass tubes we used toilet stand pipes.The pipes come in 2 diameters, the bigger size is the one to use,don't remember but I think they are 3/4" dia. Be careful not to cut the tubes to long,if you do they will split when you flare them.

[ March 02, 2003, 10:55 PM: Message edited by: SECF3114M73J ]

Scott · #2 03-02-2003, 11:58 PM

Hi Jim

Well I have the tube from whaler and at the moment, in an attempt to get this thing in the water ASAP, I'm just replacing the scuppers as is (my original ones were brass.....) I still want to go out the hull sides or transom (instead of through the deck and bottom of the boat) but not until I know what I'm doing with the transom .... In other words .... No scupper changes this year

Miles Offshore · #3 03-05-2003, 11:10 PM

I knocked my through hull reverse clamshell rigs out of the scuppers in mine yesterday. The 5200 actually broke loose with not a whole lot of effort. The forward one in the fishboxI knocked out as well. Found that the hull was 3/4" thick and the circumfrence around where the fitting was was resined around it. Trying to find a local whaler dealer now to buy new tubes.

Standing Room Only · #4 03-06-2003, 12:09 AM

For mine, I used an oversized holesaw after clearing out the old. I used thinned epoxy in the hole to seal the edges. I then had patches of biaxial glass I soaked in epoxy, then placed them in the hole, tight with each preceding patch. You can build this up pretty quickly as the patches are doubled and it is not "too" expensive. After drying then used a 1/2" hole saw and cut out the center. Painted the inside with epoxy mixed with barrier cote. No more brass, and no chance of water intrusion to the new stern. Definetly overkill, but after redoing the transom -- didn't seem like too much.

Miles Offshore · #5 04-08-2003, 08:11 PM

Back again, I am thinking instead of brass tubes,etc i am going to do what standing room only describes only using West system and going straight thru the bottom of the hull. Here's how I think it can be done. Drill out an oversized hole thru around the present thru hull. Using duck tape on the bottom, also on the inside of the boat. Put a small hole in the duck tape on the inside injecting west system until the hole thru hull is full. (using plenty of the thickening fluff stuff)After curing for a few days , drilling out a hole the same size as the original so the expandable plug will still work. The whole diameter of the hole will be west system in with a nice border. What does everyone think or am I thinking foolishly here and should i just go with the brass tubes again ??? I plan on doing this the upcoming weekend (4/12-13). Thoughts, pros ,cons??? thanx-craig
(she's almost ready to go back in the drink,)

Finster · #6 04-09-2003, 07:01 PM

Miles I like it. I've thought about something simular.
I don't have any thing existing, so I thought I would use a paper towel tube instead. It still needs some thought on how to find center, but should be doable.

ocuyler · #7 04-09-2003, 09:14 PM

Miles,

We just finished painting the 23', inside and out. We filled every single hole, including through-transom with West. The only holes in the boat are the drain plug in the transom, 2 s/s bilge thru hulls and the s/s fuel vent.

I'll find out where the water likes to sit and put 2 holes directly into the bilge. The cockpit sole will have oversize drains and piped to the lowest point in the bilge. The transom looks too pretty to cut holes in.

Scott,

Good luck. Leaving for Hilton Head with the little Whaler and a couple of lite rods.

Otto

[ April 09, 2003, 08:16 PM: Message edited by: Otto Cuyler ]