Classic SeaCraft Community  

Go Back   Classic SeaCraft Community > General Discussion > Repairs/Mods.
FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-04-2002, 05:29 PM
John R John R is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Narragansett Bay
Posts: 1,374
Default Re: My bracket project

Ouch! [img]images/icons/tongue.gif[/img]

But a well detailed version of this project will be a great help to a lot of other people in addition to giving you something to smile about when you look back on it.

I am also very interested on hearing how the roll and tip process comes out on the transom and how many coats & hours it takes too...

Goos luck with the "project"
__________________
Surf and Boat fishing for
Striped Bass

http://striped-bass.com/images/sb_small180b.gif
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-11-2002, 10:34 PM
wildlifeone wildlifeone is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: charleston s.c.
Posts: 55
Default Re: My bracket project

I have a 23 1972 i/o conversion with a 2000 ficht 225. and an armstrong bracket that I recently put on myself. i had the same issue with the curve in the transom. dont worry when you tighten up on the bracket bolts evenly it will all come togther with not much of a gap. 5200 willmake it look grwat. The stern of the boat came up 1.5 inches with wide body bracket. I didnt see any great increase in speed.I cruise at 4000rpm/ 32mph.and wide open 5700/ 44mph.the only thing I might caution you on is the height of the bracket mounted on the transom.On mine I mounted it about 1 inch higher than the specs and I still run my motor almost in the top hole. good luck
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-12-2002, 09:42 AM
Tom Tom is offline
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 16
Default Re: My bracket project

Like the other good advice, you should get 1.5" of flotation with the bracket. The lower you mount it, the more of it will be in the water giving buoyancy - but you may run our of holes to be able to raise your engines to the right height. Do the math carefully!. For every 12" of setback, you can expect to mount 1" higher than if on the transom.

It would probably be best to fair, finish and complete the transom painting prior to mounting up the bracket. It will be easier to get a good job laying out the awgrip with it off. I am not envisioning why you have to wait for the bracket to be bolted up...is there an acess problem on the inside?

When you rig the engines, use the yamaha grey hose and female fittings for the transom and mount them close to the centerline - this will give you more "walking room" on either side of hte bracket. Mount the hydraulic lines directly under the rigging tubes - both should be as high as possible to prevent water getting in there.,.

I disagree on forcing the transom to conform to the bracket. The bracket will not bend. period. This means as you tighten up all the bolts, you are forcing the transom to bend, putting tension on one side, and compression on the other. Start jumping waves with point loads, and these non-static forces, along with the loads of the engine, and something will move and crack. Its like torquing the heads on a motor - do it wrong and bad things happen. the 5200 will not fill voids and let you tighten up against the hardened sealant. I have made this mistake once, and am currently having to live with the solution...So, spend a few more hourse fairing and sanding now and do the job right, like you know in the back of your head.... good luck!
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
All original content © 2003-2013 ClassicSeacraft