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#1
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Billybob. use 4200 in case you want to take it back out later. I am trying to remove one now that I put up in the forward hatch that I intended to use as a live well. I used a scoop with a ball valve on the inside the boat and 5200'd in place- believe me you dont need the little screws to keep it from turning. [img]images/icons/rolleyes.gif[/img] . The hold constantly fills up with water with no good way to remove it other than a 5 gallon bucket, but thats my problem. The higher dollar seacocks dont have the strainer built in, it is added on seperately.They ambettr quality than the ball valves though.I lvat thells thck eng at you can tighten down the strainer without any added reinforcement. Good luck,craig
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"Lifes too short to own an ugly boat" |
#2
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BB,
For your use a regular thruhull with a ballvlave would be fine. The secocks with the flange are for big holes in your boat. Seein as the SC hull is only 3/8 of an inch thick, this would be overkill. But if you want to install them correctly, you need to dry fit all the pieces, including the 3/4 marine grade plywood backing plate, then mark the holes on the flange. These are drilled all the thru the hull and recessed and 5200 n place then nuts and washers on the inside. I used the plate seacoks on my seawater intake on my big boat, for wash down and live well, just ball valves. Good luck, JW |
#3
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Hey JW, not trying to start an argument or anything but 3/8's of an inch thick??? Mine is at least an inch and if I remember correctly maybe 1 1/4". The seacock that is/was original on my boat did not have, nor need a backing plate. I guess the layup of mine is different but 3/8" sounds awful thin to me for the hull. craig
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"Lifes too short to own an ugly boat" |
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