20 Transom Rebuild

EP · #1 03-20-2003, 09:22 AM

On the sides and top I cut back to were there wasn't any rot but on the bottom by the drain plug it was rotted all the way. I dug what was rotted there and filled with epoxy. The rods have created that biscuit joint.

EP · #2 03-20-2003, 08:09 PM

Used alot of West System today and am very confident in my work that it is as strong as new. Thanks

EP · #3 03-21-2003, 10:44 PM

I have come to the conclusion that I am not going to use cloth in over the seam but use more west system to fair out what I have ground out. If anyone with good knowledge about this project would give me advice it would be great. I don't see how the cloth would add much strength to it as I have now filled the gap between the existing skin and cut off skin mending them back together. I am also taking into consideration the work it would take if I built up cloth then started fairing. I have seen it done with out the cloth but am just asking peoples opinion to make sure it is the right way to go. Sorry about my constant questions but I would rather ask first. Thanks Guys... Pictures to come

EBEACH · #4 03-21-2003, 11:22 PM

EP, First off, let me say that I'm no expert, but I will try to offer some advice on what I've learned and researched.

Your seam should be tapered back from the cut line at about a ratio of 10-12 to 1. That is to say if the fiberglass that you're repairing is 1/4" thick, you should grind the glass outward from the cut line 3" (12 x 1/4 = 3") on a taper. You must use fiberglass for the repair. It is the glass that is giving you strength, not the resin. Too much resin can be a bad thing.

It's also best if you can do your lay-up in one shot, if attaching fiberglass to fiberglass. Once the resin has passed it's peak "exotherm" state, any bonding thereafter is mechanical and not chemical.