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#1
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What about going over existing no skid? Do you need to sand it smooth first?
On mine I've done replairs and need to add the the deck. How will the new match up with the old?
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http://lecharters.com '76 23 SC CC I/O '86 20 Aquasport 200 '98 15 Boaton Whaler Dauntless There's more but w/e |
#2
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Guys,
We went with Sanitred non-slip and it's serious stuff. It's the same thing you find on concrete industrial floors. It's all rubber, can cover a multitude of sins and is really non-slip. It's a more agressive surface than Interlux, but it's a fishing boat. The white looks great and UV tough. 10 year guarantee. We'll see how it goes. You can order a sample kit to try it out.
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Otto And yes, I still believe in the four boat theory... |
#3
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You may also want to think about using gelcoat based nonskid. It can be rolled on in a variety of grits as well. My boat is 12 years old and the factory applied gelcoat nonskid is still in great shape. Just a thought
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#4
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I recently built a flats boat and spray painted it with Imron. I purchased a non-skid additive from the store, I believe there were micro-sheres. I added the appropriate dose per instructions but did not think it was enough, so I tripled the dose and sprayed it. The decks turned out great, probably the best thing on the boat. My decks were flat and void of any pre-existing surface, I'd think you might need to remove any existing non-skid before refinishing. With allitle taping, you can do get very professional looking results.
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#5
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I agree w/ Ed. I did a non-skid w/ gelcoat and Awlgrip's (US Paint) non-skid ' particle mix '. It worked great. Not to mention you can make it just about any color you want.
A couple of notes here. When you roll the resin on w/ a roller - don't go too thick. Typically, you add the non-skid particles to the cup of resin before applying the resin to the non-skid area. If the resin is rolled on too thick, these gritty particles may settle too 'low ', via gravity, in the applied resin lay-up, therefore not exposing enough grit for a nonskid surface. Instead, do two thin layers. Make sure you mix the container holding the resin and grit often to assure that the grit does not settle to the bottom of the container. You can also use a sugar /salt shaker to apply the coarse particles to the wetted out area. Hope this helps... |
#6
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Thanks Guys. I see alot of good ideas. I probably won't get to painting for another two weeks. I am still rebuilding the hatch hole. Original construction very poor. I think it was rushed on account the boat was originally built for running drugs!?. Any othe Whitewater/Seacraft owners out there on this site.
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May all your deadrise be variable. My 1973 SeaCraft 20SF Parker 2530 DVEC Boston Whaler 15 1984 |
#7
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Bryan A-
"The Other Tom" has a beautiful 25' Whitewater that he completely rebuilt. He can probably answer any questions you may have. Ed |
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