Transom is OUT - do preventive maintenance

ltdan · #1 06-10-2003, 10:54 AM

Sound's like thing's are going good for you Finster,just keep an eye on your stock level of your cold beverage of choice(michelob). don't want any slip up's there [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] .... I support the chainsaw theory [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] LT DAN

ocuyler · #2 06-10-2003, 11:31 PM

Quote:

I support the chainsaw theory

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">WAY too funny.

ocuyler · #3 06-10-2003, 11:42 PM

RingLeader,

Good to see you back here on classicseacraft.com. My comments were not about Mako guys, but about how bad we felt for him cutting corners, which, as I'm sure you've read on this forum, is a no no.

From what I've seen on your site, your "people" have got it together.

A Mako owner, a SeaCraft owner and a Contender owner walk into a bar....

RingLeader · #4 06-11-2003, 07:36 PM

Otto, I hear ya man. If you do it right the first time, it should be better than new when finished!

I thought for a while and couldn't think of a punch line for your joke above!

Ed · #5 06-11-2003, 08:24 PM

A Mako owner,a Seacraft owner and a Contender owner walk into a bar for some burgers and beers. After listening to their "tall" fish tales, the Mako owner walks out with a huge smile and a fat wallet while the Seacraft and Contender owners drown their sorrows about their high priced boats

Ok gents....before you jump all over me, remember it is just a JOKE and a new Mako isnt much less than a new Seacraft.

ABL111-

I am in the process of replacing all of my thru-hull fittings in the transom area. All are being seated with 5200 and the exposed wood epoxied. Some were plastic, some were bronze. In my experience, a lot of wet transoms are due to the usual unsealed transducer screws, etc....but I think a biggest culprit is always the swim ladder. Step on a new one and see how much it moves.....now add saltwater and time and even the best caulk job....the transom is still going to get wet. When I eventually redo my transom and raise it to 30 inches (it is solid as a rock now....knock on wood) I am scrapping the dopey swim ladder, and will make sure that all holes drilled through the new transom will be encapsulated with epoxy before any fittings, transducers or motors are bolted on.

abl1111 · #6 06-11-2003, 10:43 PM

Ed,

Thx for your input. I tell you, I don't really trust 5200 anymore than other sealants. I don't know why, but it seems to be as susceptable to leaking as any other silicone/caulking material - and is a P.I.T.A. to remove...

I would rather use silicone and reseal every (2) years... Even better, I like the epoxy idea. I read the West System fiberglass repair manual and these guys seem to have sealing figured out. It is a lot of up front work, but over the long haul it is probably worth it. It's just that silicone or 5200, over time, will fail. And the repurcussions of that ' failure ' can be a bitch...

RingLeader · #7 06-11-2003, 11:38 PM

Ed, Where you been? Good follow-up on the joke. Ditto the swim ladder. Its the culprit. Good call.

abl1111, silicone=junk - west system epoxy=good long term projection - 5200 is head and shoulders above any other sealant IMHO, except when trying to bond the stuff to starboard. I put my motor on with 5200 and when I went to take the motor off, I removed the 4 bolts and the motor didn't budge. I let the tension off of the hydraulic motor hoist and it stayed put!!! To finally get the motor free, I had to use that anti-bond stuff and it didn't penetrate all of the 5200. So in those areas where the anti-bond didn't reach the sealant took the gelcoat and the first layer of fiberglass off with it!!!