Anchor roller ?

abl1111 · #1 10-02-2003, 03:53 PM

I am thinking-out the install of my Horizon 600 windlass. What is the general concensus ( sounds like an oxy-moron ) regarding the best anchor roller for the 23' Seacraft ?

I would rather not have a pulpit, unless that is 'such a better way'. I have seen the straight stainless roller and the pivoting kind.

I'm looking for a few things:

Durability

I want the anchor fall EVERY time and come and lock every time.

I do not want the anchor to ever hit my hull.

Lastly, when the windlass and anchor roller are installed - what kind of add'l support, if any, did you install underneath ( i.e. sandwiching the deck )?

Thx,

Alan

TUGBOAT · #2 10-02-2003, 06:00 PM

OK I'm gonna leave this one along ! I was gonna mention like marry'ng an ol' Wench,But the Hull will probably still get Hit ! [img]images/icons/cool.gif[/img]

TarponTom · #3 10-02-2003, 08:34 PM

abl,
I used a pivoting anchor roller with my windlass set-up because I wanted to make sure it dropped every time. I don't really think I needed the pivoting model but its on there now! In some cases it may actually be harmful if the rear roller pivots too high it decreases the wrap on the gypsy giving you less pull. It probably depends on what kind of anchor you use and how heavy it is how easy it will drop. Most danforths will probably be fine. The only issue I have encountered is how crummy my line to chain splices are. I installed the windlass and roller with a 3/8" x 12" aluminum backing plate tieing both together inside the anchor locker. Its solid.

abl1111 · #4 10-03-2003, 07:01 PM

TT,

Do you think a regular anchor roller would work as well ? I just went fishing on a buddy's 23 Chris Cr. Lancer and he has the hinged anchor roller. It works well - although it did get jammed once ( my buddy said he needs to get a swivel for the anchor chain to avoid the chain getting kinked from time to time thus jumping the rear-most roller ). It's tough to see the anchor line when the anchor is down too - is that an issue ? Pls note: I have "0" experience w/ a windlass. I have always been on the deck doing the nasty. However, as you know the Sceptre/Tsunami's access to the deck is limited.

How did you drill the holes in the deck and aluminum and have it all match-up when installed ? The aluminum is doing the job ? I was thinking of (2) 3/4" pcs of ply 'glued' together, but alum. seems like a better idea.

Alan

TarponTom · #5 10-03-2003, 07:32 PM

abl,
Yeah, if I were doing it over I would buy just a solid anchor roller. If I c-clamp mine together to essentially make it one piece the anchor drops fine and I am using a Fortress aluminum anchor now so a galvanized steel would be even better. As for the installation, I laid out everything on the bow deck like I wanted it and drilled the holes through into the anchor locker. Then propped-up the aluminum plate inside the locker with a 2X4 to hold it tight against the inside deck and marked it through the drilled holes. I'll tell you, I'm 6'3" with some long arms and its a stretch to get to the nuts at the far end of the roller bracket. I took off the wood molding around the locker door and gained a couple inches of room. Make sure you check for wasp nests also, I didn't.

TarponTom · #6 10-03-2003, 07:33 PM

abl,
Yeah, if I were doing it over I would buy just a solid anchor roller. If I c-clamp mine together to essentially make it one piece the anchor drops fine and I am using a Fortress aluminum anchor now so a galvanized steel would be even better. As for the installation, I laid out everything on the bow deck like I wanted it and drilled the holes through into the anchor locker. Then propped-up the aluminum plate inside the locker with a 2X4 to hold it tight against the inside deck and marked it through the drilled holes. I'll tell you, I'm 6'3" with some long arms and its a stretch to get to the nuts at the far end of the roller bracket. I took off the wood molding around the locker door and gained a couple inches of room. Make sure you check for wasp nests also, I didn't.