Trayder or anyone else, I need your help

[EBEACH]

I was hoping you or anyone else out there could help me with a few questions. I’ll be using your project as an example because it seems to be the most invasive of all the projects on the site.

I’m guessing that the new deck will be higher than the old deck by about 2-3”. The old deck was placed on top of the stringers and your new boxed stringers appear to be about 2-3” above that.(?) How will this impact the installation of the new deck and new or old liner?

Why did you decide to go with the box stringers/bulkheads as opposed to grinding out the old stringers and replacing them?

I've got several more questions, but wanted to start with this

Thanks, Jim

[AlexT]

That's a great question and one that I wondered about while looking at the in-progress questions. Trayder, looks like you might also be foregoing the bow platform for a level deck all around (which is actually my preference).

I'm assuming that since the stringer system is a bonded plywood box construction, it was easier to mount the new stringers over the old and just foam them in.

Another question for Trayder: did you save the sides of the liner, and are you going to use them when you rebuild, or are you nixing the liner keeping the sides open?

[Trayder]

Sorry for the delay in responding-

My hull, a 1968, has different stringers than any 20CC built after 1969. There is a reason for this [img]images/icons/wink.gif[/img] . The stringers in the early hulls of the 20's, only 10 or so were made with a different design as those built after 1969. I do not know specifics but if your look at the pictures on the main site with my project you can clearly see they failed.

As for box stringers no rhyme or reason just seems to be functional and strong. To be honest with you all the new structural design of my 20 is a mimic of my 25 Contender. I am literally making a 20 ft verion of my Contender.

I have raised the deck, probably 3.5 inches and will be going with a level deck.

I cut, using a skill saw, the inner liner out 4 inches below the top deck cap all the way around and threw out the remaining inner linner and deck in the dump.

The new deck will be tabbed into the inner sides of the hull and there are now many more structural supports under this new deck and running up the inner sides of the hull.

Essentially I turned a two piece boat, hull and inner liner into a 3 piece boat, hull, deck and upper deck cap. I am still in the midsts of plumbing and wiring while there is no deck and have may feats ahead.

Feel free to ask any ?'s I will do my best to answer.

Jason

[EBEACH]

Trayder,

Thanks for the info. Well by attaching the deck to the hull, that should keep the water out at the sides, but how are you going to eliminate water intrusion below deck through access panels and ‘through deck’ attachments?

Thanks, Jim

[Mark]

One other question: with raising the floor 3.5", is that constant from bow to stern? or did you raise it slightly more in the bow area for fore-to-aft drainage? (or put another way, is it 3.5" higher than original in ALL areas?).
Thanks/
mark

[Trayder]

E-Beach-

Yes, There will be a large bilge aft one in-deck live well aft and one forward, The rest of the spaces will be foam filled. There is a drain that runs the centerline of the hull and drains all compartments into the bilge.

Mark-

Yes a very slight pitch, with the engine off the stern there will be a natural pitch due to weight also, I hope.

[EBEACH]

Trayder,

Did you purchase the engine bracket yet? If not, what are you going to do if the mounting hole(s)ends up falling right on one of the stringers?

If you got one, what did you get?

[Trayder]

Hello EBEACH-

I have scrapped the engine bracket idea. Would I go with it I would have gone with the SeaMark bracket and because it is all glass you can determaine your own mounting holes avoiding the stringer issues not to mention it was designed by one of the original builders of our boats.

I scrapped the idea because with a bracket the boat would not fit in my garage. I also did not want to spend aditional thousands on the boat as this project is already costing a bunch.

I went all out on the decking material, Nida-Core, and that stung a bit.

I will not have a standard cut out transom. My plan is to construct an engine shroud that will be on a piano hinge to a newly created splash well. When done I am hoping it will resemble the transom on this Conch 27:

[Reel Smoker]

I like the cover over the motor idea it looks good,serves as a table and quites down the engine noise.Alot of charter boats especially all Conchs here in KW have the shroud cover.I'm looking for a project 18 or 20 that I can set up like this, If any one heres of one let me know, thanks.RS.