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#1
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I am looking to re gel-coat my 20 cc to get it back to like new whiteness. just wondering where to start and what kind of equipment to use
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#2
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Im in the same boat. I am removing the bottom paint and finding blisters. So after I repair the blisters, I want to re-gelcoat. My 23 is trailered so I dont think paint will hold up. Of course this depends on the cost. Any thoughts??
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#3
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I repair boats for a living, and this is the most common phone call we get. People with old, gelcoat finishes want to restore or redo their existing, faded finish to "like new". To regelcoat a surface, you must repair any crazing or cracking (which is a whole other subject), sand the whole surface to 80-120 grit without making the surface unfair, fill any last minute divots, holes, pinholes, lows, or whatever, and then reapply the gelcoat with spray equipment. You cannot roll or brush apply, it is a total waste of time. We typically spray on a thinned (lacquer thinner and Duratec) coat without wax, let that tack off and fill any visible pinholes, then spray on 3-4 more coats of the same mixture, putting wax in the last coat so that it is not tacky when it kicks. This will give you a textured surface when it is hard, that then must be sanded to at least 600 grit, and preferably 1000 and buffed a minimum of 2 times. Assuming a good spray job, you may be able to start with 220 or 320 grit, and you must sand smooth, change grits and repeat up to final grit. We use Dykum, a machinist dye to color the surface, so you can tell when all of the last grit scratches are removed, dying with each grit change. If you leave coarse grit scratches in the surface, it will yellow after a short time. After sanding you buff like crazy and then you are done.
This is a huge job for even a 20' hull, 60 hours if you really know your stuff and have good equipment. It is the best solution, however, so the work is worth it if you are willing! Another solution is to get boatbuilding qualtity buffing compounds and really do a nice job buffing out your old finish. YOu can get very surprising results if the gel is in good shape overall, just faded. We use Aquabuff 1000 and 2000 to do this type of work. Good luck, Peter |
#4
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well sounds like a lot of work for a novice, but i am willing to do the work.
a few questions should I get someone to do it or do it myself(total novice about fiberglass) where can i get the equipment/materials for a re gelcoat or the buffing compounds? what do you usually charge for a re gelcoat? and do you know of anyone/recommend anyone in the eastern north carolina area thanks, meads910 |
#5
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My .02:
Alarie has the right idea. My 23' hull was in good shape but VERY faded ( white color )! So, I sanded the entire hull w/ an electric D/A with 600 grit paper. Then w/ 800 grit paper until it was as smooth as a 'baby's bottom'. Then, I compounded the hull 2X w/ a very good commercial wheel, and a 3M compound - putting some muscle on the wheel. Then compounded w/ 3M " Finesse-It " for the a very fine polish. I was blown away by the results ! Looks brand new ! And, I am a total amateur taking advice from pro's. However, I did not have any cosmetic work to do here. If I had minimal work, I would repair, gelcoat, blend and do what I did. If it is more than a little, I would do exactly what Alarie said - I actually like the idea of spraying w/ a dye to see that you get all the sanding marks out. GREAT idea - next time... Oooh, did I say next time - someone slap me !!! |
#6
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If you are a novice, then you probably need some help. At a minimum you will need to find someone good to do the spray work, assuming you can do the prep and post finishing. I would find someone willing to work with you before you begin, as many professionals will balk at only doing half the job, and if you find someone, they will probably offer guidance on what level of prep they want and how to do it.
If we were doing a job like this, we would charge about $3000 for the cosmetic work, and additionally for any repairs that were needed before finishing. Good luck! Peter |
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