#1
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Question for Trayder or anyone else
I found some rot around the inspection hatch for the sending unit of the fuel tank - I am replacing the deck next year (raised etc) but have taken out the rotten section already to prepare for this season. When removing the upper skin, it cracked and in fact cannot be reused to to the bad shape of the area around the inpection hatch. I am going to repaint the deck anyway thus do not need Gel coat. The question I have is when using the molding table, if one does not use Gel coat and simply uses Epoxy - does the mold release wax still work? I am going to rebuild the upper skin with core then cut the new hatch and replace the area I removed - then fair the area and repaint to match the rest of the deck with the existing non skid etc. I just dont want to go the route of mold release wax only to find out it wont work !
Many thanks in advance MKG |
#2
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Re: Question for Trayder or anyone else
Mold release will work be sure to coat 4-5 times and buff inbetween coats.
Strick has much much much more experience with this technique and unlike myself has done it with epoxy. I have only used poly. you should be fine good luck |
#3
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Re: Question for Trayder or anyone else
As Trayder says, you will have no problems with epoxy coming off a waxed surface, especially if the table is smooth. We do this all the time with quick molds, some of them just wood covered with packing tape and a coat of wax! If you are at all nervous, you can leave the last coat of wax on the surface, unbuffed, and it will pop right off. Let the epoxy reach full cure (10-12 hours at 65 deg for West) before you try to release; for some reason it is harder to release a partially cured part...
Good luck, Peter |
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