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#1
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Alan
I think Roger has the right idea. I have some schedule 80 PVC pipe that is 2 3/8"OD / 1 13/16" ID / 1/4" thick. This could be cut too length and then split in two like a "C" and mounted inside the seat base. (1/4" is thick enough to counter sink a flat head bolt with a thin washer) If you can't find some I'll mail it to you? Otherwise it sounds like you're a good candidate for the Dania Flea Market in search of new seat bases, which would be cheaper than the pedestals [img]/images/graemlins/wink.gif[/img] Good Luck Compadre' [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]
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![]() ![]() 1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#2
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![]() Hmm. So cut a 2 3/8" pc of PVC to length and then in half (2-C's). Then mount them to the pedestal. Would that leave (2) gaps between the two pcs of mounted PVC ? Would those gaps affect the swiveling? Do you know how I might do this w/ aluminum tube instead of PVC? Lastly, I do not know that It wiould be easy to find a base w/ the 2 3/8" receptacle. It was an older style I think, and an older style base may not fit to the new seat mounting configuration?. ? |
#3
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I had the same problem with mine and finally just bought new pedestals. A metal shop might have the aluminum tube that you could make sleeves but what would keep them from sliding down out of the base? The nylon ones that come from the manufacturer have caps on them. Unfortunately one of the many hurdles to boat restoration---obsolete parts. [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]
Don't know where I saw this but its the truth. B--break O--out A--another T--thousand |
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