Trailer tongue weight ?

[abl1111]

I have a 1975, 23' Tsunami w/ a 5.7 litre I/O w/ Bravo 3. 75 gallons of fuel and maybe 200 lbs of add'l gear-

My float-on, bunk trailer needs to be adjusted. It is a mid 80's, I-beam, Rocket trailer that has seen better days but works for what I need ( 2x a year )

It is a tandem rig w/ the ability to adjust axles forward or back. The rear tires seem over weighted, and she fishtales a bit - even though some crazy Floridians drove her up to me in NY a few years ago that way, I would not go more than the 2-3 miles I need to.

What is the tongue weight supposed to be, and how many inches back, roughly, will equate to the neccessary adjustment ?

Also, I need a supplier for a galvy, 2x4 trailer tongue - no one seems to have this odd size. It has to be 2x4.

Thx

[ocuyler]

Let's say your boat, trailer and extras weights 5,000 pounds. The answer lies between 7 and 10 percent of that or 350 to 500 pounds. Since 500 pounds is generally the max for most hitch set-ups and is just plain alot of weight on the back of your truck, I would start with around 350 to 400 pounds. You'll have to make incremental adjustments.

You may be able to move the boat on the trailer, but be sure the ends of the bunks go all the way to fully support the transom. Further, the ball should be set so the trailer is exactly level and the truck should have moderate rear spring deflection. Atest drive is the best way to really feel good about it. If you're bringing her up to Trader's this summer, you'll want to be confident...

[PipeDreamsMarine]

Interesting reply Otto. Good advice but you left out a few key details. The 350lbs sounds about right for the tongue weight. If you don't have a tongue scale get a few buddies and use this method. Measure the height of the top of your truck bed to the ground, then have two guys (about 350 pounds) stand on the bumper by the hitch.. remeasure the bed height and note the change. First I'd make sure the boat is on the trailer in the right place. Bunks should be right even with the stern and rollers about 2" in. Then I would move the axles back 12" to start, hook the boat to the truck and check the bed height to the weighted height, slide the axles forward or back to get the right bed height. Once your close to the weighted bed height, lock down the axles. Next step.. and the most important step. Measure from the ground to the underside of the trailer frame BETWEEN the axles. Take that measurement and go to the tongue of the trailer. The underside of the tongue(which should be on the same level as the frame rails) needs to be the same height as the underside of the frame rails between the axles. Undo the ball coupler and jack or lower the tongue until these two numbers are the same. If it's higher or lower I'll need to get the same "raise or drop" to match the trailer. Drawtite and Reese make a few different sizes of inserts that will fit into your reciever. The tongue weight is important but tongue height will make or break you. The right tongue height will make sure the trailer tracks right and the load is equal on all four tires.

[Sleeto]

Don,

Where should the aft end of the bunks be with a bracket?

Thanks
Paul

[ocuyler]

Don - thanks for expanding on this kind-of-complicated issue. I agree with your comments.

The bracket thing is interesting. I think the bunks would be the same (supporting the transom), but it seems that with all that weight out there, additional support would be appropriate. I like to use a "transom saver", but with a bracket, you can't get an angle back to the trailer. I could see a case for a custom bunk trailer with extentions for the bracket. I wonder if Capt. Chuck has any thoughts on this now that he'll be trailering with a bracket.

[Fr. Frank]

Since the transom bracket is supported by the transom, the transom needs to be supported by the bunks. No additional support for the bracket is needed if the bracket is properly installed. The stress of your engine against the transom bracket and transom while under power is greater than that of the bouncing and jouncing of trailering. Transom savers are good not only for the transom, but even more so for your hydraulics. There are several products which will take the trailering weight of your engine off of the hydraulic system and transfer that stress to tom.he transom bracket and trans

[TUGBOAT]

All the above & Here is a photo that will show how to correctly check the weight.I have a little more weight on the tongue.It puts more pressure on the rear wheels which keeps them from spinning/loosing traction at low tide at the ramp.The closer the wheels are to the tow vehicle the more fish tail , also the lower the tongue(angle)I'm posting & don't remember Tangem/Single?
Scream'n Reels' [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

[abl1111]

Thank you for all your advice. I will check everything before I put her in, so I know that all is right.

I know I only go a few miles with her 2x a year, but I that fish-tail feeling is unnerving nonetheless.

Thx again.

Alan