#11
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Re: Loose center console
Scott nailed it on the 5200 vs. 4200 thing. [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
You said above that you have room to access the underside of your deck, right? So, drill the holes out and fill them with thickened epoxy. Then redrill and thru bolt the console and use large fender washers on the underside of the deck and lock nuts w/ the nylon inserts (seal each screw/bolt w/ 4200). Then run a bead of 4200 around the base to seal it off.
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Brian 1981 Mako 17 |
#12
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Re: Loose center console
Here's where I'm at,Ihave the console proped up and have looked at all the holes.About 90% are in tough shape.They got a little damp last sunday in the rain.I took a nail and bent over the tip and cut the head off and used it as a drill to scrape out the holes and under the deck.I have 2 aluminum plates 3" x7" to catch the back corners of the console as a backing plate.I need to cut in a circular access hatch in front of the console to get at the two front corners which will also have 2 plates put in.I have to wait for the holes to dry a little before filling them.then I will do all the 4200 stuff as needed.The problem is the T-top is mounted to the console only and not to the floor which creates a lot of stress on the console and the screws holding it down.
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#13
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Re: Loose center console
Here is how I had the consel attached to my last boat. You wont get it any stronger then this. However I realize that this method is not going to work in every boat because the consel must allign up close to the stringers under the deck. There are L brackets bolted to the consel/floor and stringers. Sorry for the big picture I still have not figured out how to edit them smaller [img]/images/graemlins/mad.gif[/img]
Strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
#14
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Re: Loose center console
Quote:
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Brian 1981 Mako 17 |
#15
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Re: Loose center console - Screw Size???
What size screws (lenth & width) are most of you using to hold your conventional consoles onto the deck of your 23' SF's?
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http://i113.photobucket.com/albums/n...iseacraft3.jpg |
#16
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Re: Loose center console - Screw Size???
my console is glassed to the floor - no wiggle at all [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
kind of hard to describe short of drawing a photo like Strick did, but here is a photo of two "ribs" glassed to my floor that are about 2" tall. They are right at the inner width of the console running the length (fore-to-aft) on both the port and starboard side of the console. The console is then glassed to these ribs from the inside. If/when the console needs to come off, you only have to cut along where the mat transitions from the top of these little ribs to where the mat makes contact with the console and not into the floor. No screws to back out, no rust concerns, etc. After the console was glassed down, a thin bead of 5200 was run along the entire outer perimeter where the console meets the floor just like you'd calk a bathtub. Not right for everyone, but I went though the loose-screw issue with my last SeaCraft and didn't want to go down that road again. Metal and saltwater don't react too well, so this time around, no screws holding the console to the floor - I just wish there was a way of glassing the t-top to the floor! This also makes for a fairly clean appearance at the base of the console: |
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