Transom replacement??? - Page 2

ocuyler · #11 10-20-2005, 05:39 PM

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Thanks, you guys are the best. I know of no other website except maybe classic miko site that has this great kind of knowlage. I go to a lot of boat making sites too.

Wait till you get our bill...

Finster · #12 10-20-2005, 05:48 PM

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Putting in a transom ain't no big deal.

Then why do you keep hassling Patton to help you out tough guy? [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

Cause I need a second pair of hands putting in the core. Ya punk! [img]/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

BigMike8o9 · #13 10-21-2005, 01:44 PM

Scott sent me some good info off line that was appropriate to post on the thread.
I will be checking out the potter bracket from Hermco. Has anyone put one on by themselves? Any feed back?

FELLOW-SHIP · #14 10-21-2005, 05:28 PM

I thought you guys would like this little thread I ran into today regarding transoms I don’t know these guys but Sh** happens.

http://www.myfishingpictures.com/img/078027.jpg
Friend of mine just sent me this photo of a 1989 Grady White that was repowered with brand new F225s a few days ago. They took the rig out for a sea trial and after about 2 hours the motors made for the bottom of the Pacific Ocean somewhere a few miles west of Los Suenos in Costa Rica. Appears that the transom was rotten and everyone is now pointing fingers at someone else. Repower there cost $38,000.00. I do not have any further facts.

FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

hermco · #15 10-21-2005, 05:40 PM

I disagree. The use of a bracket will spread the load bearing area and stiffen the transom. Is a fact,not just my opinion. [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

TUGBOAT · #16 10-21-2005, 05:48 PM

One of those "Coulda' been worse " Deals. [img]/images/graemlins/cool.gif[/img]

warthog5 · #17 10-22-2005, 10:59 AM

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I disagree. The use of a bracket will spread the load bearing area and stiffen the transom. Is a fact,not just my opinion. [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img]

My brother say's the exact same thing and he's a mechanical engineer w/ a PE. [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]

BigMike8o9 · #18 10-22-2005, 10:03 PM

I know that the bracket is better and going to stffen the transom if attached well, my reason for distributing the load to the stringers is because I have a longer and rougher trip to the ocean then you guys.
A trailer boncing the motor up and down on a bracket pulls away from the hull. The bolts will compress the wood and become loose. That's why I plan to ad on some wood and braces up the hull on the stringer and ad the knees because the deck will be cut down to get rid of the outboard well. It's small not like the big ones some of you have, about six inches. But still it will support the deck and I will create a flush below the deck cross brace. Then a flush hatch and I get a little more fishing room. That's my guess anyhow...

Finster · #19 10-22-2005, 10:39 PM

BigMike, IMO redo the the transom, and instead of using 3/4" or 1/2" ply use 1/4" or 3/8" and put two layers of mat in between. The more glass you get in there the stronger it will be. The transom will then be bullet proof.

BTW, the knees won't help you any. If you have excessive flex they'll give.

BigMike8o9 · #20 10-23-2005, 02:24 PM

I was wonderin about that. If I did I would bag it on the table first. Then install it. Double bullet proof.